Son1c Carnubavore troubles?

[Bigsurprise]

I am in the middle of waxing my 335i and am running into a problem. I am using a GG6 with blue pad, and rubbing the block of carnubavore straight onto the pad. My car has already been washed, iron x'd, clayed and two coats of megs m21 have been curing over night.

I don't seem to be able to get a nice even coat of wax on the car unless I apply more pressure than I would like at this stage. If I don't apply a good supply of pressure, the wax looks blotchy on the paint.


I have done about half the car so far and have started removing the wax on the hood and that isn't going well either. I am buffing using a blue whale microfiber towel but it seems difficult to remove. I tried spritzing the towel with some megs quick detailer but I don't think that is helping too much. There seems to be these really small circles or blotches of wax left on the car after buffing. They are all over, but really small.


I don't know if this has to do with anything, but the block of wax used to be silky south on top but now I am wearing into a part that is more crystalline and rough. It mostly melts away but it makes it more difficult to load my pad. Here's is the bottom of the block.
And here is the top.

My plan is to buff the carnubavore off as best I can, then just apply done glasur to the whole car.

Have you guys experienced this before?

Edit: I have applied carnubavore once before by hand and I had the same issues but it wasn't quite as bad. I liked the way it beaded so I thought I'd use it again. At this point I think the car looked and felt better just with the m21.

[FUNX650]

"Like removes like"...

This works for me:
-Reduce the size of the area to be re-waxed.
-Re-apply a small amount of Carnaubavore to the areas
where the really small circles/blotches still remain;
-Spritz with the detail spray;
-Buff.

Note:
I have never heard of "done glazur"...
But if it's a type of Wax-LSP:
That may also work as the "Like"


Bob

[expdetailing]

Do your very best to apply any wax as thin as you can. This will greatly aid in the removal process, and it will help you acieve a higher gloss, IMO.
I can see, according to the distance between each pad revolution, you are moving too fast as well. Next time, try less wax, and slower arm speed.
I have to admit, I'm speaking as if I know, but I really don't. I apply anything LSP by hand.

[Bigsurprise]

Thanks guys. It does seem like it is too thick. The problem is that if I didn't load the pad up, it wouldn't transfer to the paint. I ended up buffing off all I could with one towel, and then go over the paint again with a fresh buffing towel to remove the small blotches.

I applied m21 last night with no issues. I was able to get it really thin, and removing it was a dream because it was so thin. I had a smile on my face the whole time.

I am using a speed of 1.5, that may be why the swirls don't look too close together. I read that 3 is recommended but it seemed to fast just to be applying a lsp imo.

[flatstick]

make sure you use a thin coat of wax . also make sure to use the finger swipe test to be sure the wax is is ready to be removed.

[brettS4]

Would it help to warm up the wax slightly before applying to the pad?

[expdetailing]

I'm about to go put Son1c Pheonix up against Wolfgang Fuzion and Pinnacle Souveran, and it's 30 degrees outside, and my stomach hurts, so, this will be interesting.
Sorry, that has nothing to do with this thread except that I'm testing Son1c for the first time.

[brettS4]

Take photos and start up a thread. I've been VERY curious about how those three compare.

[geekdout]

The texture of the wax that you mentioned and posted a picture of seems to quite common with homebrews. I have all three of his waxes and so far Phoenix and Carnaubavore have that gritty kinda texture to it.

I would try applying the wax by hand and see how that goes.

[IntricateDetails]

I use Phoenix and have found that it works easiest spread very thin on a microfiber applicator pad. The gritty looking bits will actually melt right into the paint. Use the finger swipe test to see if it's ready to be removed, IE wipe a spot with your finger and if it doesn't smear it's ready to be removed. For me it's similar to use as Dodo Juice waxes.

Wolfgang Fuzion is similar to apply and remove as DP Max Wax, which is my favorite wax for the dollar. Max Wax and Fuzion are almost as easy to use as BFWD sealant, if that helps. I don't have an apples to apples comparison for visible characteristics between these waxes and Fuzion since I used Fuzion only on a friend's red S2000, but for what it's worth, Phoenix was on my red E30 when it won awards at a BMW CCA show and another local show.