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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Eagan, MN
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    Operation Star Craft 2015

    Mission: To Restore my Father -in-law’s boat to its former glory.
    Current Condition: As you can tell from some of the photos the gelcoat is chalky, dull and yellow stained. The photos below tell the story.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Equipment:
    1. Porter Cable 7424 XP ( brand new)
    2. 5.5 LC CCS Low profile pads ( Orange, White and blue)
    Products on Hand:
    1. 3M Rubbing Compound – Extra cut
    2. 3M Finesse-It II Glaze
    3. 3M Cleaner Wax
    4. 3M Liquid Wax - Marine

    Proposed Process:
    This past weekend I did a test spot using old fashion elbow grease. I used the least abrasive product first. I finally had to break out the 3M Extra cut to get though the yellow stain. As you can see in the 50/50 below, the results are pretty good using the hand method.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]


    Since I already have a lot of 3M product already, I would like to stick within that product line. So I was thinking about ordering the 3M Marine Compound and Finishing material and the 5.5 LC thin Purple Wool pad. My workflow for the exterior would look something like this:
    1. Wash boat (interior / Exterior)
    2. Paint Correction - 3M Marine Compound and Finishing material ( LC Thin Wool Pad)
    3. Polish – 3M Marine Finesse-It II Glaze ( LC CSS White pad)
    4. Wax – 3M Marine Liquid Wax ( LC CSS blue pad)
    If I was able to get the compounding scratches out using the Finesse-It Glaze, should I use that or should I try the Compound and Finishing material combo, in hopes of not needing the polishing step?

    Does anyone have experience using the 3M Marine Compound and Finishing Material product?

    Any suggestions on how to remove the oxidation from the painted metal on the outboard?

    I know it is recommended to use a Flex or a rotary buffer instead of my PC. However from what I have read, I think the PC will work, but it might just take a bit more elbow grease. I plan on using low profile 5.5” pads to reduce the mass the PC will spin.

    The detail job is a month or so out, but I want to start planning for this. Any comments, tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Re: Operation Star Craft 2015

    looks like my auto correct got me. I am using LC CCS pads not CSS

  3. #3
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: Operation Star Craft 2015

    Hi Jeremy,

    The best way to tackle this using the tools and product you already have on hand would be to get some type of fiber pads for the DA and get away from the foam for removing the oxidation and staining.

    The fastest way would be to machine sand the gel-coat and remove the dead, oxidized gel-coat but then you would want and need a rotary buffer to remove your sanding marks. This is always what I would consider an advanced process and not something people should undertake without someone around with experience or you could turn a mole hill into a mountain real quick.

    I actually set up some guys to just this process this morning. That is they're machine sanding a boat as I type but the boat they're sanding is 10 x worse than the boat in your pictures.

    So here's what I would suggest....

    Get some Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool THIN pads for the compounding step or some Meguiar's Xtra-cut Microfiber pads.

    I have to be honest and tell you I have not tried the Xtra cut with any compounds on gel-coat but I know the Meguiar's Xtra cut microfiber pads are a quality product and a FIBER pad and you want to maximize the potential of your Porter Cable for this type of work and that means using a fiber pad for the first step not a foam pad.

    I have used the THIN PFW pads on a Porter Cable for oxidation and they do work. I just don't know if one type of pad is better than the other, that I don't know if the Xtra Cut MF pads are better than the thin PFW's or visa versa. I do know that fiber pads cut better than foam pads on any type of tool as the fibers are a type of abrasive.

    Take a look at what we did with THIN PFW's in this extreme boat makeover...

    Pictures: 16' Key Largo Center Console Boat Detailing Class with Marine 31









    No matter what type of fiber pad you use you have to be very careful not to push them past their limit as to what they can do. By this I mean, the right tool for this job is a rotary buffer and a wool pad.

    Trying to use a PC with a fiber pad to do the work of a rotary buffer with a wool pad means....

    Something's gotta give


    That something is going to be the pads first followed by the backing plate. To do this type of work you're going to be pushing the PC and the pad on the PC against the side of the hull for HOURS and this is going to generate a lot of heat at the center of the backing plate.

