Paint defect advice......

[Pgalla2001]

Paint defect advice......


I’m a newbie in terms of paint correction and most of the things that go with it. I’ve been looking at various YouTube channels for info on techniques, products etc. I’ve just discovered this forum and wish I had done so ages ago!

Anyway, I’m looking for some specific advice- I have a Jaguar XJ that had not really been that well looked after (cosmetically) by the previous owner. I have spent hours and hours in the past couple of weeks correcting the paintwork which needed a lot of scratch removal, it’s now done and I thought it looked great but in the sun it’s a different story.

I thought it would just need a finishing polish and all would be right with the world! There’s marring/micro marring all over the place (I’ll try and add some photos below).

The question I have is- does this need an intermediate polish stage before trying to finish? The compound stage was carried out using a DA polisher with meguiars MF cutting pads and DA MF compound.

I was trying to finish with Rupes yellow polishing pads and Sonax perfect finish. But no matter how many passes there’s hardly any improvement at all.

Should I try a heavier cutting polish with the same pads?

What I have in my stock is-

• Meguiars MF finishing pads,
• chemical guys hex logic orange (med-heavy) cutting pads,
• rupes yellow polishing pads, rupes white fine polish pads,
• meguiars M105,
• Meguiars Ultimate Compound
• and Sonax perfect finish.

If I can use thes products to get the desired finish from the next stage then great but if anyone recommends any other products I would happily buy something else.

Thanks in advance,






Paul.


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[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

After reading through your post and pictures it looks like the marring is coming from your microfiber towels as you are wiping the compound away.

I would get some high quality towels first before getting new pads/polishes.

[opie]

Could it also be da haze? I use the same system...(mt300 with d300, rarely used 301 to finish. They do make d302(polish) specifically to clean up the haze sometimes left behind from d300. I could be wrong and Mike@DedicatedPerfection could be your answer, just thought id off my 2 cents as i use that system.

[Mike Phillips]

Just to chime in,


First - hope you don't mind but I edited your post to break-up the huge single chunk of text just to make it easier for me to read.

See my article here,

How to type in a way that other people will read what you write


No worries - I would say most people that type on any social media site type in single chunks of text. I just find it difficult to read and I know because others find it difficult to read what happens is people won't and don't read it.

I was trying to finish with Rupes yellow polishing pads and Sonax perfect finish.

But no matter how many passes there’s hardly any improvement at all.

The RUPES yellow pads are a tick on the aggressive side in the context of most foam "polishing" pads on the market. Even their white finishing pads are a tick on the aggressive side for "finishing" pads. I really like the old and the new RUPES pads but I'm also very familiar with them and know when I'm working on soft paints these may not work.

The SONAX Perfect Finish is formulated specifically for rotary polishers. Myself and scads of other human beings have used this product with great success when using orbital polishers.


My guess is - you're working of soft paint, just a guess. I haven't worked on any Jaguar's for a few years.


Two questions,

1: What type of orbital polisher do you have and what size backing plate?

2: What or how do you want to SEAL the paint? Wax, synthetic sealant or ceramic coating?

[Pgalla2001]

Just to chime in,


First - hope you don't mind but I edited your post to break-up the huge single chunk of text just to make it easier for me to read.

See my article here,

How to type in a way that other people will read what you write


No worries - I would say most people that type on any social media site type in single chunks of text. I just find it difficult to read and I know because others find it difficult to read what happens is people won't and don't read it.







The RUPES yellow pads are a tick on the aggressive side in the context of most foam "polishing" pads on the market. Even their white finishing pads are a tick on the aggressive side for "finishing" pads. I really like the old and the new RUPES pads but I'm also very familiar with them and know when I'm working on soft paints these may not work.

The SONAX Perfect Finish is formulated specifically for rotary polishers. Myself and scads of other human beings have used this product with great success when using orbital polishers.


My guess is - you're working of soft paint, just a guess. I haven't worked on any Jaguar's for a few years.


Two questions,

1: What type of orbital polisher do you have and what size backing plate?

2: What or how do you want to SEAL the paint? Wax, synthetic sealant or ceramic coating?

Thanks Mike, completely fine with you editing the post , was typing in a bit of a hurry and it does read a lot better now!

1- I didn’t really spend a lot of money on the polishers that I have and I’m sure they’re pretty
Much on the bargain basement side. I wasn’t sure whether to spend big as I’m definitely no professional! I have a 3 inch backing plate on a SPTA 780S3 dual action polisher and a 6 inch backing plate on a Katsu S1P-DW01-180. Both cost me less than £90 each, bought off Amazon.

2- My intention is to seal it first with Jescar Power lock plus and then top off with a couple of coats of Collinite 845.


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[Pgalla2001]

After reading through your post and pictures it looks like the marring is coming from your microfiber towels as you are wiping the compound away.

I would get some high quality towels first before getting new pads/polishes.

Hi Mike, yeah sounds plausible. The ones I got felt pretty plush to me but my experience is pretty limited. I can’t remember how much I paid for them but they weren’t that expensive


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