Flex Review XC 3401

[killrflake]

The Flex offers serious power and in most cases can afford the user with a safer and wiser investment over a rotary. For a professional a rotary is likely the best option. Since I got the Flex , the Hitachi Rotary and PC are gathering dust in the corner.

I've got to agree. Unless your a pro or have need for serious corection capability, the Flex should fill the bill for most detailers.

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

The Flex offers serious power and in most cases can afford the user with a safer and wiser investment over a rotary. For a professional a rotary is likely the best option. Since I got the Flex , the Hitachi Rotary and PC are gathering dust in the corner.

I've got to agree. Unless your a pro or have need for serious corection capability, the Flex should fill the bill for most detailers.

I respectfully disagree with the above... Till this day I don't understand why there is so much fear associated with using a rotary.

Should you be cautious and take steps to ensure that you do not damage paint and trim = yes, should you fear a rotary to the point that you reserve yourself to only using a DA and never really see the true perfection in removal of paintwork inclusions and the beauty of a high gloss finish that burnishing with a rotary can afford = No. I really wish I would not have bought into the rotary fear for as long as I had.

Just remember, the slowest speed on a rotary surpases the fastest on a PC so take it slow, no need to go full tilt boogie.. Hell, when I 1st started on a rotary I didn't go over speed 2 and achieved superior defect removal than I ever did with a DA (PC & flex).



As long as the user:
Takes it slow
Tapes things up
uses common sense

Things will be fine....

Again, I state these points for those that are "on the fence" about a flex or a rotary and may read the comments above and decide that a flex is "comparable" to the rotary because it simply is not.. I have both and the ONLY time I break out the flex is when I am doing a one step.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Very well said Jason. it does not matter if you are a pro or not, there should be no reason not to get one to do paint correction. The rotary does everything a pc and flex do. Also you have becareful with any tool that you use. Plus you have to understand it is not the tool that does the damage it is the operator.

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

it does not matter if you are a pro or not, there should be no reason not to get one to do paint correction. .

[robb01]

I've got to agree. Unless your a pro or have need for serious corection capability, the Flex should fill the bill for most detailers.

[ScottB]

the thing that often comes into play is how much correction is needed. Typically a hobbist or weekender has a very nice or reasonable finish and doesnt need the power/quickness of the rotary. I dont find myself scared of the rotary, just it is not needed truthfully.

Add in that most offering a rotary over a Flex either doesnt own one (Flex) nor used it on multiple occasions and thus their experience with it is quite limited. The more you use it the more you see its capabilities. (not knocking anyone specifically) It is abit slower, more patience is needed, but offers a bit of a degree more safety based upon its orbital design (less heat transfer). Obviously if already using and quite comfortable with rotary no need to move backwards unless by personal preference which could be another reason NOT to suggest a Flex over rotary.

A professional is often confronted with the worst finishes, and thus why I recommend rotaries in their profession. The are often paid or compensated on time (by how many cars they can do) and that also plays an important part. There is no right or wrong answer it depends on the finish, abilities, and needs of the user.

I think some forget a good portion of this forum are car care hobbist and not always professionals nor in the paint field. IMO the Flex has closed the gap between PC and rotary, and much closer to rotary in terms of power and correction. The Flex is a great upgrade from PC and truthfully allows some to forgo the need/use of a rotary. Sorry if you disagree.

[Junebug]

Well said Killer. I'd like to add to that. I started with a PC (bought here at AG) and then got a Makita (another AG purchase - I see an expensive pattern) anyway. I started to do details for family, friends and the word of mouth of my work got me other customers. I even did the used-abused cars of a friend that runs a used car lot/auto body shop. OK, you get my drift, I'm not a full time detailer but I have a steady second job on the weekends. Now, one way to get better with your work is to meet with others and have a detail day, we did just that this past summer. The test car was a 10 year old black BMW. There was a full time detailer there - very good and does a lot of high dollar cars in the Raleigh area, as well as several part-timers that have been at it longer than me. We did three sections along the side of the car, the pro used a makita, another guy did the same with a different polish and I used a borrowed G110. After the first round - both rotary sections were defect free (did I mention this car was swirled up, oxidized and scratched) but they had the rotary haze or as some folks call "micro marring", my section was ready for wax (according to the owner) and the other detailers agreed that it did look ready in "most" folks eyes but that all 3 sections should have a finer polishing round We repeated the test on the trunk lid - same results. So the whole argument that ONLY a rotary can produce the best results is busted. As far as time goes, if you add in the taping, covering and clean-up from a rotary, I don't see a lot of difference. I read all the time from guys on this forum and Autopia about rotary trails, halograms and issues trying to finish down with a rotary. I'm not saying it's impossible, but there is a fairly good learning curve, then throw in the variables that come from each car, products, pads etc and you see that it ain't as easy as it seems. I sold my makita, I just wasn't using it and maybe I'm too old and set in my ways - but for me, why make a job harder on yourself if you can help it. I believe the trend will be away from rotaries, ok, don't agree, I respect your opinion, but read a little over on mobileworks forum, watch the guy from AutoMagic show how their new refinishing system is all based on the Cyclo and then maybe we can agree to disagree. Thank you.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Well, I will still disagree, having still used the flex, pc, and rotary. The rotary does and always will produce better results. It is all the tools wraped into one. As far as making your job more time consuming or harder with a rotary, like I said above goes back to the operator. It takes some practice but the rotary will give you the best results. I understand there is a fear of the rotary for some unknown reason, but it is like any other tool, if commonsense is used there will be no problems that no other of the mentioned tools wouldn't cause if not used correctly.

[Junebug]

Well, my example proved it enough for me - as in who am I going to believe - you or my lying eyes....Zoran, for most - you and I are preaching to the choir, to others they ain't gonna change and I don't give 2 cents if they don't.

[ZoranC]

Zoran, for most - you and I are preaching to the choir, to others they ain't gonna change and I don't give 2 cents if they don't.

I know, but I am not doing it for those few, I am doing it for benefit of those who read and might end up mislead if only one side keeps being propagated.

3401 is designed by professionals for professionals with sole purpose in mind: quick, efficient, and flawless paint correction and polishing in automotive industry. It is the only tool out there that I know of designed with this in mind.