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  1. #11
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    Re: Help with my makita po500oc

    Quote Originally Posted by dlc95 View Post
    Try the green with 105, and blue with 205.

    This foam are like the old rotary foams, where the green was considered cutting, and blue polishing.

    Their cut was dependent on both cell/pore size, and density, rather than just density.


    The green and blue American foam pads are softer, and the green grittier. This allows for a more forgiving user experience when paired with a forced rotation tool.

    - are you talking about the chemical guys green pads ?


    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM

    How many passes per sections do you do? And is this grabbing comes directly when you start to polish? Then it could be the prep work. Do you clay thoroughly before so you feel a smooth paint? This can come very fast to grabbing too. And one more thing is how often you switch pads and clean them. The more dirt and polish residue and paint residue you get on the pad the more it will getting to bounce and want to grabb the paint.
    - i do about 2 passes for the m 105 half way through the 2nd pass the compound kinda get dusty and disapear .

    - one pad per secion , ie, door , half a hood, quater pannel and so on

    - i clean the pad every time witha brush before putting more product .

    - i clayed the car clean and washed it twice

    - it starts being grabby about 1/4 of doing the first pass, but after reading everyone comment, it big be my technique is wrong andnot having it flat .

    - i can pad every two section or once there to much product caked on it. i go through about 4 - 5 pads for compounding and 3-4 for for polishing stage .

    ------------------------------

    thanks for the dvice guys, i think it might just be my technique, i just thought itll be easy to use like a free spining da didnt know i would need some muscle to use it. on the hood , roof and trunk area its a bit easier as im pushing down but when i do the side that when things become even more difficult. going back and forth latterly seems easier to handle but when swicthing going any other dirextion thats whne its becomes unstable and i run into all my problems .

    last question , since this is a more powerfull machine , am i suppose to be moving faster like a rotary polisher ?

    mike - im gonna try your pad suggestion, going to buy the buff and shine and lake country hdo since the last pads not available here in canada

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  3. #12
    Super Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: Help with my makita po500oc

    Quote Originally Posted by WRAPT C5Z06 View Post
    Hi Mike, why do you think Rupes went with thin pads?
    Good question. Rupes has thicker pads, but they made the thinner pads explicitly for the Mille..Even the box say its for the Millie.

  4. #13
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    Re: Help with my makita po500oc

    Maybe start off at a much slower speed to make sure you are laying down an even film of polish over your section before cranking up your speed. Don't just dab the pad face over the section and go at it. Sounds like you are hitting wetter more lubricated spots and then dry spots.

  5. #14
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    Re: Help with my makita po500oc

    Like I said before, the 5mm throw makes it pretty finicky when it comes to pad selection(as far as smoothness). Once you find the right pads, it should be way smoother and less jerky. Using a well lubricated polish and priming the whole face of fresh pad is also very important.
    '03 Corvette Z06

  6. #15
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Help with my makita po500oc

    Quote Originally Posted by DBAILEY View Post

    Maybe start off at a much slower speed to make sure you are laying down an even film of polish over your section before cranking up your speed.

    Don't just dab the pad face over the section and go at it. Sounds like you are hitting wetter more lubricated spots and then dry spots.

    Good technique tip.


    In my classes, whether you use the Kissing Technique, dabbing product around the area to be worked end then start buffing, (this technique is share in my how-to books), or whether you just place the face of the pad against the paint and start buffing, either way the FIRST thing you do is spread your product out over the area to be worked to create a UNIFORM layer of product which is both the abrasives and the lubricants.

    A lot of experts call the lubricants fillers - that just shows they don't understand the big picture.


    But like DBAILY stated, spread your product out so you have a uniform layer of product to provide uniform LUBRICATION and this will help the pad to buff over the surface smoothly no matter what the thickness or type of pad.

    Good Technique 101



  7. #16
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    Help with my makita po500oc

    So, I got some seat time with the Mille today. I may be the odd ball out, but I find the Flex 3401 EASIER to control, while the Mille has less vibration.


    Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
    '03 Corvette Z06

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