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  1. #1
    Senior Member Desertnate's Avatar
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    CanCoat Application Problems

    This weekend I finally got around to applying CanCoat to one of my vehicles. While I am quite happy with how the car looks now, getting to the end result was a long and painful process. Before I write off the product and move on to something else, I want to make sure I didn't get a bad car, or I made a major mistake in the application.

    A few details to start:
    - Car was clayed, polished and given a generous wipedown with Gyeon Prep
    - Application was in my garage with the door closed
    - Temps were in the upper 70's/low 80's and humidity was probably around 30~40%
    - I used both a low knap MF towel and a MF applicator pad (more on that below)

    Problems encountered:
    - Can was only about .5 full. Is that normal?
    - Product flashed almost immediatly on application to the paint
    - Even when applied very heavy, removal was diffucult due to the extreamly rapid flashing of the product
    - Overspray was EVERYWHERE

    I started by using a low knap MF towel and spraying it on the towel as shown in all the video's for this product. However, it soon became apparent the CanCoat is so spread out on the towel, it flashes instantly as your spreading it with no opportunity to make a second pass to even things out. I found with a soft, MF applicator pad it was easier to apply the product more heavily and I also had better control of the where the product was being applied. Even at this point, if I attempted an area larger than 6" square the CanCoat flashed so fast it became almost impossible to buff in the time it took me to set down my applicator and grab my buffing towel hanging over my shoulder. Any high spots were un-removable as soon as you found them. Even when applying to a 6" square application area, the product was clingy and hard to remove/buff out. Often it would spread beyond the area applied and due to being thinned out by the removal process it would flash and harden almost instantly.

    Despite being in a sheltered area, there was overspray everywhere! I found I had to take a step or two back from the car to spray product onto the applicator, as turning away from the car and spraying in the opposite direction still left an atomized cloud which would drift over to the vehicle. My windshield is covered in overspray this moring which I'll have to polish out...despite standing away from the front bumper when spraying the applicator while I worked on the hood.

    The one application method which I found worked really well was when spot fixing areas I had to polish out. I'd dab the CanCoat on my MF towel like you do with traditional bottled coatings. This heavy ammount of product on the applicator spread easy and didn't flash very quickly. The down side to this process would be a single can would only last one, maybe two small vehicles based on what I recieved. There is no way I'd get through 5~6 cars since there was so little in the can to start with.

    I've applied the original BlackFire Paint Coating, McKee's 37 paint coating multiple times and have applied CQuartz and CQuartz UK, so this wasn't my first coating. The McKee's and CQuartz's were very easy and very fast. With the CanCoat I spent hours chasing streaks, overspray, and unremovable high-spots which had to be polished out and product re-applied due to the working time of the product being almost non-existant.

    After all the rave reviews of CanCoat, how did my application go so wrong? Is there some glaring flaw in my approach? I was hoping this product would make coating my cars fast and easy every six months, but at this point I found traditional coatings easier.

    On a high note, after 20-ish hours of cure time it looked AMAZING when I brough it out into the sun for a drive. I'm curious to see the water behavior now.

    Any feedback is appreciated.
    Save the Manuals!!

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  3. #2
    Member Chopper280's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    I got some CanCoat a few weeks ago but haven’t tried it yet.
    After reading your post I went out in the garage and checked the contents of the can. It is pretty much full.
    I am really interested to read posts on this as well.

  4. #3
    Senior Member Don M's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    I'm going to be watching this thread with interest as I am planning on getting CanCoat for my Camaro and I have a customer who is very interested in having it done to her Honda Civic (black) after I showed her a video of the coating in action after a few months. I too will be working in a closed garage (at least on my Camaro) and our temps have been in the 70's and 80's with mild to moderate humidity.
    Don M
    2013 Camaro LS
    323HP 6-Speed

  5. #4
    Senior Member TTQ B4U's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Desertnate View Post
    This weekend I finally got around to applying CanCoat to one of my vehicles. While I am quite happy with how the car looks now, getting to the end result was a long and painful process. Before I write off the product and move on to something else, I want to make sure I didn't get a bad car, or I made a major mistake in the application.
    I'll chime in to help as I've done 5 vehicles and like the product enough to have two more cans in my cabinet.

