1991 BMW 318i

[wikkid]

Hi guys. I'm looking for advice and suggestions for my Diamondschwartz (metallic very dark gray/black) beemer. The paint was neglected for a long time, like, since new. The pix should tell the story.

The curious thing is that it looks like someone tried some correction randomly on some panels. Again, see pix.

I was thinking of using MF cutting pad(s) after wash/clay; either MF compound or 105. I will have to address the deeper scratches once the car is looking better overall. Also, I guess after the first pass of detailing, before I seal or wax, that would be the best time to address the deep scratches and also to sand and touch up some of the scuffs and rock chips.

The car is in good shape overall, a few small dings here and there, no rust, though (except rock chips). What do you all think?

[wikkid]

Hi guys. I'm looking for advice and suggestions for my Diamondschwartz (metallic very dark gray/black) beemer. The paint was neglected for a long time, like, since new. The pix should tell the story.

The curious thing is that it looks like someone tried some correction randomly on some panels. Again, see pix.

I was thinking of using my DA (PC) and using MF cutting pad(s) after wash/clay; either MF compound or 105. I will have to address the deeper scratches once the car is looking better overall. Also, I guess after the first pass of detailing, before I seal or wax, that would be the best time to address the deep scratches and also to sand and touch up some of the scuffs and rock chips.

The car is in good shape overall, a few small dings here and there, no rust, though (except rock chips). What do you all think?

[Mazda.Mark]

I want to see this thing hammered out good luck man! I think the MF combo is a good start. Do test area and make the corrections...

[KneeDragr]

Wow the 3 series sure has gotten bigger over the years. It looks like a subcompact compared to todays version.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I would jump right in with the mf disc and d300 and see what that does. Should take care most of those issues. Really would like to see some after pics and 50/50's

[DaveT435]

You can definitely make huge improvements. It's nice to take a car with a hammered finish and bring it back to a thing of beauty.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi guys. I'm looking for advice and suggestions for my Diamondschwartz (metallic very dark gray/black) beemer. The paint was neglected for a long time, like, since new. The pix should tell the story.

I think the word neglected is a little weak... maybe abused...

The curious thing is that it looks like someone tried some correction randomly on some panels. Again, see pix.

I was thinking of using my DA (PC) and using MF cutting pad(s) after wash/clay; either MF compound or 105. I will have to address the deeper scratches once the car is looking better overall.

I agree. If the paint can be saved then the M105 and MF pads on a DA would be a safe and effective approach.

Original paint from 1991 and early basecoat/clearcoat technology to boot is pretty old, in fact almost 22 years old.

Let's hope there's no clear coat failure starting...

Beginning Clearcoat Failure

Here is the best example I've been able to find that shows beginning clear coat failure, it's from a thread I created on MeguiarsOnline called the The Clearcoat Failure Photo Archive


Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline




Since I have not been able to find a similar car with the beginning of clear coat failure to photograph for the AG forum, and because this is a very useful picture for helping people diagnose what type of problem they're having with their car's clear coat I've added to the Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive here on AG but have given proper credit to where I obtained the photograph.

Due credit where due credit is due.... which more people would do this...


On AutogeekOnline.com

The Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive

Also, I guess after the first pass of detailing, before I seal or wax, that would be the best time to address the deep scratches and also to sand and touch up some of the scuffs and rock chips.

At this age of the car I would counsel against wetsanding to remove deeper scratches and instead, get the best overall appearance you can using the M105/MF pads on a DA and then learn to live with the deeper scratches due to the age of the paint.

Remember, as the article I posted above points out on page 2 of the thread, the UV Inhibitors in the clear layer have a half life of 5 years. That doesn't bode well for something as old as this...


There's no way to describe the sinking feeling you're heart will get when you buffing on this old BMW and you turn your pad over to clean it and see black paint while trying to remove your sanding marks.

The car is in good shape overall, a few small dings here and there, no rust, though (except rock chips). What do you all think?

Overall condition is good, looks like someone was using the hood for a workbench by the random scratches all over it.


I buffed a similar car out, you can see before and after pictures here,

RIDS and Feathersanding - A Highly Specialized Technique by Mike Phillips








Then down the road a few years this dramatic before and after was used on the label when SwirlX was introduced...

[Mike Phillips]

Hey wikkid,

I merged your two identical threads.

When I found the second thread of the same topic but didn't see my reply, for a second I thought I must have been posting in a dream state...

[wikkid]

I dunno how I messed up with two identical posts. Something with preview and submit buttons, I guess. Anyway, I will definitely take photos as I go; happy to share the experiences.

The haze on the finish seems to be coming just about entirely from surface marks- not swirls from washing or bad buffing (if only that were the case), but straighter, more linear markings. It doesn't look like a cloud or a "bloom," so I am hopeful the clear coat can survive.

You are right that I may just need to get the car looking as good as I can, and live with the patina of deeper scratches, rather than risk cutting too deep. Anything will be an improvement over how the car was when it came to me.

Another detail is the oxidized finish on the anodized aluminum trim around the windows. I've seen some products for that, so I might try them, or I may just tape, fine sand, and use something like Mothers aluminum polish. Sanding off the anodized finish will create an ongoing maintenance job to keep the trim shiny,but it really looks bad, and I don't want to black out the trim with paint on this dark car (if it were a red or white car, I would do it, but not with this color).

[Mike Phillips]

Another detail is the oxidized finish on the anodized aluminum trim around the windows.

Poor design idea on the part of car manufactures because once anodized trim becomes stained and dull there's not much you can do to fix it.

At least not to the extent you can polish uncoated aluminum. I always say "try" but don't hold your breath. Maybe try some M105 on a wool pad on a rotary buffer or by hand with a piece of terry cloth and lots of passion.

Sanding off the anodized finish will create an ongoing maintenance job to keep the trim shiny,

BUT... you can keep it shiny. That' the benefit to uncoated aluminum. Sure it oxidizes but you can do something about it. When it comes to anodizing I've never really seen it an anodized strip of trim restored to the point where you would say,

Gee that looks much better...


It's because anodizing isn't a coating "on" the aluminum, it's a where the surface of the aluminum has been chemically modified, the anodizing is part of the aluminum.


That's why I like and prefer slotted mag wheels. The design never goes out of style and I can maintain them... forever...