Mike was right...

Mike was right...



Im in love with the Marine 31 Captains compound as well as Rupes Blue Course pad.


One boat was just a graphic removal and blending. Started off with eraser wheel to remove the graphics then went on to doing light sanding with 1000 grit, 1500 grit, then 2000 grit. Then I finished off with the Captains compound, blue Rupes, and my Flex 3401. It had no problem getting out the scratch marks and finishing off beautifully.

Second boat to try it on was a test spot on a 33 world cat with horrible ghost graphics. On the test spot I had to start with 600 grit, then on to 1000 grit, and 1500. After that I brought out the ol rotary with a Marine 31 twisted wool and the Heavy cut compound. Then on to finishing off with the Flex 3401, Blue Rupes and captains compound.

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:)

Good work. Now you just need to learn like I did recently how to post pics witbout the thumbnails. Took me a bit because I am using a phone to do it.

This...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Coastalf350

Im in love with the Marine 31 Captains compound as well as Rupes Blue Course pad.

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Good to see it worked out for you.


As I explain in my boat detailing book, gel-coats DON'T like soft foam pad when doing machine polishing. (abrading)

In fact, my experience is a soft foam pad can actually DULL the surface after you're restored a high gloss surface from a compounding step using a wool pad and a rotary buffer. I share this in my how to book and in the book I'm honest and state that I don't know the reason for this anomaly? I have also never found anyone that can explain the reason why? All I know is gel-coats like a firm hard pad if the goal is maximum gloss and uniform clarity of shine over large surfaces like boat hulls.


Thus I have found the RUPES blue coarse foam cutting pad to be a GREAT polishing pad AFTER all the oxidation has been removed or sanding marks if a person is wet sanding off the oxidation. The Lake Country blue Hybrid also works well. I tried the purple Lake Country Kompressor pads and they were a tick too aggressive or the slotted tab design had an negative affect as afterwards I saw haze caused by the buffing process.

Also, throughout the book I state that while the traditional Marine 31 compounds and polishes are as good as any other brand on the market it is the Marine 31 Captain's One-Step Compound & Polish that can replace all three of the traditional compounds and polishes because of the abrasive technology. It cuts like a compound and finishes out like a polish. I think in my book I state that for my time I wouldn't use anything else.

Here's your pictures. I uploaded them into your free gallery here on the forum.



http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_01.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_02.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_03.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_04.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_05.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_06.jpg




:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

This...




Good to see it worked out for you.


As I explain in my boat detailing book, gel-coats DON'T like soft foam pad when doing machine polishing. (abrading)

In fact, my experience is a soft foam pad can actually DULL the surface after you're restored a high gloss surface from a compounding step using a wool pad and a rotary buffer. I share this in my how to book and in the book I'm honest and state that I don't know the reason for this anomaly? I have also never found anyone that can explain the reason why? All I know is gel-coats like a firm hard pad if the goal is maximum gloss and uniform clarity of shine over large surfaces like boat hulls.


Thus I have found the RUPES blue coarse foam cutting pad to be a GREAT polishing pad AFTER all the oxidation has been removed or sanding marks if a person is wet sanding off the oxidation. The Lake Country blue Hybrid also works well. I tried the purple Lake Country Kompressor pads and they were a tick too aggressive or the slotted tab design had an negative affect as afterwards I saw haze caused by the buffing process.

Also, throughout the book I state that while the traditional Marine 31 compounds and polishes are as good as any other brand on the market it is the Marine 31 Captain's One-Step Compound & Polish that can replace all three of the traditional compounds and polishes because of the abrasive technology. It cuts like a compound and finishes out like a polish. I think in my book I state that for my time I wouldn't use anything else.

Here's your pictures. I uploaded them into your free gallery here on the forum.



http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_01.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_02.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_03.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_04.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_05.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...50_Boat_06.jpg




:)

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Honest question Mike, marine 31 uses polishing oils in their products, doesn't this give a false shine that won't last long? Same thing why we don't like silicone in our compound and polish as that just "makes" it look good temporarily?


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