Removing Sealants and Glazes with 'Damp' MF

[Detail_Dude]

Does everyone use 'dry' microfiber cloths to wipe sealants and glazes after application, or do any of you 'dampen' the MFs with a few shots of QD spray?

I read elsewhere that, after applying Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, it is wise to first use a 'damp' MF (with QD spray), then follow with a dry MF.

Can anyone say if this applies to teh other popular selants and glazes typicaly discussed in this forum?

[Bamaboy007]

mine are always dry

[silverfox]

I never touch my paint with a dry MF towel...I always spray a bit of detail spray on the towel first to dampen it. I'm not sure its necessary, but I prefer to error on the side of caution.

[umi000]

Never for sealants - for waxes, sometimes, but most sealants say that getting wet might inhibit cross-linking. Will using a damp towel make a noticeable difference to durability? Maybe not, but I'd rather not take that chance. Of course, I should add that the sealants I've used have all been very easy to buff off (or in some cases, not require buff off at all). Maybe I'd be singing a different tune if I were using KSG, or had thickly applied FK1000P.

[Detail_Dude]

I never touch my paint with a dry MF towel...I always spray a bit of detail spray on the towel first to dampen it. I'm not sure its necessary, but I prefer to error on the side of caution.

I am beginning to think the same way and may lightly hit any MF I use with either QD or water...for a gentler touch.

[Kaban]

some waxes and sealants are a pain in the ass to remove without first dampening the MF towel. Collinite 476 (if applied too thick) and some other sealants (for instance Wolf's Glass Guard... comes off like butter with a damn MF, but just smears around if you try to remove it with a dry MF). So it depends on the situation.

[Detail_Dude]

some waxes and sealants are a pain in the ass to remove without first dampening the MF towel. Collinite 476 (if applied too thick) and some other sealants (for instance Wolf's Glass Guard... comes off like butter with a damn MF, but just smears around if you try to remove it with a dry MF). So it depends on the situation.

Thats' another spin I was trying to put on this. We talk (in these forums) about prming MF's and MF applicators so they absorb less product, right? Well, why not prime with QD rather than the product itself (which I presume costs more money in most cases)?

[rider9195]

Never for sealants - for waxes, sometimes, but most sealants say that getting wet might inhibit cross-linking. Will using a damp towel make a noticeable difference to durability? Maybe not, but I'd rather not take that chance. Of course, I should add that the sealants I've used have all been very easy to buff off (or in some cases, not require buff off at all). Maybe I'd be singing a different tune if I were using KSG, or had thickly applied FK1000P.

I will sometimes mist my MF towel very lightly with a detail spray when removing carnauba waxes only. All the sealants I have wipe off super easy so they are not a problem.

[Kaban]

I mist a little bit of QD on my foam buffing pads too. IOt works super well, makes the rotary work very very smooth. Just mist it once (twice at most) or you will be diluting the polish way too much and make a big mess. Mist once and you'll see a huge difference. Been doing it for a while and I love it.

[Detail_Dude]

I mist a little bit of QD on my foam buffing pads too. IOt works super well, makes the rotary work very very smooth. Just mist it once (twice at most) or you will be diluting the polish way too much and make a big mess. Mist once and you'll see a huge difference. Been doing it for a while and I love it.

I do the same when buffing with my PC 7424 XP. Thanks vm.