Coating levelling - possible to remove too much?

[ejaf]

Thanks Eric. The Cquartz Lite bottle looks similar to that - it's very dark (but not completely opaque), and the cap looks similar. (not sure what "polycone" means, but it has an inner cap, that once tight, allows the outer cap to continue to be twisted freely, and it also has a bit of vertical play)

Sounds the same as the DLux I have from Carpro. The polycone cap seals better, IMO:


E

[Skip]

The coating is flying - it was applied on Nov 12, to the passenger's side of the hood only. Driver's side only got Reload, and the coated side also got Reload, 1 hour after coating. In this photo, it is obvious that the coated side has far less water on it, after having just been in the rain.

[TTQ B4U]

Did you use CarPro Essence as the base layer?

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[Skip]

No. I cleaned the paint and did a light correction only, using Optimum Hyper Polish and a finishing pad, then removed residue with IPA followed by Eraser. Have done approximately 8 gentle waterless washes, using ONR @ 1:256. (rinseless dilution)
Photo lost some clarity during upload.

[Desertnate]

No. I cleaned the paint and did a light correction only, using Optimum Hyper Polish and a finishing pad, then removed residue with IPA followed by Eraser. Have done approximately 8 gentle waterless washes, using ONR @ 1:256. (rinseless dilution)
Photo lost some clarity during upload.

For future reference, if you use Eraser, there is no reason for the IPA. Eraser will easily remove all of the polishing oils and also has a little lubrication in it to prevent marring while you prepping the surface. Something the IPA can't do for you.

[Skip]

Thanks. The only reason I use IPA is to save a bit of money - I use the IPA to remove the bulk of the residue, and finish up with Eraser, because I feel that Eraser is actually more effective. I don't think the IPA is causing much marring (partially due to the lubrication of the residue), and in any case my subsequent waterless washing is going to cause marring anyway. One reason I'm trying coatings is to see whether they will reduce marring from waterless washing.
Btw - I'm using Cquartz Lite simply to practice with - I have CSL ready to go when I get serious.
Would Gyeon Mohs produce a harder surface than CSL?

[TTQ B4U]

No. I cleaned the paint and did a light correction only, using Optimum Hyper Polish and a finishing pad, then removed residue with IPA followed by Eraser. Have done approximately 8 gentle waterless washes, using ONR @ 1:256. (rinseless dilution)
Photo lost some clarity during upload.

No problem. Essence makes working with CarPro coatings easier and also offers a base-layer of protection. Personally I don't use the CarPro Light coatings but I would bet you'd find the better results with Essence first. Once done polishing, I use Optimum Paint Prep purchased in gals. Inexpensive, very effective, etc. Good luck.

[The Guz]

Thanks. The only reason I use IPA is to save a bit of money - I use the IPA to remove the bulk of the residue, and finish up with Eraser, because I feel that Eraser is actually more effective. I don't think the IPA is causing much marring (partially due to the lubrication of the residue), and in any case my subsequent waterless washing is going to cause marring anyway. One reason I'm trying coatings is to see whether they will reduce marring from waterless washing.
Btw - I'm using Cquartz Lite simply to practice with - I have CSL ready to go when I get serious.
Would Gyeon Mohs produce a harder surface than CSL?

They are about the same. Don't focus too much on the hardness claims when it comes to a coating. Coatings sort of take on the attributes of the paint itself. It will help with marring but you will eventually see it again. Enjoy cquartz lite as it is a strong performer.

[Skip]

Thanks. I realise that the simple fact that the coating makes cleaning easier may reduce marring too.

FWIW, I took my car to a touchless wash, for kicks.
It actually worked surprisingly well, even on non coated panels.
However, as you'll see, the door which has been coated is beading, whereas the other panels are very flat.

Before the touchless wash:
Before wash


A few minutes after the wash. Rear door coated, front door had Reload, other panels bare. All panels recently cleaned with Optimum Power Clean @33% dilution.
After wash


No substantial difference on the hood this time - slightly less water on the coated side, and both sides beading:
Hood

Interestingly, once dry, the coated door panel was actually dirtier, due to the beading. (which leads me to believe the so-called "spotless rinse" isn't actually "spotless").
The spots were easily dabbed away with a moist cloth though.

The car was very dirty - I'm very happy with the results of the touchless wash! (notwithstanding the fact it didn't do much on those lower skirts)

[Skip]

After sitting in light rain. (*giggle*)
light rain