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  1. #31
    Member JFire72's Avatar
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Quote Originally Posted by JFire72 View Post
    I was going to start a new thread, and this one is almost what exactly what I would have started, minus the machine part anyway. So I hope it's ok if I piggy back off you here.

    I have not used Lake County pads before, and I just placed an order for 3 of them. My thinking here was this:

    I have light marks on the paint, and reading through the website description of them, I went with an orange pad. I did that for the light marks and have a heavy correcting polish in case the correcting polish and next pad up didn't work on them.

    My next pad is green, and was to correct the light marks, or to go over what I did with the orange pad. I was going to use the correcting polish on this pad.

    My last pad is white, and was for the finishing polish. I am starting to think I should have gotten a black pad for this one.

    My final step after these 3 was to apply my sealant, and I do that by hand using Wolfgang.

    I did this whole process on my Durango this past weekend, and when I was finished, I decided to try out different pads. I am doing my Charger next week at some point, so I have a couple of days to order more pads if necessary.

    Any thoughts?

    Edit:

    I just got the car I'm about to do about 2 months ago, and its brand new, never been touched. I've washed it a few times, but it hasn't been polished or protected yet, hence the minor markings. My idea of light/minor is one that you have to look at up close and in several different angles to find and see it. They aren't ones that you can point out and say to someone, ya I have a mark there.

    Hope this makes sense, and you can see the reasoning behind my choices.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Ignore most of this, I just went ahead and got one of everything, it's not like they are very expensive. So I'm good to go for anything that I do now. Advise for flex noob

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  2. #32
    Senior Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Just to add to what may be confusing to you.

    The PC may be listed as a 6" random orbital buffer. That dimension, 6", i believe refers to the counterweight that comes standard with the machine. It is the weight equipped to randomly spin 6" pads. Don't let this dissuade you from equipping the machine with a 5' BP and 5.5" pads. They work perfectly fine on the "6 inch" Porter Cable 7424.

    I ONLY use 5.5" Lake Country Thin Pro pads on my 6" older PC and get amazing results. I even occassionally use 3-4" pads for finer work on my machine and they also work. Yes, the machine wants to offset the "throw" like a 6" mass but it isn't a problem.

    If its still available, I believe you can order the 5" counterweight to more accurately match the size pads you're using but I never got one and the 6" weight works fine.

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  4. #33
    Senior Member Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    What ever pad you choose, you are going to need more than 1 of. I would say at least 6 if not more.
    Jim

  5. #34
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    That should never happen on this forum. When I first came here in 2009 we had a couple of "special people" on this forum that we eventually shoved out the door because they were flat out condescending and rude to forum members, both new members and existing members. Since those days, my personal goal has been to make this a fun, friendly and just as important, helpful forum.

    There are plenty of other forums as well as other social media platforms where you get treated like a second class person but this will not be one of them.


    Thanks for coming back and asking a great question.


    Well haters gonna hate - it's really true. This is a great forum with lots of active members and you acutally get an reply if you post something... LOL Appreciate the hospitality, Mike, I will stick around.

  6. #35
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    You want the 5" backing plate so you can turn and churn 5.5" pads.

    Smaller pads fit the body panels better than 6.5" pads. Keep in mind, you're not supposed to buff on edges or raised body lines, thus smaller pads FIT the different shapes of panels on modern cars better than larger pads.

    Smaller, thinner pads rotate better than larger thicker pads (in most cases), so you'll get better correction and polishing action from smaller pads.

    Also - just to note - the NAME --> Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher - the 6 means it comes with a 6" backing plate. They could have just as easily included a 5" backing plate and then called it the Griot's Garage 5" Random Orbital Polisher.

    I have sent more than one e-mail to Griot's recommending they change this tool to come with 5" pads and then also change the box graphics and all marketing materials to reflect this change to no avail. Keep in mind, just last weekend I was teaching a class AT Griot's Garage and we used the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polishers and we put 5" backing plates on all of them except when machine sanding.


    Also, here's an article I wrote about this tool, it is FULL of TONS of INFORMATION and a video that will make learning how to use this tool easy.


    Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips



    Hope that helps....


