Winter Prep AIO/LSP recommendations - something yet to be discovered?

[sparty]

First, sorry for the long-winded post.....

I am in the process of putting together a product list for winter prep/detail on higher-end vehicles (ex. BMW, Benz, Audi). I would like to get a deeper gloss on the darker cars from what I have in the past.

I plan on doing an AIO after wash and clay for my clients that do not want or need a 2 or 3 step process prior to application of the LSP.

I have been researching the heck out of AIOs and sprayable LSP on the forum and re-evaluating products I have used in the past. Also, I have set some parameters the product must fall within: Must be able to buy in bulk (gallon size), easy to work with (ex. mid/mild cut slight correction, easy clean-up, won’t stain trim, etc.), DURABILITY, provides a nice finish using a LC white/gray pad, and finally, cost.

Three past AIO products and LSP combos I have used:

1. Klasse AIO and Collonite 845: (found Klasse to be finicky to use and clean, decent finish, semi-durable - but 845 makes it bomber (durable), slick and has some depth, inexpensive) con: time consuming

2. M151 and Megs Ult. Liquid Wax: (semi-easy to apply and clean, good amount of cut, 151 not super durable, but ULW helps, inexpensive, slick finish not deep) con: durability

3. Duragloss 105 and Aquawax: (easy to apply and clean, good cleaning ability and slight finish improvement, very durable, super-slickness but not deep, inexpensive) con: lack of depth

My current research has me looking into the following combination:

Optimum Poly Seal topped with OCW: I can get it in bulk, and it won’t totally break the bank but what about ease of use, durability, finish quality (look)? My research has revealed that the durability is 5 months +/- and the finish quality is darn good. It should also be a fairly quick process with the OCW as LSP.

Basically, I am looking for a thumbs up or down. Have I already used a great combination and failed to realize it or is there something to be discovered?

Thanks,
Sparty

[embolism]

poliseal topped with OCW is your best bet

pair it with the new MF polishing pads and you should be golden on those hard paints...

[Meticulous-Detail]

My vote is DG 105/501 topped with 845.

[embolism]

501 isn't going to correct much though...

with poliseal, if you need some more cut, then you can mix in some polish II

[Dr Oldz]

Poliseal and OCW is indeed an easy to use, provide great results and will be durable for 3+months IME. Durabity can vary on many things as you well know. Poli seal is a great and easy to use product but will not cut as well as 151 keeping all other variables the same.

Since it seems you aren't using an AIO as a true one step product and willing to top it.... May I suggest Menz Power Finish as a one step polish followed by 915. That will give you the look and durabilityl you seem to be after with a good amount of correction.

The difference between the two combos IME is the poliseal and OCW is super easy and provides nice results. Where the Menz and 915 will be a bit more time consuming but provide better durability, and better correction.

Kinda depends on what trade offs you are willing to compromise.

[toycar18]

I have heard great things about XMT 360

Only comes in 16oz and 32oz size. I would talk to AG about a gallon size. I am sure it could be done since there parent company is the manufacturer.

[Vegas Transplant]

I think that you have researched well. Happy trails

[Vegas Transplant]

forgot these (as requested).

[Beechkid]

For specific swirl mark issues I use BAF/Pro Car Care Beauty Products P21 Swirl Eliminator & Polish- although for 30 years I used 3M products specifically, recently I have not been as pleased with the quality of 3M’s hand glaze. I typically do not like "combination" type products but P21 is very, very impressive & effective from end result, ease of use & overall effectiveness.


The absolute best ($ for $) IMHO is "Satin Cream" (for dark colors), it is made by BAF & distributed through Pro Car Care products. It is very easy to work with...... It has the same acrylic hardener as the high dollar paint sealants but it has 30% German imported carnauba....no, your arm will not fall off putting it on or taking it off & it has a very mild polish in it as well. Even parking the vehicle outside, the MFG gives a 6 months warranty before another application is required. I use this personally on my toys & daily drivers (which include a 1997 black Cougar sport) and all I can tell you are not even bugs like to stick to the paint- most of the time when water is applied they just float off- bird poop is just as easy. No smeary look either- very clean clear deep look. On my toys, I give them a fresh coat about every 2 years (literally, even for a show), my daily drivers (I have one that sits outside), I apply to the entire vehicle every 6 months, and do the hood, roof and trunk every 3 months (probably overkill, but I know it is well protected from the elements including industrial fallout)
BAF Industries 800-437-9893........I evaluate products as to my own vehicles
since I know how they are maintained, what they are exposed to etc, and can then really give a good in depth, assessment.








With regards to Clay Bar, Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche/BMW all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

If you are using Meg's...it is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe the paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

[sparty]

Poliseal and OCW is indeed an easy to use, provide great results and will be durable for 3+months IME. Durabity can vary on many things as you well know. Poli seal is a great and easy to use product but will not cut as well as 151 keeping all other variables the same.

Since it seems you aren't using an AIO as a true one step product and willing to top it.... May I suggest Menz Power Finish as a one step polish followed by 915. That will give you the look and durabilityl you seem to be after with a good amount of correction.

The difference between the two combos IME is the poliseal and OCW is super easy and provides nice results. Where the Menz and 915 will be a bit more time consuming but provide better durability, and better correction.

Kinda depends on what trade offs you are willing to compromise.

Thank you all for the great suggestions. On vehicles that have more visible paint defects I go straight for a 2 or 3 step process if I can convince my clients that is the correct and only route to a near new finish. But the reason I am inquiring about the AIO and LSP service is for vehicles that are only slightly imperfect and just require a 1 step ROP applied product with a light cut pad. I inspected two vehicles that fit this profile, both BMWs that are well cared for.

I know well that the DG products work, but the finish, though slick and durable as heck, just does not seem to have that depth that carnauba tends to lend a dark car finish IMO. I have heard that the OPS and OCW possibly can deepen the look while requiring less effort and help lower the clients cost.

Mind you, these cars are DDs, so they will get beat up buy our PA winters. Come spring, if they need more paint correction, 2 steps with a high quality LSP is the correct solution to the winter ravages (if need be). I have yet to have a client's car need a full 3 step correction - maybe just a front or rear bumper. I guess I am lucky to have clients that have newer cars that they care about.

I mentioned in another thread that I have been detailing for several years: First, helping (for free) friends and friends of friends correct the paint on their vintage muscle cars and second, as a donation to some local charities I support. I offer a free complete detail for these charities annual fundraiseing silent auctions. My auction item, which I value at $150, often generates $300 for each charity. The people who buy my free detail often want me to do it again and I have told them to buy the auction detail the following year because I do not detail for money. This year they have talked me into actually getting started part-time for real $$$ and have referred me to others.

I am a pretty busy person with my job and family, but having such encouragement and a little extra $$$ seems like it will be worth the venture. I have already begun to upgrade my equipment and feel pretty confident that I now have most of the tools to provide high quality details. I do not yet have a carpet extractor. My good friend has a carpet cleaning business and I have borrowed one of his amazingly large MyTees each time I do my free detail, but now I will need my own. That will likely be my largest expense other than insurance.

So, the last piece of the puzzle is selecting the right products - that is why I asked about OPS and OCW. the products I have used in the past are good, but I was searching to see of there was a better or best. If I am going to be doing it for money, I want my clients to get the best I can offer them. I think you geekers understand the passion we put into our detailing.

My wife tells me often that I am anal and too much of a perfectionist with all things I do (especially when I would not let her drive her car until the WDGPS cured and it was coated with wax), but I believe detailing a vehicle requires that type of retentiveness.

Thank you again for the replies.

Sparty