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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
Originally Posted by Bruno Soares
I don’t think it’s too risky at speed 2 like they recommend but I’ve never done it myself. I don’t prime foam pads anymore, I just put a little more product on the first go. I do prime microfiber pads though.
Basically what i do. The first application i will put more then usual on the pad and the few times i used microfiber i primed it - i 1 step mostly so i don't use microfiber very often. Just seems like the logical thing to do with microfiber. Hundreds of successful detailers i'd imagine that don't prime foam pads. While the gloss i got from rupes DA fine and yellow foam pad is very good it doesn't have a very long working time. Rupes seems to be creating a very rigid system. Not my thing personally. I like to use my own imagination and intuition more then that. Back to 3D One, again.
Speed 2 shouldn't be risky i don't think.
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Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
I figured since we had already kicked this topic around I would post here
I have a feeling I must not have been the only one to question his methods
Almost 20 minutes on priming vs not priming
DEBUNKING pad priming, with SCIENCE! - YouTube
His conclusion is MORE hazing/micro marring from priming...
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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
I saw that video. I will stick the manufacturers pad priming recommendations rather than this method. Those gloss meters are nice but it is still flawed as it is not always the same number even placed in the same area. It is not like the pad is being primed every pass so no excess product is wasted.
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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
Originally Posted by The Guz
I saw that video. I will stick the manufacturers pad priming recommendations rather than this method. Those gloss meters are nice but it is still flawed as it is not always the same number even placed in the same area. It is not like the pad is being primed every pass so no excess product is wasted.
And since you don't change pads after every panel, eventually your non primed pad will be primed.
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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
Personally I believe the manufactures of products know what they are talking about 99.999999999999999999999999% ( you get the idea here ) of the time. The reason is to generate a LITTLE heat to make the pad more flexible / workable. Wouldn't generate enough heat to do any damage.
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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
I’m struggling with how to say this
What you guys say is true
As we add section passes to a pad we add product and it get wetter and more full of product as well as residue
Even if we blow it or brush it out each pass we eventually reach the point of saturation in product AS WELL AS RESIDUE
If blowing and brushing was enough to get rid of it all we could do a car with 1 pad
I think we all know that the residue that builds up is responsible for a lot of the micro marring and haziness we can get
Pretty sure that’s a given
I just can’t for the life of me see how Todd can get hazing with a clean pad, all variables the same, just a difference in amount of product
The pad can’t pick up enough residue in 1 section pass to account for the haziness shown in that video
I know I’m beating a dead horse but I’m struggling to understand how he’s getting this result
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
Originally Posted by chilly
I’m struggling with how to say this
What you guys say is true
As we add section passes to a pad we add product and it get wetter and more full of product as well as residue
Even if we blow it or brush it out each pass we eventually reach the point of saturation in product AS WELL AS RESIDUE
If blowing and brushing was enough to get rid of it all we could do a car with 1 pad
I think we all know that the residue that builds up is responsible for a lot of the micro marring and haziness we can get
Pretty sure that’s a given
I just can’t for the life of me see how Todd can get hazing with a clean pad, all variables the same, just a difference in amount of product
The pad can’t pick up enough residue in 1 section pass to account for the haziness shown in that video
I know I’m beating a dead horse but I’m struggling to understand how he’s getting this result
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Could it be the compound that he's using and it's not breaking down causing some haze?
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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
Originally Posted by chilly
I’m struggling with how to say this
What you guys say is true
As we add section passes to a pad we add product and it get wetter and more full of product as well as residue
Even if we blow it or brush it out each pass we eventually reach the point of saturation in product AS WELL AS RESIDUE
If blowing and brushing was enough to get rid of it all we could do a car with 1 pad
I think we all know that the residue that builds up is responsible for a lot of the micro marring and haziness we can get
Pretty sure that’s a given
I just can’t for the life of me see how Todd can get hazing with a clean pad, all variables the same, just a difference in amount of product
The pad can’t pick up enough residue in 1 section pass to account for the haziness shown in that video
I know I’m beating a dead horse but I’m struggling to understand how he’s getting this result
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wouldn't waste time trying to understand nonsense. I have never experienced anything like this.
Any Yahoo can make a video and spin it any way they please........
It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.
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Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
I am very glad that I am not the only one who feels this way. I respect all these professionals and their contribution to the detailing industry.
I personally have experience with RUPES DA System and a lot more with Todd’s approach to paint correction…
Currently, I prefer using Jescar Correcting Compound / Meguiar’s Microfiber Cutting Disc and Sonax Perfect Finish / RUPES DA Fine Foam Pad as my main go to.
I am very proficient with both approach / systems but the one factor that I have been battling with for over a year has been the idea of priming vs. no priming.
I don’t care for the RUPES priming method as I too think that with an inexperienced person, it can be risky. Are we assuming that everyone has a paint depth gauge? Long throw machines has a lot of action happening. Let’s not forget that.
While I can’t speak for everyone, I think we all can agree that achieving a fine finish from the compounding step alone is the best case scenario. Yet at the same time, knocking out light hazing with the polishing step is not difficult to accomplish either.
Currently, I prime all my pads according to the conventional method we all know of. However, I do blow my pads out after with a tornador air gun. But instead of loading up with 3 drops of product, I load up with literally a pea size drop. That is all.
As a side note, I am a low, low speed type of guy who uses the washer mod in case anyone is wondering…
My procedure continues as usual, blow out the pad every few cycles and load up again with one drop of product.
At the end of the day—as long as I, the professional am satisfied with the results I see, then I have a lot of confidence that my clients will be happy.
KISS. Don’t over think it. The end goal it to get rid of defects.
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Re: Rupes Recommended Method for Pad Priming
Originally Posted by chilly
I figured since we had already kicked this topic around I would post here
I have a feeling I must not have been the only one to question his methods
Almost 20 minutes on priming vs not priming
DEBUNKING pad priming, with SCIENCE! - YouTube
His conclusion is MORE hazing/micro marring from priming...
I watched the video and wrote a thorough, 5 or 6 paragraph response earlier today. When I tried to post it I got logged out and lost it.
I'm not going to try to rewrite it but the main points were as follows:
- The design of any test can have a major influence on the results
- The test depicted doesn't replicate real world conditions very accurately
- No one uses a new pad for every section
- The amount of product used for the two test sections varied widely
In the end, as far as detailing is concerned, the bottom line is results. How you get there is irrelevant as long as your process delivers the results you want and expect.
It's not rocket science.
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