Help detailer trashed my paint!

[BMack]

Good to see a fellow Moparian! Do you also have a Scatpack?

Thanks i will keep you posted, seems to be if I used UP with black pad, doing 3 passes with pressure and then 2 with no pressure almost all the micromarring is gone. I did prime the pad with N-914 diluted at a rinseless ratio. UP was a pain for me to remove. It removed fine, but the panel wipedown caused a lot of smearing. I am seeing some dots but seems to be from all my road trips per this thread


https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...t-issue-3.html

I will say the UP was dusting a bit more and my PC was stalling on the hood with all the curves. So I decided to try essence, which I read a lot of people here used successfully on the new Mopars (a lot of hellcats). I'm all about saving my time at this point lol.

I liked the new Boss cream because it has no silicone or fillers. Being my car is daily driven sun or rain, I decided to let Essence full and make the paint pop rather than kill myself perfecting a daily driver.

I've had other Dodge Chargers and 300s (05 to 2013) prior to my 2016 and then defiantly had harder paint.

Yep, it's a Scat Pack. I love it.

I've got the same little dots all over the lower front bumper. I figured it was just from debris on the road and am not worried about it too much. Not enough to wet sand or re-spray anyway. The larger panels with marring concern me more.

I don't have any experience with Griot's polishes but you should be good since they don't have fillers. Should be just a matter of finding the right pad/polish combination, which can be frustrating.

What are you wiping down with? A good panel wipe should just clear off the UP and not leave any smearing.

Lots of good info here so I'm sure other people with much more experience than I can weigh in.

[392hemi]

Yep, it's a Scat Pack. I love it.

I've got the same little dots all over the lower front bumper. I figured it was just from debris on the road and am not worried about it too much. Not enough to wet sand or re-spray anyway. The larger panels with marring concern me more.

I don't have any experience with Griot's polishes but you should be good since they don't have fillers. Should be just a matter of finding the right pad/polish combination, which can be frustrating.

What are you wiping down with? A good panel wipe should just clear off the UP and not leave any smearing.

Lots of good info here so I'm sure other people with much more experience than I can weigh in.

Love the 392!

I'm wiping with n-914 diluted at 1:8 as a paint prep. I also have Eraser. Will finish Eraser up.

Wiping UP with just a MF cloth wipes clean, the will with N-914 started to show smears as it removed the polishing oils. I tried it with Griots and there was no oily residue being removed.

I'll update once I recieve my new shipment from here.

[BMack]

Love the 392!

I'm wiping with n-914 diluted at 1:8 as a paint prep. I also have Eraser. Will finish Eraser up.

Wiping UP with just a MF cloth wipes clean, the will with N-914 started to show smears as it removed the polishing oils. I tried it with Griots and there was no oily residue being removed.

I'll update once I recieve my new shipment from here.

Did you have any luck?

Nothing I ordered was able to finish off the re-sprayed panel correctly. I just ordered Griot's Perfecting Cream and their yellow pad so I'm hoping that might work better.

[392hemi]

Did you have any luck?

Nothing I ordered was able to finish off the re-sprayed panel correctly. I just ordered Griot's Perfecting Cream and their yellow pad so I'm hoping that might work better.

I recieved my package but unfortunately I pulled my back and can't do much of anything, I haven't even opened the box. The humidity and heat has also been horrible. I'm hoping I'm well enough to try it by this Sunday.

I also really badly have been wanting to upgrade to a G21 or Rupes, but an upcoming move in a week is holding me back (more #### to pack and move &#128529

[BMack]

I recieved my package but unfortunately I pulled my back and can't do much of anything, I haven't even opened the box. The humidity and heat has also been horrible. I'm hoping I'm well enough to try it by this Sunday.

I also really badly have been wanting to upgrade to a G21 or Rupes, but an upcoming move in a week is holding me back (more #### to pack and move ��)

Seems like something always comes up. I've been at this for 2 months. If I could have a do-over I'd go with a Rupes or Griot's Boss DA rather than a cheap TorqX. I way underestimated the amount of work. Almost done now, though, as soon as I can lock in the re-sprayed panel. If Griot's Perfecting Cream doesn't work my last alternative will be Scholl S-40.

Hope you can get back at it soon!

[392hemi]

Thanks I'll definitely update my findings and pics. Keep me posted how it works for you.

I'm hoping to try again this weekend, sucks because I need to rewash. If I'm not feeling 100 percent maybe I'll wash and polish the car in portions lol.

My PC stalling is tempting me to get a new machine, just don't want to buy something to only have to put it in storage while I find a new place.

[osiapstndp]

My PC stalling is tempting me to get a new machine, just don't want to buy something to only have to put it in storage while I find a new place.