    - I used both a low knap MF towel and a MF applicator pad (more on that below)

    Problems encountered:
    - Can was only about .5 full. Is that normal?
    - Product flashed almost immediatly on application to the paint
    - Even when applied very heavy, removal was diffucult due to the extreamly rapid flashing of the product
    - Overspray was EVERYWHERE
    In terms of MF, I use low profile knap 170gsm Eagle Edge-less towels for my application. I fold them into 1/4's and spray on one side, wipe and buff, then flip and buff. I switch them out often....like every 1-2 panels depending on size. I also immediately drop them in a solution to keep them from hardening...as this product will cause them to be junk if you don't.

    Flashing wise, that's normal. Don't use too much product. A little goes a long way and if anything, just overlap some areas a second time as you move to the next. Go light on sprays though. I usually do 2-3 but never more. Any more and yes, you will have difficulty removing. I made that McSteak once early on. Just understand that the final buff should feel smooth and not at all grippy. If so, you have too much product on. ALWAYS spray away from the vehicle and do so in a closed environment with no wind. I will say that what I've done in my garage is keep my standing fan on low blowing perpendicular to where I am standing. No breeze can be felt it's so low and at 15ft away but it's enough to ensure ZERO overspray will hit the vehicle.

    I started by using a low knap MF towel and spraying it on the towel as shown in all the video's for this product. However, it soon became apparent the CanCoat is so spread out on the towel, it flashes instantly as your spreading it with no opportunity to make a second pass to even things out. I found with a soft, MF applicator pad it was easier to apply the product more heavily and I also had better control of the where the product was being applied.
    The only thing I can say is that the MF Pad is likely not good as this is the type of product you have to spread so thin and then immediately buff that a pad won't allow either to happen. Spray one side of the rag, wipe it around, then begin buffing with that same side facing the car until it's smoooooth and slicker than initially felt. Then flip the rag and give a few more buffs to make sure it's flawless. I hope that technique makes sense.

    Even at this point, if I attempted an area larger than 6" square the CanCoat flashed so fast it became almost impossible to buff in the time it took me to set down my applicator and grab my buffing towel hanging over my shoulder. Any high spots were un-removable as soon as you found them. Even when applying to a 6" square application area, the product was clingy and hard to remove/buff out. Often it would spread beyond the area applied and due to being thinned out by the removal process it would flash and harden almost instantly.
    Hmmm....again, not being overly critical, because I wasn't there, but I suspect it's due to there being a lot of product. I usually do a 2x2 area and move on but agree that you must move quickly. Here too....swap rags every 1-2 panels. That MF Pad that you were referencing won't work...you have to spray, wipe, buff then flip and buff and then move to a fresh rag.

    Despite being in a sheltered area, there was overspray everywhere! I found I had to take a step or two back from the car to spray product onto the applicator, as turning away from the car and spraying in the opposite direction still left an atomized cloud which would drift over to the vehicle. My windshield is covered in over spray this morning which I'll have to polish out...despite standing away from the front bumper when spraying the applicator while I worked on the hood.
    Agree that over spray will be an issue if you aren't careful. I cup my rag when spraying it and do so 3ft from the car minimum. Usually 1-2 steps back from it down-wind for sure. Ironically, I use it on my glass (NEVER windshields though) all the time. The hydrophobic properties on glass are awesome on sides and back windows so long as they don't have a wiper.
    The one application method which I found worked really well was when spot fixing areas I had to polish out. I'd dab the CanCoat on my MF towel like you do with traditional bottled coatings. This heavy ammount of product on the applicator spread easy and didn't flash very quickly. The down side to this process would be a single can would only last one, maybe two small vehicles based on what I recieved. There is no way I'd get through 5~6 cars since there was so little in the can to start with.
    Can't comment on that technique but I would suggest trying it again on a couple panels using the technique I shared above. I got 5-6 cars out of one can. My biggest GRIPE is the sprayers clog too easily even when flushed out with solvents to clear them.

    On a high note, after 20-ish hours of cure time it looked AMAZING when I brough it out into the sun for a drive. I'm curious to see the water behavior now.
    Any feedback is appreciated.
    Good to hear. It's still on my Infiniti and I must say, it does look like glass. The water properties are 2nd only to their Syncro Product and even there, it's close. Hope my feedback proves helpful.

