Still getting sanding marks

[Skimmer0220]

uffed out my trunk

This image is pre buffed


Only problem I'm having is i sanded to 2000 but some of the sanding marks aren't coming out I'm using menzerna ip2000 with an orange pad on my griots da followed by ff3000 on a white pad, it seems like the cut isn't aggressive enough, any thoughts?

I do have rotary with a wool pad I could use but the ip2000 claims to take out 2000 grit scratches and I tried using lots pressure and almost no pressure still same results, anything I CPUs try different?


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[hollerstiltner]

I believe IP2000 is rated to take out 2000 grit marks when using a rotary. If I were in your shoes I'd either use the rotary with the wool or sand down with a finer grit paper like 2500 then 3000. Having said that, I've never tried wet sanding and buffing a car. So my advice is only opinion.

Here's an article by Mike on the subject.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ang-twins.html

Hope I helped.
Chris

[Evan.J]

I would agree with Chris,

You would be better off refining the sanding marks to 3000 grit.

Maybe you would even what to get a few Meguiar MF cutting discs as these are great for removing 3000 girt sanding marks.

[Andy B. Cool]

use your rotary with the wool and stay in between speed 2 and 3 don't use a lot of pressure just nice slow hand movement

[Mike Phillips]

Not all, but most "Pro Grade" compounds and polishes, when they state the grit level of sanding marks they'll remove that's in a body shop environment, where MOST sanding is performed. Fresh paint buffs easier than cured factory paint.

I wouldn't tackle any wetsanding project without a true aggressive compound, a wool pad and a rotary buffer. Here's why and this is also what I type all the time...

Sanding down a car, or a panel and the removing your sanding marks already takes a long time, why would I want it to take any longer? Sure you can remove sanding marks with A DA Polisher but you can do it a LOT faster using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a true compound.

The last couple of cars I've sanded down I've used the Meguiar's M100 and man it cuts fast and finishes out nice and wipe-off is easy. Mentioned this in the brand new video we shot with Meguiar's.

I have lots of articles on sanding on my article list, here's one not solely for the OP but for anyone reading this into the future with questions about the topic of wetsanding.

This article really explains the topic well.

Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint

[Skimmer0220]

Alright thanks guys, since I have the rotary and wool ill give that a shot first, the panel I had just repainted so it's fresh paint not cured paint, now would you guys use the ff3000 on a finishing pad on a da?


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[Zapa]

I would recommend moving up to 2500 grit sand paper and then up to 3000 before you start to buff. That should do the trick. When I wet sand something I normally go till 2500 then go to fg400 with a MF cutting pad. Since you dont have that you need to go to a finer grit sandpaper for better results.

[Mike Phillips]

Alright thanks guys, since I have the rotary and wool ill give that a shot first, the panel I had just repainted so it's fresh paint not cured paint,

That should work. I didn't know what you were working on, that's one of the reasons I included the article about wetsanding. The other reason is because a lot of people read these threads into the future that don't know that much about wetsanding and the article explains it pretty well.

Since the paint is fresh, or new, you should be able to buff the sanding marks out pretty easy as wool pads all by themselves are very good at cutting. This is also the reason you never want to finish with wool pads on a rotary buffer on car paints, it will leave it's own "cuts" in the paint and we all call these cuts... holograms...

now would you guys use the ff3000 on a finishing pad on a da?

To finish with? Of just clean up the swirls/holograms left by the wool pad?


Both will work but most people into their car would probably want to finish out using a finer cutting polish for the last machine applied step. Kind of personal preference.

[Skimmer0220]

That should work. I didn't know what you were working on, that's one of the reasons I included the article about wetsanding. The other reason is because a lot of people read these threads into the future that don't know that much about wetsanding and the article explains it pretty well.

Since the paint is fresh, or new, you should be able to buff the sanding marks out pretty easy as wool pads all by themselves are very good at cutting. This is also the reason you never want to finish with wool pads on a rotary buffer on car paints, it will leave it's own "cuts" in the paint and we all call these cuts... holograms...





To finish with? Of just clean up the swirls/holograms left by the wool pad?


Both will work but most people into their car would probably want to finish out using a finer cutting polish for the last machine applied step. Kind of personal preference.

Gotcha ill be doing some experimenting this week and see what I come up with


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[Durallymax]

Wool with IP2000 should get it out, if you do a lot of polishing maybe pick up a bottle of FG400,cuts very fast and finishes beautifully. Very easy to work with.