New to Machine Polishing, Help Please

[j.robinson389]

As this is my first post here, I'm always afraid of asking the question that has already been asked atleast 100x, but that is the risk I'll take I guess, seems like a great people here.

My Vehicle: 1997 Chevy 1500
Original Paint on the truck except for passenger door and bedside


I am a major DIY type of guy and while I don't have the guts to buy a rotary polisher, I have decided to get the Griot's Garage Random Orbit model, (these forums helped me choose it over the Porter Cable, hope I made a wise choice?)


On to my real question: What products to go with the polisher?


I am open to any product or retailer, but I do have a modest budget. I am hoping to get what I need for Around $100 on top of the polisher itself. What pads should I buy, I was thinking I need 3 different 5.5" ones but which ones?Then on to the polish itself, do I get a 1-step, 2-step, 3-step, etc. . .? Any recommendation would be helpful. Now the process: I was thinking 1. VERY thorough wash & dry 2. Clay bar (recommendations here too please, will any detail spray work for the lubricant or is it special lubricant) 3. Machine polish steps as recommended from you guys hopefully 4. finally a hand wax Is this a good process? Or am I making some major rookie mistakes here? I will attach some pictures of my truck to help out.

Again, I hope I am not making anyone mad by asking questions that a search on this forum could have answered but I am always nervous about reading advice pertaining to a specific application and it be the wrong thing for my case. Feel free to reply with a links to my questions as it might save you some typing. I will try to asnwer any follow up questions asap.

The pictures below are of the typical marring marks on the vehicle and of the one sever spot right on the center crease of my hood (which I assume adds some difficulty to its removal. On the pic of the severe mark, I am not looking to remove the two nicks, but just the marks, which are just slightly felt by my fingernail.









Thanks in advance for all the help! Forums are one of the reasons that makes the internet such a valuable resource!

[Mike Phillips]

Welcome to Autogeek Online!

You're in the right place to get some great help...

You're going to need a compound for that, the forum favorite is either M105 or Ultimate Compound, bot by Meguiar's.



Hang on....

[Mike Phillips]

See my comments in post #10 of this thread started just this morning...


This newbie got results :)


As for using the GG DA Polisher,

Lots of articles in my article list

Check these recent videos out too...

Video: How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine apply both a paint sealant and a finishing wax

Video: How to buff tight areas plus concave and convex curved panels by machine


Lots of tips and techniques...

Here's a tip...


[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QM8PnDooZP8&hd=1]How To Check Pad Rotation on a DA Polisher - YouTube[/video]

[ynkssws6]

Hate to hijack but a question. I've been using UC with my GG DA and GG pad and I just don't see it cutting like I want. It's on a 01 Trans Am. Is it cause my pad is not the equivalent to a LC orange? Or is because I should be using something with more cut like m105? I'm getting frustrated at this point. Thank you.

[Mike Phillips]

Hate to hijack but a question. I've been using UC with my GG DA and GG pad and I just don't see it cutting like I want. It's on a 01 Trans Am. Is it cause my pad is not the equivalent to a LC orange? Or is because I should be using something with more cut like m105? I'm getting frustrated at this point. Thank you.

From memory, the factory paint on a 2001 Trans Am is on the hard side. The Griot's Garage orange pad is a polishing pad.

Get either some foam cutting pads, some microfiber pads or Surbuf pads.


Also, anytime your run into problems removing below surface defects, try,

Shrinking the size of area you work down to a smaller size, this will focus more abrading power to a smaller footprint and then you should start seeing some defect removal.

[BobbyG]

Hate to hijack but a question. I've been using UC with my GG DA and GG pad and I just don't see it cutting like I want. It's on a 01 Trans Am. Is it cause my pad is not the equivalent to a LC orange? Or is because I should be using something with more cut like m105? I'm getting frustrated at this point. Thank you.

Orange pads are light cutting pads meaning they aren't all that aggressive. A yellow foam pad is about the most aggressive foam cutting pad you'll find before you get into the wool pads which work very well on a rotary polisher.

Some of those scratches on the original poster's vehicle are not going to come out, they're simply too deep. Can they be improved? Yes, but these down the center of the hood looks like some refinishing is in order...


Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.


Coarse Green Cutting/Polishing - This foam is of medium density with the ability to level very fine scratches and very light oxidation. Use light swirl removers with this pad.


Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.


White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Green Polishing/Finishing Foam - Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application.

Gray Finishing 6.5 inch Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.


Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.


Red Ultra-soft Wax/Sealant Foam - This soft, imported foam is ideal for applying the final coat of wax or sealant. The foam works especially well when applying liquid waxes or sealants because it is firm enough to keep the majority of the product on the paint, rather than soaking it up. The red foam has no cut or cleaning ability.


Super Soft Gold Jewelling Foam - The CCS Super Soft Gold Jewelling Pad is made of Lake Country's softest foam. Use the gold pad to apply a very fine polish or glaze as the final step of the polishing process. Jewelling is the term coined for this step because it intensifies gloss and reflectivity, like a jewel. The gold foam pad also works well for wax and sealant application.

[ynkssws6]

From memory, the factory paint on a 2001 Trans Am is on the hard side. The Griot's Garage orange pad is a polishing pad.

Get either some foam cutting pads, some microfiber pads or Surbuf pads.


Also, anytime your run into problems removing below surface defects, try,

Shrinking the size of area you work down to a smaller size, this will focus more abrading power to a smaller footprint and then you should start seeing some defect removal.

So the GG pad doesn't even cut? I was under the impression it did. So should I invest in different pads now? If that's the case I think I need a different backing plate, correct? That kinda bums me out because I have a decent amount of the GG orange pads. I know their red pad is for applying waxes/sealants.

I tried making the area I was working on very small basically just around the scratch. Gofast posts on another forum I frequent and from what I've read the GM clear is pretty hard.

Thank you very much for the responses, Mike and Bobby.

[ynkssws6]

TTt. Trying to figure this out. Thanks guys.

[Mike Phillips]

So the GG pad doesn't even cut?

No.

All polishing pads have the ability to cut or REMOVE paint when using an abrasive product but they don't have the SAME ability as a true cutting pad be it foam or fiber.

You wrote,

Hate to hijack but a question. I've been using UC with my GG DA and GG pad and I just don't see it cutting like I want.

By typing like I want, that implies it was cutting, just not as much as you wanted.

The Griot's Garage orange pad is a polishing pad and used with an abrasive it will cut or abrade the paint to level the paint and that's how you remove defects.

It won't cut as fast as a foam cutting pad or a fiber cutting pad like a Microfiber cutting pad or Surbuf pad, or the yellow or orange 5.5" LC foam cutting pads or the 5.5" Cyan Hydro-Tech foam cutting pads.

I was under the impression it did.

It does. See above.

So should I invest in different pads now? If that's the case I think I need a different backing plate, correct? That kinda bums me out because I have a decent amount of the GG orange pads. I know their red pad is for applying waxes/sealants.

I wrote an article just on this topic, I know not everyone reads all my articles but it is available in my article list under,




Buffing Pads - Wool Pads & Foam Pads PLUS Backing Plates

Second article down...

NEW - 5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers

I tried making the area I was working on very small basically just around the scratch. Gofast posts on another forum I frequent and from what I've read the GM clear is pretty hard.

Thank you very much for the responses, Mike and Bobby.

Yep... pretty hard... definitely not soft...

[Kinalyx]

unless your "GM" is actually from Australia. My GTO Clear is so soft, im not allowed to look at it, or it warns me with instant swirling.

My paint hates me