using the right amount of wax

[manman]

I know that every situation is different (product, ambient temp, etc) and that there's no one way to be sure, but just want to make sure I'm following the right guidelines here as some of this info can be confusing...

I'll be doing my first wax (using DA, but never even done it by hand before) using dodo juice SN. I was looking at the video here for advice and it looks good:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xJH_MGgbLw]How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine apply both a paint sealant and a finishing wax - YouTube[/video]

But a few days ago, I also read a post by someone talking about how they used too much wax. I think the indication was a loss of luster/haze or something. But the comments were talking about how it's common for first timers to use too much wax, or basically layer it on too thick, and that you want to spread it out extremely thin. People were giving advice that they typically only do one or two panels at a time and come back and wipe off etc.

In the video it looks like the wax is applied pretty thick- at least enough that it's easily visible in a youtube video, so I imagine in person you can see it very well. The whole car is also done at once as opposed to doing a few panels and coming back to wipe off (but you also have 2 people working at once, so maybe that's part of it). Are there some good guidelines on how to use the right amount of wax/when it's spread thinly enough?

I know I have to just practice and learn on my own, but It's always good to do your research and avoid as many mistakes as possible from the beginning!

I don't have any microfiber bonnets, so I'll also be removing both my sealant (wolfgang DGPS) and wax by hand. Anything I should know about removing the sealant by hand vs. machine as in the video?

Thanks!

[hernandez.art13]

This video was great and gave me an idea. I wonder what the results would be for the final wipe, if using a spray wax for added lubricity and even more protection. (Just wondering)

I always compare Detailing to the human body so people can understand.
Imagine coming out fresh out of the shower. All clean then one would have to dry themselves. After drying one self, you put on lotion to protect your skin.

Of course one would not be able to bath in lotion because you'd have a big mess. Same applies to car paint.

This is just my opinion feel free to correct me if I'm wrong

Side Note: you can't top the human body with additional lotion. Lol probably could but would be a waste of money and time, plus you don't want to go out super duper shiny lol :P

[mwoolfso]

Manman, just do it. You seem ready simply because you are asking questions. Start off slow and steady and simply be stingy with how much wax you re-apply on the pad. You will get the hang of it with a little bit of practice.

[hernandez.art13]

Also do a little test spot and figure that out first before you go wax your entire vehicle and you have big major issues.

You should be fine especially cos you've been studying this whole process.

Remember baby steps

Good Luck!

Art

[Evan.J]

When applying wax always be sure to read the label each wax is different. Some wax can be applied and then wiped off right away while othe may have to haze over for a short period of time.

Always apply you wax very thin. You should barely be able to see it this will make removal much easier. You may apply a second coat if you would like. This will ensure an even application and to ensure you didn't miss any spots.

[Christopher.Brown]

@manman .... lol MANly name

Heres a way to test if youe using enough of any product.

Although i have a caveat to this. When compounding or polishing i purposely try to use a little bit too much to avoid dry buffing.

However with wax or most other products which are applied to panels panels you can do the following:


WINDOW KISS TO TEST PRODUCT AMOUNT ON APPLICATOR:

Apply a small amount of product for your process, obviously noting how much you put on, then do your section.

Now take the applicator and kiss the window with it. If it makes a design with the product that is an impression of the will size of the applicator with even product across the window impression, then you know you are using the right amount.


A NOTE ABOUT APPLICATOR PADS:
For foam, micro fiber, etc. When you first start out you need to prime them. Meaning you put the product directly onto the pad, probably in the ballpark of 25-30% more than you normally would to get it saturated into the pad and ready for working. So for example if megs 205 required 3 pea sized product dollops then you would prime it with 5 to get the pad ready for polishing

This might be a debated point here, but i use a QD [quick detail] spray as part of the priming and reapplication process. Meaning i put the product on the pad and give a 1/2 squirt of a very fine mist. This provides great lubrication and easier spreading of the product.

Once you use your product and pads enough under different conditions, heat, humidity factor, etc you will learn how much they need for the optimal amount of product that is ample coverage without waste.

hope this helps

[Christopher.Brown]

And also since this if your first time using a DA [and waxing for that matter ----- HOW EXCITING ] remember to go slowly and remember that developing proper technique is the first and foremost objective here. SPEED WILL COME WITH EXPERIENCE

youd always rather go slower, knowing youre doing everything capably than try to rush, then find you have to go back and fix everything and make yourself feel like a dumba$$$

you have read the forums here and can watch a lot of competent people on youtube do it. So watch 10 videos take notes and go and have fun.

remember to be patient with yourself... something i dont do very well... it will help

and the finished results will spur you onto try again and again and again

[Setec Astronomy]

I think this loose quote from another forum was about Klasse SG, but I think it applies to newbies applying any LSP "if you think you are applying it thin, you're using too much".

[manman]

ok, ok, I know I just need to do it... You're right, I've been doing a lot of research, and sometimes I find things that seem to conflict (like in this case, should I see a haze of product after applying, or should it be so thin I can't see it)... But it probably just has to do with different products/situations, and I'm sure I"m just overthinking it. In my mind when I try something new, I always want perfection, but I know that in the beginning I'll make mistakes no matter what and I just gotta learn from it...

Still, like I said- it's always good to learn as much as you can and avoid as many mistakes as you can up front! I got that drilled into my head by my dad when I was young- "do it right the first time!" haha.

But yeah, I have all my products, gear, microfibers and have done the research, so I should be ready. Just last minute questioning myself. Ready to get on with it this weekend; I'll take some pics on how it came out. Jet Black E46 M3, so if I do a good job it should really show

[c8n]

If you have enough light, you will see the wax. On lighter color cars, this might be an issue and you will need tons of light.

DGPS, at least in my experience was thicker than the others I have used and I set my DA at speeds between 3 and 4.

DGPS will need to haze and again from my experience, depending on the humidity, took anywhere from 20-45 minutes for it to haze.