    Also for what it's worth, I've used all the tools everyone is talking about in this thread and probably more, and when I need to knock a car out fast, (and that's most of the time), I always grab the BEAST. I always say in my classes,

    "The little things are the big things"


    And I find 8mm gear-driven orbital to do more correction faster than 5mm gear drive orbitals. I find 5mm gear-driven to be smoother, but not faster. Again, I've used them all and I'm all about speed with top notch quality.



    like another user wrote...then counterweight.. does not need to be changed for sure if you use replace the "6 BP with a "5 BP... correct? I am not sure I want to mess with those parts of the equipment... I am not really a "TOOL GUY" gotta say...a drill is the closest I have come to electric tools for the shop and stuff..

    Acutally washed, cleaned and sealed my car the other day by hand......cause I am still not 100% ready I guess but the PC or GRIOTS seem so far the best choice too start... with all your recommendations of course.

    appreciate for sure!

    PS: those spots on my hood I mentioned to my dealer they need to polish out..seems like they removed those I showed them...but still some strange spots on the hood in other places..might upload a pic cause I have no clue what it is (still)...old bird dropping, tar, tree sap... not sure. Unable to clean it off by hand.
    Last edited by Shadowworldz; 08-09-2018 at 09:37 PM. Reason: add note

  7. #36
    Senior Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    That's correct, no real need to change out the counterweight from the factory installed 6" to a 5" (although it is super easy...2 screws).

  8. #37
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post
    What ever pad you choose, you are going to need more than 1 of. I would say at least 6 if not more.
    yeah I am sure your right. like MF towels... they surely trap those nasty wood particles well... can't even get them out after a wash. Time for new ones again.

    Oh and update on my DA journey... I think I am getting the FLEX if I have any $$ left around X-mas time. My car has so many edges... The PC and such my stall alot...I was reconing. plus it's not made in China...

  9. #38
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadowworldz View Post

    like another user wrote...then counterweight.. does not need to be changed for sure if you use replace the "6 BP with a "5 BP... correct?

    So many "experts" in the car detailing world. No one reads anymore....

    I wrote this 8 years ago - it's just as accurate today as when I wrote it

    The Free Floating Spindle Bearing Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...


    What it shows you is the PC started its life out as a WOOD SANDER

    The Porter Cable Dual Action Sander with Wood Dust Collecting Attachment for Sanding Wood





    I used a PC to SAND DOWN the top of this desk that use to be Malcolm Meguiar's

    NOTE THE SANDING DISC ON TEH BACKING PLATE






    Okay now follow me....


    Everyone copied the PC when they brought out their version of this tool. When they copied the PC they copied the counterweight component apparently not knowing what the hell it was for.

    Now think about it... the PC was designed to rotate and oscillate a THIN SANDING DISC - NOT A THICK FOAM PAD.

    When it comes to "polishing paint" with a tool designed to rotate and oscillate a thin sanding disc --> YOU DON'T NEED TO CHANGE THE COUTERWEIGHT.


    Share the above in the social media world for all the experts...


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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    Mike Phillips Facebook Page
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    Click on a book to get your own copy.



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  11. #39
    Senior Member TTQ B4U's Avatar
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    No one reads anymore....
    4 minute videos max trump reading anymore. Now if we get everyone who calls themselves a YouTuber to keep their videos 4 minutes and not 42 minutes that would be great

    Sent from my Galaxy Note 8 using Tapatalk

  12. #40
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    Re: Advise for flex noob

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadowworldz View Post
    yeah I am sure your right. like MF towels... they surely trap those nasty wood particles well... can't even get them out after a wash. Time for new ones again.

    Oh and update on my DA journey... I think I am getting the FLEX if I have any $$ left around X-mas time. My car has so many edges... The PC and such my stall alot...I was reconing. plus it's not made in China...
    i was in your situation last year. hand detailed for decades with mothers 3 step and then tripped onto modern day detailing tools and products.

    short story...went with flex 3401hydro kit at AG

    the cheapest way to buy a tool is buying the right tool the first time...

    many options in the market...i went with the flex 3401 bc its tried and true tool and the flex with the wolfgang series of polishes and sealants delivered.

    id recommend not overlooking decon process which provides half the correction results...claying or nanoskin with iron x....the polishing and protectants provide youbwith the other half of correction. (thanks mike p for all the guidance here...followed mike p's process fully and it over delivered )

    lets talk real world results: my gals 2012 white camry which had dull paint looked better than dealership new when we bought it when i was done. her coworkers were asking me for what i used on her car.

    process :iron x , nanoskin,wg uber compound , wg fg, wg, wg deep gloss paint sealant then topped with ps21

    btw the wg glass cleaner is phenomenal....no streaks and the glass is so clean it makes the glass disappear

    imo the 3401 kit is not expensive...its a great value kit by AG

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