Or placed any protectants on the paint in a year?
Being in CO, perhaps vehicles there take less a beating (UV) than here in the desert southwest, but get hammered in other ways, like snow, and nasties on the road like sand-salt?
In any case, time does take it's toll.
I see many people today that falsely believe because the paint looks shiny (From the Clear Coat) that all is good, and that protectants don't need to be used, or used as much. And seen quite a few vehicles around the same age as yours on the verge of clear coat failure, or already has clear coat degradation, with peeling, oxidized paint turning white.
It took a good 16 or so years before I took a DA and Polishes to my own Tahoe SUV, but you can trust in those 16 years I applied more waxes, and sealants than the factory paintjob on it probably cost.
The paint on my SUV was always highly maintained, but I will say the paint looks better today by far than it did 6-8 years ago.
There's countless tutorial videos out there on the web, both by Mike Phillips, and others.
One doesn't necessarily have to watch a specific Flex 3401 Vid to learn and understand the basics of detailing, and polishing, but it does certainly help to get to know your specific machine, and to get the best abilities from it.
Nothing wrong with starting out with fine polishes, and it is often better to do less, than do too much. Learn the process of doing a test spot with 2-3 products on a panel section. See what works best, in both quality of finish, ease of work, and then simply repeat the process over the rest of the vehicle.
If it is hard for you to get the time to maintain your vehicle with protectants, then do consider durable products to protect. Bang for the buck, hard to beat products from the Collinite line-up.
Those products largely kept my Tahoe "on ice" so to speak all those years, protecting the finish and integrity of the paint. That the paint on this SUV looks as good as the day I bought it, if not actually better.
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