The majority of my customers are modern Mopar. I normally don't bother with a free-spinning machine and use a Flex 3401 instead. Last year I went through phases where I'd use a Griot's Garage Boss G15 but this year I've used it maybe only a handful of times. Stalling on curved edges and contours is no fun, but can be mitigated. Some folks do edging work first with, for example, a smaller pad and machine, and then get the large and flatter pieces complete with a bigger pad. There are a lot of ways to use a free-spinning machine to get the job done, but everyone has a preference and opinion. I prefer a force-rotation machine and the Flex 3401 fits well.

A lot of folks want a two-step (cutting and then refinement) job on their Mopar. Below is a list of what I found works very well for all sort of refinishing scenarios for Challengers, Chargers and 300s.

1. Lake Country Hybrid Force grey heavy cut pads and Griot's Garage Boss Fast Correcting Cream. Change to an orange Force pad to level medium to minor defects.

2. Lake Country Hybrid Force white polishing pads and Meguiar's M205, Boss Perfecting Cream, or Optimum Hyper Polish. If the customer wants the job done sooner, and they're not getting a coating, then a finishing polish can be substituted for Boss Finishing Sealant, McKee's 360, or whatever high quality cleaner-wax/all-in-one product meets one's preference. CarPro Essence is a good choice too, but i wouldn't put much stock in its ability to protect the paintwork for an appreciable amount of time. Others may have a different opinion about the product Use a black Force finishing pad if there is very little micro-marring or hazing from the cutting step.

I use the same abrasive products with a G15, but the pads are replaced with Boss microfiber, white fast correcting, orange correcting and yellow polishing pads.

In regard to removing product residue after compounding and polishing, it is helpful to use a microfiber towel that is damp with rinseless solution. McKee's N914 and D114 work very well for this, but even a towel that is damp with distilled water will help to reduce accidentally marring the surface if there is a concern about it. A wet towel isn't a replacement for a real panel wipe but it helps to remove the bulk of the residue.

[dlc95]

I've done some finishing with M205 on green buff and shine pads as a follow up to rotary/wool on an old PC 7424. Speed 5 works fine. Four small drops to start, and two or three to reload.

The guy at the helm of the shop likes Menzerna MC2500 as his follow up to the aggressive compounding step. He uses buff and shine urofiber pads, but I think I have him converted to foam. He likes the orange Lake Country CCS.

Today on a Dodge 200 I used the Rupes Duetto/Mini with their keramik fine cut Polish and yellow microfiber pads.

In general, the more humid the condition, the more dust I get. That day was the first time I ever had M205 dust on me - however, I've have that particular pour off bottle for a while now..

He only seems to call me in when he has black paint that needs heavy cutting/polishing lol!

[dlc95]

The majority of my customers are modern Mopar. I normally don't bother with a free-spinning machine and use a Flex 3401 instead. Last year I went through phases where I'd use a Griot's Garage Boss G15 but this year I've used it maybe only a handful of times. Stalling on curved edges and contours is no fun, but can be mitigated. Some folks do edging work first with, for example, a smaller pad and machine, and then get the large and flatter pieces complete with a bigger pad. There are a lot of ways to use a free-spinning machine to get the job done, but everyone has a preference and opinion. I prefer a force-rotation machine and the Flex 3401 fits well.

A lot of folks want a two-step (cutting and then refinement) job on their Mopar. Below is a list of what I found works very well for all sort of refinishing scenarios for Challengers, Chargers and 300s.

1. Lake Country Hybrid Force grey heavy cut pads and Griot's Garage Boss Fast Correcting Cream. Change to an orange Force pad to level medium to minor defects.

2. Lake Country Hybrid Force white polishing pads and Meguiar's M205, Boss Perfecting Cream, or Optimum Hyper Polish. If the customer wants the job done sooner, and they're not getting a coating, then a finishing polish can be substituted for Boss Finishing Sealant, McKee's 360, or whatever high quality cleaner-wax/all-in-one product meets one's preference. CarPro Essence is a good choice too, but i wouldn't put much stock in its ability to protect the paintwork for an appreciable amount of time. Others may have a different opinion about the product Use a black Force finishing pad if there is very little micro-marring or hazing from the cutting step.

I use the same abrasive products with a G15, but the pads are replaced with Boss microfiber, white fast correcting, orange correcting and yellow polishing pads.

In regard to removing product residue after compounding and polishing, it is helpful to use a microfiber towel that is damp with rinseless solution. McKee's N914 and D114 work very well for this, but even a towel that is damp with distilled water will help to reduce accidentally marring the surface if there is a concern about it. A wet towel isn't a replacement for a real panel wipe but it helps to remove the bulk of the residue.

How long is the cutting step taking?

I'm also finding that the random orbitals give up the ghost on some of the curves and contours. Thus most of our heavy lifting is with the Makita 9237 / Megs wool pad / M100/HC400.

I want to say depending on the vehicle I'm at 2.5 - 3.5 hours to cut with that combo.