Alcohols for final wipe down?

[MarkD51]

Hello folks,

I know many of you suggest always using some type of paint cleaner after a final polishing-glazing paint correction process, and before any LSP is applied, to assure proper bonding results.

But I have thought about Iso alcohols, and recently I mixed up a small solution of 15% alcohol-distilled water mixture, and now remember this alcohol I used was the 70% variety, often referred to as "Rubbing Alcohol".

Now I'm no chemist, but I seem to remember that with 70% Rubbing Alcohol, the other 30% is not just water, that there are other products added (A linament or such?). And the products that are added might hinder rhe cleaning properties.

I'm assuming this is not optimal, that I should be doing a mix from a purer 91% alcohol instead?

What's your thoughts on this?
Thanks, Mark

[Dougw4355]

Hi mark
maybe this article will help


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...n-results.html



Search option is a lifesaver here

[swanicyouth]

Clear isopropyl alcohol for medical use contains nothing else but isopropyl and sterile water - regardless if its 70% or 91%. Occasionally the product will also be available with a coloring in it (often green) and it is the same as above, just has the dye in it - that I wouldn't use.

Ethyl alcohol ("ethanol") is similar to the above, except it contains ethyl (drinking) alcohol, along with lesser amounts if other alcohols (often isopropyl) to "denature" it, or make it poisonous to drink.

There is no benefit to buying 91% isopropyl alcohol over the 70% version of it, other than it would take less "product" (90% alcohol) to dilute it down to your desired concentration. The "purity" of the product is identical.

However, the cost of 90% isopropyl often outstrips any benefit that is gained from "product saved" when using less of the stronger product.

[Johny B]

Clear isopropyl alcohol for medical use contains nothing else but isopropyl and sterile water - regardless if its 70% or 91%. Occasionally the product will also be available with a coloring in it (often green) and it is the same as above, just has the dye in it - that I wouldn't use.

Ethyl alcohol ("ethanol") is similar to the above, except it contains ethyl (drinking) alcohol, along with lesser amounts if other alcohols (often isopropyl) to "denature" it, or make it poisonous to drink.

There is no benefit to buying 91% isopropyl alcohol over the 70% version of it, other than it would take less "product" (90% alcohol) to dilute it down to your desired concentration. The "purity" of the product is identical.

However, the cost of 90% isopropyl often outstrips any benefit that is gained from "product saved" when using less of the stronger product.

Well said.

[billmac]

Great Information

[ww2717]

I have been getting 99% medical grade alcohol from work that we use to clean fiber optic cables with .

[MarkD51]

Many thanks folks, for your advice, and for the links to Mike's Tutorials-Articles.

I guess my previous notions about 70% IPA are indeed false. I also did do a quick search on 70% IPA MSDS, and you folks are correct, it is only alcohol, and water, no other additives.

But as Mike explains in his articles, and as some others might say, there can be risks with alcohols on certain paints, and/or if improperly used.

Thus, it might be wise for me at some near future point to acquire some of these good paint cleaning products which are solely designed for this purpose.

Is it correct then, that on plastics, and trim, alcohol will pretty much be an easily gotten go-to product to first strip, and prep these materials for treatment of the cutting edge synthetic protectants-rejuvenators-restorers?
Mark

[FUNX650]

I have been getting 99% medical grade alcohol from work that we use to clean fiber optic cables with .

Upon awakening to, and discovering, a rather refreshing 18 F (windchill-y) Ohio-morn…
-I have also found, per the above quoted posting, that it is not so quite refreshing,
to read, admittedly: Moral flexibility.

-With the costs associated with "Medical Grade" alcohols being acute, in comparison to their OTC
"Medicinal-Grade" cousins…I doubt very seriously that a Company condones its expropriation.
(I could be wrong though.)


Nonetheless...
-I’m a firm believer that a person that has a healthy work/life balance
is more apt to act ethically---while at either venue.

However…
-The above posting of this particular: "How To"… seemingly makes it appear that,
if one opts to follow its 'directions', one may be either a:
Kleptomaniac, survivalist, cheapskate, a garden-variety basic thief, or a combination thereof.

-I can only suggest that a person exhibiting such "character" traits seek:
Professional "Medical Grade-treatment". ASAP!!


And…(afterall):
-Most well-versed HR personnel have heard, and have grown wearisome, of the excuse/cliché:

"This (expletives deleted) Company doesn’t pay me enough not to steal"!


This is, of course, JMHO...
-To be taken with a grain of salt---not grain-alcohol.

Bob

[andres]

How much 70% IPA is required to make one liter (approximately 1.06 US quart) to produce a final 10% dilution of IPA?
Solution: Let X be the amount of 70% alcohol required. The final concentration will be 10% alcohol and 85% H2O. Therefore,
70% X = 10% x (1.06 quart)
Solving for: X = (10 x 1.06) / 70 = 0.15 quarts (or one sixth of a quart).
If starting with 90% IPA, then the amount required to produce 15% final concentration is: (15/90)(1.06)=0.12 quarts (or three twenty 25th parts of a quart).
In general, to obtain a desired volume of IPA at any final %, it is required an X amount of initial % IPA according to the following formula:
X (off-the-counter IPA) = (final % desired divide by off-the-counter %) times desired volume

[ww2717]

I happen to purchase i the alcohol through our company supplier with my own funds Sir I just refereneced to the fact that we use it for cleaning fiber. I also have bought it on amazon. Back to the topic at hand.