LSP stripping

[FUNX650]

what about finish kare soil and coating remover

Since this is "Step#1" and is a highly alkaline product...Then:

It would probably be best to continue on with the entire FinishKare Decontamination System's regimen
in order to not possibly cause any harm to the vehicle's paint system...or any Human-beings...IMHO.
(I feel the same way towards Valugard's ABC decontamination system, as well.)


BTW:
-I also still like to use polishes to clean paint.
-Even AIO paint cleaners!
-(And 3M Imperial Hand Glaze)

There are, indeed, so many ways/products to clean paint!!

I would not use anything more than 50% IPA just to be safe.

Would you please explain how you believe a ~50% IPA solution (I'll assume using distilled water)
will be safer than, say: a ~60-75% IPA solution? Thanks.

NOTE:
When I happenstance to use an IPA-solution/"Diluted"-CarPro's-Eraser...
I follow the guidelines proffered by several Chemists (including those from Meguiar's and Optimum Polymer Technologies)...
That being:
I know I won't use above ~15% IPA solution on vehicles' paint....Especially if it's a BC/CC paint system.

Why take the chance?!?!




Bob

[PiPUK]

definitely could be. Hopefully he returns to us with some more info on paint cleaners.

The point I was making was that it is very easy to mask an LSP with surfactants which make it appear as though the LSP has been removed. I could not be so generic with paint cleansers because they are not all equal. More than that, it will depend upon application method (e.g. apply with machine and a cleanser will be a whole lot more effective).

I would not use anything more than 50% IPA just to be safe.

I know Mike has his beliefs about IPA concentration but I have never had any issue. Ive immersed painted test strips in IPA for weeks on end without any damage. That said, I could not rule out a temporary softening effect but, since I am not doing any kind of polishing, this is not something which is a concern to me.

Again, the take home message is that surfactants stick. Just because you ran your hose over a surface and it does not bead anymore, does not mean that your LSP is removed.

[ihaveacamaro]

The point I was making was that it is very easy to mask an LSP with surfactants which make it appear as though the LSP has been removed. I could not be so generic with paint cleansers because they are not all equal. More than that, it will depend upon application method (e.g. apply with machine and a cleanser will be a whole lot more effective).



I know Mike has his beliefs about IPA concentration but I have never had any issue. Ive immersed painted test strips in IPA for weeks on end without any damage. That said, I could not rule out a temporary softening effect but, since I am not doing any kind of polishing, this is not something which is a concern to me.

Again, the take home message is that surfactants stick. Just because you ran your hose over a surface and it does not bead anymore, does not mean that your LSP is removed.

so what method do you use while using paint cleaners to 100% ensure surface no longer has LSP on it?

[FUNX650]

so what method do you use while using paint cleaners to 100% ensure surface no longer has LSP on it?

HI Roshan...

Even though I'm not AGO forum member PiPUK...
What is your definition of a "paint cleaner"?

Since I've given several examples of "paint cleaners" that I've used:
Will you provide an example, or more, of ones you've used? Thanks.



Bob

[PiPUK]

so what method do you use while using paint cleaners to 100% ensure surface no longer has LSP on it?

To date nothing short of polish is guaranteed. Chemically, solvent degreasers are most likely to succeed but it is important to check by rinsing very thoroughly with hot water or similar to ensure none of the emulsifying solvents remain.

[BillE]

Great conversation Gentlemen...

Bill

[SR99]

At times during this discussion I think we might be conflating two separate but related questions:

1) What product XYZ do you use to strip LSP ABC?
2) How do you tell if XYZ completely removed LSP ABC?

Originally, PiPUK showed that certain XYZ+ABC combinations can fool you into believing that ABC was removed, because it leaves a film that acts like parched paint when exposed to water (visually, flat sheets of water, not beading). After removing that film using isopropyl alcohol, the paint was beading again, indicating XYZ didn't actually remove ABC entirely.

This might be because XYZ is not the right product for removing ABC, or it might be that it takes several applications of XYZ to remove ABC. We still don't know if XYZ might be effective at removing some other LSP.

As far as question #2 (how to tell if the LSP is completely removed), PiPUK showed that just looking at beading is not foolproof.

So it seems what is really needed is a foolproof answer to question #2 before question #1 can be answered more generally, for any LSP + remover combination.

We know that visual lack of beading alone is not enough. Does anyone use another method to judge if the LSP is completely removed? I'll admit to thinking that was enough, prior to this thread.

[Tinwhiskers]

Pip, you are the Fox Mulder of the detailing world. Keep up the great work. The truth is out there!

[KillaCam]

I would wash with a strong mix of whatever soap you're using, and then follow up with something like Duragloss squeaky clean.

[FUNX650]

So it seems what is really needed is a foolproof answer to question #2
before question #1 can be answered more generally,
for any LSP + remover combination.

I've asked, on several occasions, why this "need" some folks seem to have in wanting to "strip LSP's"?!?!

In the overall scheme of things...
Don't most LSP's (besides what's alleged by some of the 'Coatings') have what I'll refer to as: a rather short-lived life-cycle?

At that point in its life-cycle, where "refreshing" of an LSP is deemed necessary by an individual, would seem, to me,
to be a most apropos time to perform the following to a vehicle:
-Wash;
-Dry;
-Clay (only if by a revelation from the "Baggie-Test");
-Optional use of a "decontamination-system" (frequency: vehicle's environment, etc., etc., etc.)
-Compound/polish...per: paintwork-assessment/"Test-Spot";
-Application of a different LSP, if desirous to do so.

We know that visual lack of beading alone is not enough.
Does anyone use another method to judge if the LSP is completely removed?

It's difficult for some folks to put a whole lot of trust into some fellow detailing-forums' members postings at times...
Perhaps you'll feel the same towards what I'm going to post below.

But/However:
A visit to one, or more, of your local body shops, and having a conversation with their painter(s) while broaching this:
total removal of LSP's subject matter...should be found to be most enlightening...and entertaining as well.

It has been, over the years, for me.




Bob