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  1. #11
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    I wouldn't use number 7 under Klasse. Klasse would probably work better on bare paint.

  2. #12
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by 2black1s View Post
    I'm not familiar with the products you used... Maybe they were simply not aggressive enough to achieve the correction level you desire, or you just need to get more aggressive with your process, i.e., more passes, more pressure, etc.

    Typically if the product/pad combination you are using isn't aggressive enough, you can compensate (to some extent) by doing additional passes. It will take longer, but you can usually reach the desired result (within reason).

    In any case, looking at the picture you attached, you need to get more aggressive... Either with pad and product, or with your process, and possibly all.

    Your situation is also a great testimonial for doing a test spot to dial-in your process before proceeding with the entire car. If you would have done that first, then the seven hours you just spent could have been used more efficiently.
    Yeah I felt pretty defeated when the car looked amazing in the garage (i.e. no swirls anymore) and in the sun I can still see them in certain spots.

  3. #13
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by glen e View Post
    Look into your procedure also. I have a few friends that after I saw how they used a polisher, I corrected them and had them move the polisher much slower, they were using it like they use a paintbrush back-and-forth fairly quickly and that doesn’t give the products or the pad time to work. So count to four seconds when you’re moving across in a 2 x 2 section give everything time to work.
    I probably move too fast with the buffer. I always get worried that if I move too slowly that I will burn/damage the paint.

  4. #14
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by oneheadlite View Post
    One other thing to check on your approach - are you only using one of each color pad to do the whole car for each step?
    Yes

  5. #15
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by fly07sti View Post
    Lots of helpful info here. I will say that what you used basically just removed the road film. If you want to get rid of the swirls and marring I’d recommend the Meg’s MF cutting discs with D300 for your Porter Cable to remove the defects. Then get Meg’s M210 or Meg’s Ultimate Polish to use with your yellow polishing pads to clear the have left from the compounding.
    I'll look into the cutting discs and polishes for next time.

  6. #16
    Super Member 98CayenneTA's Avatar
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    The products you used are not going to touch that damage you are trying to correct and the parts that do look good are probably just filled and will reappear once the protection is gone.

    Use the same pads you're using but use one of these.....
    Menzerna 400
    Sonax Cutmax
    Carpro Ultracut (my vote)

    That clear is definitely on the hard side and those compounds will get rid of that damage but also finish down very nice on that hard clear
    Ripping through your mind like a hurricane full of novocaine

  7. #17
    Super Member oneheadlite's Avatar
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    Whatever pads you get, I would definitely up the quantity of how many you're using. Standard practice is usually 1 pad per panel (hood would count as 2).

    By continuing to use a pad for panel after panel, it's loading up with product and spent clear coat as well as any other debris you may have picked up. A super loaded pad won't work as efficiently as a clean fresh pad, and it's also really hard on the pad. When I started off, I didn't realize the importance of multiple pads either.

    Glen E had a great comment on slowing down your movement. You don't need to worry about burning your paint with a PC style machine unless you go really crazy (even then, I'm not sure how crazy that would have to be). Make sure your pad or backing plate is marked so you can make sure it's continuing to rotate - if the backing plate's not spinning, you're not correcting. Like Paul mentioned, on a PC it's not unheard of to need to run them at speed 6 to maintain rotation. Just check in on your pad and the paint from time to time and make sure they're not getting hot (Overworked pads get hot in the center and can dimple in extreme cases).

    I'm also with Paul for the Griot's Fast Correcting Cream recommendation. Really user friendly, and on hard paint I wouldn't be surprised if it finished down well enough you wouldn't need to chase it with a polish before applying your LSP (though no one here would begrudge you if you did. ).

    2black1s also called it on the importance of a test spot - work out your process on a small area so you can work smarter across the whole car, not harder.

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  9. #18
    Super Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Fully Detailed Vehicle But Defects Remain...Need Advice

    Some great advice so far.

    Another important element of correction is inspect that section just worked under discerning light. I don't move on til that section is fully corrected.

    And when i encounter a section that doesn't respond like my test spot i have to adjust. I then go back to what my test spot yielded for all remaining sections where it works.

  10. Likes oneheadlite, PaulMys liked this post
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