I'm a little intimidated about using my 3401

[BuffaloBill]

So I have had this machine for about two years and am scared to break it out. I finally turned it on last week. Anyway, I got to thinking, the paint is really nice on my truck. It's as glossy as the day I bought it. So what I did was purchase Menzerna Super Finish 3500, Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800, and Menzerna Top Finish Machine Glaze. Apparently Menzerna's TFMG has a light abrasive with fillers, which I like.

As a new paint polisher would you start with the 3500 or 3800 and then next go around try something a little more abrasive? The truck does have orange peel but I'm not really trying to polish that off yet. I want to learn how to use the machine first. Also, the most abrasive pads I purchased were whites. Are these versatile enough for say Wolfgang's Total Swirl Remover 2000 grit or Wolfgang's Finishing Glaze 2500 grit? As I have these polishes as well. The next pads I have are gray/black and blue.

So basically, I am asking what should a new person to the dual action polishing world, using a Flex 3401, start at? What pad, what grit, what speed, and how many passes should I start out with? Like I said, the paint looks great being five years old. It's been cared for but hasn't been waxed/sealed in a year.

Thank you.

[Chris Thomas]

I was once afraid of a PC 7424 with 6in CCS pads. A little time behind the wheel and you'll gain confidence.

[dlc95]

I would go to youtube if you haven't already, and search "Mike Phillips flex 3401", and watch his 29 minute demonstration. It's awesome, and I still watch it at least once a week. He has another demonstration from a detail fest event about using it for production detailing, which is also extremely informative, and a much watch for anyone new to the Flex 3401.

[mwoolfso]

So I have had this machine for about two years and am scared to break it out. I finally turned it on last week. Anyway, I got to thinking, the paint is really nice on my truck. It's as glossy as the day I bought it. So what I did was purchase Menzerna Super Finish 3500, Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800, and Menzerna Top Finish Machine Glaze. Apparently Menzerna's TFMG has a light abrasive with fillers, which I like.

As a new paint polisher would you start with the 3500 or 3800 and then next go around try something a little more abrasive? Start with the least aggressive and perform a test spot to lock-in your process. The truck does have orange peel but I'm not really trying to polish that off yet. I want to learn how to use the machine first. That's good, because you cannot take out orange peel with polishes and associated pads; so you are safe. Also, the most abrasive pads I purchased were whites. Are these versatile enough for say Wolfgang's Total Swirl Remover 2000 grit or Wolfgang's Finishing Glaze 2500 grit? Yes, probably. A test spot would confirm. As I have these polishes as well. The next pads I have are gray/black and blue.

So basically, I am asking what should a new person to the dual action polishing world, using a Flex 3401, start at? What pad, what grit, what speed, and how many passes should I start out with? Like I said, the paint looks great being five years old. It's been cared for but hasn't been waxed/sealed in a year.

Thank you.

See above some direct answers to your queries. What I suggest you do is to go to a junkyard and purchase a car panel to play with. Get a panel with some shine/gloss and you will have a good opportunity to get used to the device, polishes and pads without affecting your vehicle.

If you are handy with power tools you will more than likely do well with the 3401.

[wrx495]

only thing I'm afraid of now is turning on my GG in my apartment complex and everyone asking me to do theirs now too! LOL

[dcjredline]

I cant get past the fact you bought a $350-400 machine and havent touched it for 2 years.

[DBAILEY]

Don't over think it. You are safe with those pads and polishes. None of them are aggressive. You would have to hold the 3401 in one place for a long time to do any damage. I'd be more worried about the 3401 walking on you (because you're not used to the forced rotation) and clunking it into something on the car.

[POPPAJ]

Really hard to screw it up! Easy Peasy.

[Dereksdtail]

It's pretty easy once you do a couple panels and get comfortable and it gets the job done fast

[MarkD51]

I cant get past the fact you bought a $350-400 machine and havent touched it for 2 years.

Or placed any protectants on the paint in a year?

Being in CO, perhaps vehicles there take less a beating (UV) than here in the desert southwest, but get hammered in other ways, like snow, and nasties on the road like sand-salt?

In any case, time does take it's toll.

I see many people today that falsely believe because the paint looks shiny (From the Clear Coat) that all is good, and that protectants don't need to be used, or used as much. And seen quite a few vehicles around the same age as yours on the verge of clear coat failure, or already has clear coat degradation, with peeling, oxidized paint turning white.

It took a good 16 or so years before I took a DA and Polishes to my own Tahoe SUV, but you can trust in those 16 years I applied more waxes, and sealants than the factory paintjob on it probably cost.

The paint on my SUV was always highly maintained, but I will say the paint looks better today by far than it did 6-8 years ago.

There's countless tutorial videos out there on the web, both by Mike Phillips, and others.
One doesn't necessarily have to watch a specific Flex 3401 Vid to learn and understand the basics of detailing, and polishing, but it does certainly help to get to know your specific machine, and to get the best abilities from it.

Nothing wrong with starting out with fine polishes, and it is often better to do less, than do too much. Learn the process of doing a test spot with 2-3 products on a panel section. See what works best, in both quality of finish, ease of work, and then simply repeat the process over the rest of the vehicle.

If it is hard for you to get the time to maintain your vehicle with protectants, then do consider durable products to protect. Bang for the buck, hard to beat products from the Collinite line-up.

Those products largely kept my Tahoe "on ice" so to speak all those years, protecting the finish and integrity of the paint. That the paint on this SUV looks as good as the day I bought it, if not actually better.

Attachment 38769