    The liquids, that is the compounds and polishes you're using are going to migrate to the middle of the pad and then migrate to the backing plate and these things,

    1. Time
    2. Pressure
    3. Violent oscillating action
    4. Heat
    5. Solvents

    All of the above are going to cause pad failure and even backing plate failure.

    It's not because the products are not high quality it's because you're going to be pushing them to the limit as to what they can do.

    So... lots of pads...


    Another thing to keep in mind... Meguiar's recommends staying at 4800 OPM with all their MF pads that's because they know the heat issue causes problems with all pads, (not just theirs), and they know that a lot of guys, without a strong recommendation will run their DA Polishers at full speed, push hard and buff for hours and this will cause pad failure.

    So keep all of the above in mind when tackling this type of project.

    Hope this helps.... if you have any more questions post them...



  4. #4
    Regular Member
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    Mar 2015
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    Re: Operation Star Craft 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy5431 View Post
    Mission: To Restore my Father -in-law’s boat to its former glory.
    Current Condition: As you can tell from some of the photos the gelcoat is chalky, dull and yellow stained. The photos below tell the story.

    Equipment:
    1. Porter Cable 7424 XP ( brand new)
    2. 5.5 LC CCS Low profile pads ( Orange, White and blue)
    Products on Hand:
    1. 3M Rubbing Compound – Extra cut
    2. 3M Finesse-It II Glaze
    3. 3M Cleaner Wax
    4. 3M Liquid Wax - Marine

    Proposed Process:
    This past weekend I did a test spot using old fashion elbow grease. I used the least abrasive product first. I finally had to break out the 3M Extra cut to get though the yellow stain. As you can see in the 50/50 below, the results are pretty good using the hand method.


    Since I already have a lot of 3M product already, I would like to stick within that product line. So I was thinking about ordering the 3M Marine Compound and Finishing material and the 5.5 LC thin Purple Wool pad. My workflow for the exterior would look something like this:
    1. Wash boat (interior / Exterior)
    2. Paint Correction - 3M Marine Compound and Finishing material ( LC Thin Wool Pad)
    3. Polish – 3M Marine Finesse-It II Glaze ( LC CSS White pad)
    4. Wax – 3M Marine Liquid Wax ( LC CSS blue pad)
    If I was able to get the compounding scratches out using the Finesse-It Glaze, should I use that or should I try the Compound and Finishing material combo, in hopes of not needing the polishing step?

    Does anyone have experience using the 3M Marine Compound and Finishing Material product?

    Any suggestions on how to remove the oxidation from the painted metal on the outboard?

    I know it is recommended to use a Flex or a rotary buffer instead of my PC. However from what I have read, I think the PC will work, but it might just take a bit more elbow grease. I plan on using low profile 5.5” pads to reduce the mass the PC will spin.

    The detail job is a month or so out, but I want to start planning for this. Any comments, tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Okay here is my two cents. Gel coat is nothing like a clear coat. Gel is extremely durable, which is a huge plus since boats are kept in/out of water. Also it is very easy to work with if you have the correct tools. The downside is that it oxizes like nothing else.

    From your pictures, it looks like you got off a lot of the surface ozidation. But the boat still has a long way to go. As Mike said a foam pad cannot be used. Unlike a clear coat, gel has to be attacked not patiently worked with.

    For pad selection there is an alternative. I spoke to the guy at CarPro and asked him if their new Denim pads work on gel. He said that he wasn't sure but a detailer in Houston used the denim pads and they worked really well for him. So maybe that in an option for you.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    Mar 2015
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    Re: Operation Star Craft 2015

    Well I placed my order today. I ordered a few Lc pfw pads. They were out of the fiber pads so I'll have to use that as an excuse to submit another order.

    I also bought some captains coating too. I'm looking forward to trying it on my jet ski too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Junior Member
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    Mar 2015
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    Re: Operation Star Craft 2015

    Mike would you recommend a dewalt rotary polisher or a flex 3401 for this type of correction?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Re: Operation Star Craft 2015

    So my project was delayed a year. I started at 7:30 this morning and so far I am very impressed with the PC 7424xp it takes a bit longer and my forearms are a bit tired but the boat looks awesome. I'm half way done.







    More to come




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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