Compounding by hand

[KneeDragr]

Yeah I have been looking for something to get underneath the door handles. Anyone who has success please post up.

[drvnbysound]

Yeah I have been looking for something to get underneath the door handles. Anyone who has success please post up.

Info on working behind door handles beginning about the 30:00 mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMsNg1iCoTU

[FUNX650]

Looking for some tips to improve applying compound by hand(mostly gel). Just areas where the buffer won't fit, so I can get the most even finish. Should I use a folded up MF or terry towel, MF applicator, compound foam applicator, pressure, number of passes, how often to clean/change applicator ect... any info or tips would be great! Thanks in advance.

Scratch Removal Using Ultimate Compound

"It's pretty common to pick up isolated, random scratches in your car's finish over time, especially if your car is a daily driver...
Ultimate Compound to remove about 98% of scratch right wear your eyes would see it everyday, right above the door handle".

"These are all original shots, the photos have not been resized, the portion shown was cropped out of the original".


"Before: Deep Scratch just above the door handle"





"After 3 applications of Ultimate Compound"



"After a few more applied by the owner"



"Also, those results were before any wax or any other product was applied.
What you see is just the results of Ultimate Compound hand applied using a clean, soft foam applicator pad".

~Mike Phillips
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________

Also:

Yeah I have been looking for something to get underneath the door handles.
Anyone who has success please post up.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...r-handles.html





Bob

[Theraven]

I checked out the Cyclo DoublePrecision Blue & yellow 4 in pads. They seam pretty nice and work with a rotray. Has anyone tried out the LC wool compounding ball or any other type of ball/rotary polishing pads?

[drvnbysound]

Between the video I posted, and the post above, I'm pretty impressed with the results you can get from a compound and the yellow/soft foam applicator pads...

[KneeDragr]

Would a MF pad and UC work better than foam?

[Mike Phillips]

Looking for some tips to improve applying compound by hand

A few tips...

1. Only work a small area at a time. The reason why is you're trying to remove material, usually paint but this would apply to gel-coat too. To abrade and level the surface you need to force the abrasive particles in the compound to take little bites out of the surface and this means downward pressure or elbow grease.

We has humans cannot sustain a fast hand movement with downward pressure in a uniform and controlled manner for very long or over a large area. Best results come from working an area only about the size of a 16" by 16" squarish area or your standard microfiber towel size if it were laid flat against the surface, or smaller.



2. Use an aggressive material for the first application, like microfiber or terry cloth as these are both more aggressive than soft foam. Then do a follow-up application using foam to remove any toweling marks inflicted during the first application.

3. Working a compound by hand is NOT like applying a finishing wax to a perfect paint finish, but this is how I see most people try to do it. It's a fast hand motion with plenty of downward pressure.


Here's an article on this topic and note I taught hand compounding for years and I found the best sales tool for a machine was having people watch me work by hand.


How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand

• Always work clean

• Use a clean, soft foam applicator pad, I really like these,
  
  CCS Red Wax/Sealant Applicator Pads 2 Pack
  
  Because they are fairly thick so the spread out the pressure of your fingers better than thinner versions.
  
  (I like thinner versions for applying finishing waxes and sealants because then I'm not pushing hard so don't need the thickness).

• Work on a cool surface in the shade

• Work a small area at a time, about 8" to 10" squarish or so...

• Use an "ample" amount of product, don't under-use and don't overuse to the point that you hyper-lubricate the surface but use enough to keep the surface lubricated throughout the process. I would use a teaspoon to a tablespoon of product, usually a tablespoon's amount to start with because your pad is dry when you start and some of the product is going to go into the pad, and after breaking in your pad then cut down to about a teaspoon's amount of product.

• Hold your hand flat to the pad, not vertical, the idea is to not put pressure ONLY on your fingertips but over the face of your fingers to avoid Fingermarks

• Spread the product out over the area you're going to work

• Work the product for about a minute, don't work till the product is dry, but it should go from an opaque film to a clear film

• Wipe off before residue dries

• When you move on to a new area overlap a little into the previous area

Before going over an entire panel or an entire car, first do a "Test Spot" and make sure you're getting the results you want and hope for. If you can't make one small area look good with your choice of product, pad and "your technique" then you'll be glad you only worked on a small section to start with or to test and not went over the entire panel or car.

When working on clear coats by hand to actually "remove" defects, technique is just as important as your choice of product and pad, (pad = application material).

So do a Test Spot first.

Also, read the manufactures directions and follow them as the above is just a general guideline. The manufacture always knows their products best.

[Theraven]

Thanks everyone for your awesome responses!