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  7. #5
    Member Jeff at Gyeon's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    Hey Guys!

    Glad to jump in and offer some advice. Great response above which covers much of it.

    CanCoat is very different in design from other coatings. It is not meant to be applied heavy and it is not meant to let dwell on the paint.

    There are 200 ml in each bottle which does not fill it all the way to the top. I'd say 3/4 or so.

    To avoid the over spray, cup the sprayer a bit with the towel. Spray away from the car. I learned this lesson the hard way as well the first time using it. But cupping the sprayer and not letting the product sit in the air where it can be easily wafted on to the surface solves this completely.

    Less is more. I typically use 2 sprays in to the microfiber towel and work it in to a shoulder width area. The key is to keep the product moving over the surface and not let it sit. With 3-4 cross passes with a pretty fast hand speed over an area you are allowing the solvent to evaporate quickly and easily. You should see 90% of the product flashed and removed in these first 3-4 passes. I keep a second microfiber next to me to pick up the last 10% of product. I keep a hand held light pointed at the install area the whole time so I can watch the distortion and see if I need to back off on amount, knowing exactly how much excess product is on the surface and when I am done removing by no longer seeing any bend or distortion in the light.

    The goal of this product is to be fast and easy. So I don't recommend using a traditional foam/suede applicator and applying in the way you would a coating like ONE, PURE, or MOHS. CanCoat is meant to be wiped across the surface quickly with a fast acting solvent. Leaving it on the surface for 30-60 seconds like you would the others will make it tacky and hard to remove. You should be able to get around a car in 30 mins with CanCoat.

    Also, rinse the heck out of the sprayer when finished and store it with the metal cap back in place. I usually fill the sink with some warm soapy water and just squirt it through the submerged sprayer. Otherwise that thing will be a solid brick next time around.

    Summary:
    - Cup sprayer to control over spray
    - 2 sprays directly on to the microfiber
    - work in to the panel quickly, 3-4 cross passes with a quick hand speed to keep product moving and allow the solvent to evaporate
    - secondary microfiber to pick up any remaining product
    - use a hand held light to look for distortion which will show you excess product on the surface

    Glad to answer any other questions!

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  9. #6
    Senior Member Desertnate's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    Thank you very much for taking the time for a thorough response!

    Quote Originally Posted by TTQ B4U View Post

    Go light on sprays though. I usually do 2-3 but never more. Any more and yes, you will have difficulty removing. I made that McSteak once early on. Just understand that the final buff should feel smooth and not at all grippy...
    This is the way I started, however when it was that thin, it streaked really bad and dried almost instantly as I did the initial wipe. This lead me to apply it heavier in order to lengthen the working time a bit. At no point in the application, regardless ammount was it smooth

    ...Spray one side of the rag, wipe it around, then begin buffing with that same side facing the car until it's smoooooth and slicker than initially felt. Then flip the rag and give a few more buffs to make sure it's flawless. I hope that technique makes sense.
    Thanks. The technique makes total sense. I started with a MF towel before trying the applicator. When doing .5 of a car door and 2~3 spritzes on the towel, the product had already flashed during the initial spread and the initial buff (before the flip) was grabby and created smears. Was I still using too much or moving too slow?

    Hmmm....again, not being overly critical, because I wasn't there, but I suspect it's due to there being a lot of product. I usually do a 2x2 area and move on but agree that you must move quickly. Here too....swap rags every 1-2 panels. That MF Pad that you were referencing won't work...you have to spray, wipe, buff then flip and buff and then move to a fresh rag.
    Are you saying when I encountered the spreading problem I should have stuck with the towel and used even LESS product rather more product, shrinking the working area, and going with a different applicator? I hadn't thought of going that direction. I figured product flashing faster than I could apply it meant too little product.

    Agree that over spray will be an issue if you aren't careful. I cup my rag when spraying it and do so 3ft from the car minimum.
    I was way too close, only 1~2 feet away at most, but turned away from the vehicle. Lesson learned.

    Can't comment on that technique but I would suggest trying it again on a couple panels using the technique I shared above.
    I've got some high spots I need to polish out, so that will give me a great opportunity to give your advice a try.

