Critique my first wash and detail

[04lss]

Hi all,
Picked up a 21 Jetta in the Habanero orange on tuesday. I am planning to do the first wash and detail it tomorrow. I am introducing a step or two i havent done before, so please critique away.

1. Spray the car down with a pressure washer including the wheels and tires.
2. apply wheel cleaner and agitate with my brush. Then rinse the wheels
3. Spray iron remover on the car.
4. Rinse again with the pressure washer
5. Apply Meguiars Shampoo with a foam cannon and let it dweel for a bit.
6. using the two bucket method wash each panel, by applying foam immediately before using the mit.
7. Dry using Griots PFM
8. Clay using Griots synthetic clay and Meguiars instant detailer.
9. Perform Paint correcting testing (start with Essence on a rupes yellow)
10. Do most of the car with the least aggressive method , and hit any stubborn spots with compound.
11. Use Gyeon Prep to clear the paint.
12. Apply Griots 3 in one spray ceramic wax
13. Apply second coat the next morning.



Here is where i am a bit uncertain:
1. Clean glass
2. Use Stoners Glass Stripper
3. clean glass again
4. apply RainX

The reason I am not sure, is because applying the wax typically gets overspray on the windshield. I am thinking i should do this very last, but it does require a water rinse. Should i do the scrub during the wash cycle, and just do a final clean and coating after everything is applied?

[opie]

Sorry for me being a bit confused....is this rainx a coating? Or is it just the normal stuff in a spray bottle?

And what requires a water rinse?

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[04lss]

Sorry for me being a bit confused....is this rainx a coating? Or is it just the normal stuff in a spray bottle?

And what requires a water rinse?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Sorry re-reading that it isnt clear.
I am talking about a glass coating like the rain-x name sake coating that makes the windshield hydrophobic.

The stoners glass Striper recommends a rinse. Its basically a glass polish. Ive been wanting to try it. I just want to make sure i get the windshield on this as close to perfect as i can so i can just maintain it.

[evo77]

My recommendations are:

1. Don't rinse the vehicle BEFORE applying iron remover. This dilutes the product. In order to maximize the effectiveness do it with a bone dry surface.

2. Skip the pre-foam. Its a waste of time and waste of soap. Since the Meguiar's shampoo is so gentle and ph neutral, its not strong enough to do any "cleaning" on its own. And any loose surface dirt that a foam could potentially pull from the surface will have already been blasted off the paint during the iron remover rinse stage.

3. You could substitute your current mechanical decon (clay bar) process with just using leftover soap and water from your wash bucket. After your done rinsing your car from the wash process, don't dry the car. Use your wash mitt and just wipe the panel with soap and clay bar it. Do the whole car and THEN rinse at the end.

[Bosko]

looks fine to me...feel free to come do my vehicles while I'm sleeping......

[04lss]

The D111? Should i switch to a different more effective soap for the foam cannon?

[opie]

Agree with evo77. Just remember to be careful with iron remover around dry unpainted plastics as in my experience it will stain.

Maybe dry the windshield after the wash and do your stoner glass stripper. Then rinse it and then dry entire vehicle?

Just dont over think it lol

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[evo77]

The D111? Should i switch to a different more effective soap for the foam cannon?

No.

The vehicle is new. There isn't caked on grime on the finish (at least I would not hope so). You don't need a strong chemical pre-wash foaming bath which is primarily for neglected vehicles to break down that grime before the hand wash stage.

Even after you have finished with your full detail and the paint is protected, foaming isn't necessary for maintenance washes. You certainly could do it to make yourself "feel" better but it isn't doing squat. Not with most shampoos anyways.

Carpro Lift, for example, is an effective pre-wash foaming chemical because of its high pH. It DOES break down grime and dirt BUT this is more geared towards coatings which are more resilient to highly concentrated cleaners. This will strip waxes and sealants.

The point I'm making is in order to make a pre-wash foam effective, it has to be a high pH cleaner which nearly most popular shampoos are not. And the higher the pH the stronger cleaning power and it can/will strip away your protection.

[04lss]

No.

The vehicle is new. There isn't caked on grime on the finish (at least I would not hope so). You don't need a strong chemical pre-wash foaming bath which is primarily for neglected vehicles to break down that grime before the hand wash stage.

Even after you have finished with your full detail and the paint is protected, foaming isn't necessary for maintenance washes. You certainly could do it to make yourself "feel" better but it isn't doing squat. Not with most shampoos anyways.

Carpro Lift, for example, is an effective pre-wash foaming chemical because of its high pH. It DOES break down grime and dirt BUT this is more geared towards coatings which are more resilient to highly concentrated cleaners. This will strip waxes and sealants.

The point I'm making is in order to make a pre-wash foam effective, it has to be a high pH cleaner which nearly most popular shampoos are not. And the higher the pH the stronger cleaning power and it can/will strip away your protection.

That makes sense! Thanks for the info!

[The Guz]

If you’re going to finish with Essence I wouldn’t bother doing a panel wipe unless using a true coating. Since your using a spray sealant I would just apply it and be done.