LSP stripping

[Rmd]

If you take a panel and compound it then completely remove all the oils. Wax 1 side and leave the other bare. Wash it 3 times with that DuPont wax remover without cheating. Then do an IPA wipedown on both sides and I guarantee they will both bead and sheet the same.

So if bare paint beads/sheets water, and an LSP beads/sheets water, then what condition accounts for paint that doesn't bead/sheet water? Surfectants in the shampoo? If so, then a shampoo that leaves nothing behind like Carpro reset should always increase beading, either by leaving the LSP as the only substance on the paint, or by leaving the paint bare. Has anyone tested this? Seems like it would be interesting.

[Eldorado2k]

its a nice experiment but it doesn't "prove" anything. how do we know its not just clean clear coat beading the water? new paint does that.

Define “new paint”

As far as your other statements, are they based on your opinion? Or based on your experience? Because I believe 1 of your posts said “think”, but none of them describe any sort of testing you may have done in order to come to your conclusions. If you have done some kind of testing of your own then lets hear it. There’s plenty of open ears.


Now as far as bare paint beading water... While it’s not impossible, I say [based on my experience] it’s not usually the case. Glass is a whole nother story, as it’s rare for me to see glass that doesn’t bead [whether it’s bare or not]. But paint? Nah, bare paint doesn’t bead unless it’s the rare exception.

You mention IPA, polish, TFR, wax striping soaps, but there’s another player in the game you seem to have forgotten about, and that’s clay. I also believe you’re giving the very thin layer of wax/sealant/etc. way too much credit when in reality it’s maximum potential of protection in the best case scenario pales in comparison to the actual clearcoat, which is the Real thing that’s protecting the paint, and there’s alot of proof that the clearcoat can survive for many many years without ever being waxed at all. But lets not get off topic.

My point is that wax isn’t as durable as you might think, and a good claying can render it gone. I see it happen whenever my goal is to do so.

And this is what clean clayed bare paint looks like. No polishing oils, no nothing. And certainly no beading. Just bare paint because clay doesn’t leave any possible surfactants, etc. behind.







What do you guys think?

[FUNX650]

Some automotive clay bars
contain surfactants.


Bob

[Eldorado2k]

Some automotive clay bars
contain surfactants.


Bob

Which ones?

Btw I used this clay mitt on that paint in the pic. Claymitt package doesn’t state anything about it containing surfactants, so I think it doesn’t apply in my case?

[FUNX650]

Some automotive clay bars
contain surfactants.

Additionally:

Many automotive clay “lubricants”
(that are often used in conjunction with
not only automotive clay bars, but also
with decontamination blocks/mitts/sponges/
cloths/etc.) also contain surfactants.


Bob

[Eldorado2k]

Additionally:

Many automotive clay “lubricants”
(that are often used in conjunction with
not only automotive clay bars, but also
with decontamination blocks/mitts/sponges/
cloths/etc.) also contain surfactants.


Bob

Yes, I already knew you would say that... [2 seconds after I posted my question that’s what I correctly predicted] lol.

But what about the claybars? Interested to know which claybars contain surfactants as opposed to which ones don’t.

[fightnews]

How do you personally determine if a painted surface is clear of lsp?

I only do my own car and im always polishing and applying a new lsp before the duration is up. Plus I use a spray every wash, and wash 1x a week. I've never tried to get the maximum time out of anything.

[fightnews]

Define “new paint”

As far as your other statements, are they based on your opinion? Or based on your experience? Because I believe 1 of your posts said “think”, but none of them describe any sort of testing you may have done in order to come to your conclusions. If you have done some kind of testing of your own then lets hear it. There’s plenty of open ears.


Now as far as bare paint beading water... While it’s not impossible, I say [based on my experience] it’s not usually the case. Glass is a whole nother story, as it’s rare for me to see glass that doesn’t bead [whether it’s bare or not]. But paint? Nah, bare paint doesn’t bead unless it’s the rare exception.

You mention IPA, polish, TFR, wax striping soaps, but there’s another player in the game you seem to have forgotten about, and that’s clay. I also believe you’re giving the very thin layer of wax/sealant/etc. way too much credit when in reality it’s maximum potential of protection in the best case scenario pales in comparison to the actual clearcoat, which is the Real thing that’s protecting the paint, and there’s alot of proof that the clearcoat can survive for many many years without ever being waxed at all. But lets not get off topic.

My point is that wax isn’t as durable as you might think, and a good claying can render it gone. I see it happen whenever my goal is to do so.

And this is what clean clayed bare paint looks like. No polishing oils, no nothing. And certainly no beading. Just bare paint because clay doesn’t leave any possible surfactants, etc. behind.







What do you guys think?

No I don't have my own methods for testing or anything like that I just see that all the ways people are saying they can tell are flawed. None of them are conclusive. We would need some kind of a swab test or something like that. Something that could detect the presence of wax on a surface. And what concentration of wax constitutes a viable LSP?

All these ways people are talking about remind me of dousing or Ouija boards they are unreliable tests.

Also the clear coat is the paint we are trying to protect, It may be clear but it is still paint. Nobody is waxing to protect the base coat. You can't even get to it?

[Loach]

No way it supercharged anything, you are dealing with a clean painted surface there thats all IMO. Unless you can prove a wax is still on there?

The beading of Glasur is supercharged as a baseline compared to most other waxes. I could tell the surfactants of the previous products had a slight impact on the surface especially after the heavy Citrus Wash and Gloss dilution. Then after using Duplicolor, not only was there not evidence of a performance impact or removal of Glasur, but the beading actually improved compared to the rinse after Citrus W&G, back to Glasur's normal or "supercharged" performance.

Testing side by side with a control section, in this case Pete's 53, and easily seeing the differences in the water behavior on both sides is proof that the waxes are surviving on the paint. The surface tensions they leave behind are different at the very start, they degrade at different rates and they're impacted by surfactants at different rates. What I do then is compare at the end of strip washing to the panel when it has been polished and washed with the same soaps, the unprotected paint will show a much slower sheet and it will usually develop this slow sheet after the first wash with soap.

[Eldorado2k]

Some automotive clay bars
contain surfactants.


Bob

Still waiting on a reply...