    I got 5-6 cars out of one can. My biggest GRIPE is the sprayers clog too easily even when flushed out with solvents to clear them.
    There is no way I'll get that ammount out of my can since I started with one only half full. Hopefull after some practice on a few spots I need to correct, I'll have enough for my wife's SUV. Based on your advice using less product will also help strech things out.

    I immediatly ran and APC and water solution through the sprayer. Hopefully they won't clog. Otherwise I'll probably have to hunt down some cosmetic sprayers to dispense the rest of the product.

    Hope my feedback proves helpful.
    Very helpful and thank you very much!
    Save the Manuals!!

  10. #7
    Senior Member Desertnate's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff at Gyeon View Post
    Glad to answer any other questions!
    Thank you very much for taking the time to provide some feedback.

    Based on the inputs so far, I need to go back and practice getting the right amount of product and application speed. I think I was working too slow with too much product.
    Save the Manuals!!

  11. #8
    Member Jeff at Gyeon's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    No problem! I think you are on the right track. Once you tweak that process I think you will really enjoy it. And I totally get the feeling of it not cooperating!

  12. #9
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    Quote Originally Posted by TTQ B4U View Post
    I'll chime in to help as I've done 5 vehicles and like the product enough to have two more cans in my cabinet.



    In terms of MF, I use low profile knap 170gsm Eagle Edge-less towels for my application. I fold them into 1/4's and spray on one side, wipe and buff, then flip and buff. I switch them out often....like every 1-2 panels depending on size. I also immediately drop them in a solution to keep them from hardening...as this product will cause them to be junk if you don't.

    Flashing wise, that's normal. Don't use too much product. A little goes a long way and if anything, just overlap some areas a second time as you move to the next. Go light on sprays though. I usually do 2-3 but never more. Any more and yes, you will have difficulty removing. I made that McSteak once early on. Just understand that the final buff should feel smooth and not at all grippy. If so, you have too much product on. ALWAYS spray away from the vehicle and do so in a closed environment with no wind. I will say that what I've done in my garage is keep my standing fan on low blowing perpendicular to where I am standing. No breeze can be felt it's so low and at 15ft away but it's enough to ensure ZERO overspray will hit the vehicle.



    The only thing I can say is that the MF Pad is likely not good as this is the type of product you have to spread so thin and then immediately buff that a pad won't allow either to happen. Spray one side of the rag, wipe it around, then begin buffing with that same side facing the car until it's smoooooth and slicker than initially felt. Then flip the rag and give a few more buffs to make sure it's flawless. I hope that technique makes sense.



    Hmmm....again, not being overly critical, because I wasn't there, but I suspect it's due to there being a lot of product. I usually do a 2x2 area and move on but agree that you must move quickly. Here too....swap rags every 1-2 panels. That MF Pad that you were referencing won't work...you have to spray, wipe, buff then flip and buff and then move to a fresh rag.



    Agree that over spray will be an issue if you aren't careful. I cup my rag when spraying it and do so 3ft from the car minimum. Usually 1-2 steps back from it down-wind for sure. Ironically, I use it on my glass (NEVER windshields though) all the time. The hydrophobic properties on glass are awesome on sides and back windows so long as they don't have a wiper.


    Can't comment on that technique but I would suggest trying it again on a couple panels using the technique I shared above. I got 5-6 cars out of one can. My biggest GRIPE is the sprayers clog too easily even when flushed out with solvents to clear them.



    Good to hear. It's still on my Infiniti and I must say, it does look like glass. The water properties are 2nd only to their Syncro Product and even there, it's close. Hope my feedback proves helpful.
    So much for the so called "easy" application of this product. Lol


    Sent from my LG-H932 using Autogeekonline mobile app
    '03 Corvette Z06

  13. #10
    Senior Member TTQ B4U's Avatar
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    Re: CanCoat Application Problems

    Quote Originally Posted by WRAPT C5Z06 View Post
    So much for the so called "easy" application of this product.[/URL]
    Yes/No, it's called a coating but the application is more like a Wipe on Buff Away style Coating - Lite.

    I'm still waiting for a WOWA Opti-Seal Style coating that will last 12-18 months and offer the hydrophobic property of CanCoat. That stuff will sell like crazy. Problem is it would likely cannibalize the rest of their offering.

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