OT: Why the double post?
Bill
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OT: Why the double post?
Bill
From what I had read it didn't matter when it was applied as long as it was after the 24 cure period of the last application. I don't know maybe I did it wrong. There were so many different answers on how to do it out there. Of course, if I was using this forum back then, my answer would have been more straightforward.
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Yeah I haven't tried coating myself but from what I've gathered it should be applied within 1 hour window. But then again other people would have different methods too.
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I've posted this before, but I feel so ripped off that I feel the need to repost. CG Sprayable Leather is the worst. Shiny, squeaky, and slick. Complete crap.
Regarding Cquartz UK, my understanding is that it's an hour IF you want some protection as the coating is curing. For example, if you have to send a customer car home after applying and it might get wet. I believe if you can't get it at one hour it needs to be at least 24 hours. When I did some testing I had coatings fail when not giving them enough cure time before getting wet. Cure time is also temp and humidity dependent. Unless it's hot out it seems like 24 hour is the absolute minimum cure time before getting them wet.
FYI, I had good results with Cquartz.
You don't need to wait days in between additional coats. 45 min to 1 hour is what is recommended by CarPro. Also Reload can be applied 1 hour after the last coat of CQUK. It is recommended to wait at least 7 days before it gets wet or is washed. Reload is there to protect the coating in case it gets rained on sooner than later. I don't use Reload as it lacks the hydrophobics of Cquartz. But at the same time I am not too concerned with Rain as it does not rain here in Southern California.
What was your prep?
I have been enjoying CQUK 3.0 and and TiO2 and have been having very good results.
Rippy got it correct.
Good point about coatings getting wet to soon.
Guz serious question, 3.0 with gliss or the Ti02...which one di you prefer and why
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Ah; I know - it must be contaminated - try Reset! Or... user error - 24 hrs? Maybe that’s when yr supposed FINISH applying the 2nd coat. If you START at 24 hrs - the whole thing is toast. That’s your problem.
What happens is - the nano bridges are too bi-polar to crosslink with the carrier solution which supports the retarding of the curing process. So, unless it’s topped with Reload v. 2.4a^4 - you’ll be left with water behavior that just doesn’t want to behave.
Of course, your paint is protected. You just need to apply Hydro2 to bring back the beading in each water spot... But, before you do that - clean up the coating with Echo, followed by Eraser, and a good Iron X snow foam. Be aware -using infrared heating lamps during this process may prematurely catalyze the SiO2 in the coating - in effect - making the whole process redundant...So, make sure the humidity is 76-78.5% if you’re using UK v.3. If not, you’ll need our newest version CQ Dubai v2.7 - which was specially formulated to harden in an ozone depleted environment on Lamborghini paint.
What polish did you use? You can only use Essence. Or, Essence +, or Super Essence +++. Or Ultimate Essence #1 +. One of those. I can’t recall. I’d email CarPro. They can clarify this ASAP. Your simply not following directions. Not the directions on the bottle (they’re BS) - but the uber super secret directions that are only mentioned by a guy on a forum via a post I can no longer find. Mods deleted it because it mentioned a brand of special coating towel they don’t sell.
Seriously though... regretful purchase - Master Blaster. A lot of redundant traditional soaps gathering dust. Griots Rubber Cleaner - wasn’t even worth it at BOGO. Meg’s Super Degreaser - couldn’t clean the oil off a salad bowl.