Swirl marks on 1992 mazda single stage black paint

**mensoc** · 08-25-2020, 01:55 PM

Well, the title says it all.
One door is painted a few years back with a dual paint with multiple layers of clear coat.
This company generally works on expensive cars, but did this as well.
The color match is flawless and the paint finish was too.
Now after years of use and parking in garages of appartment buildings, there are swirls marks as to be expected.
During some minor work on the car, the mechanic used a brick wall as a door stop, and that didnt help much either.
It resulted in scuffs and some scratches, but all in the clear coat.
So i got white microfiber pads, and ultimate polish and ultimate compound and some microfiber towels from meguiars.
And after some testing first and "some" free exercise, the scratches and scuffs are completely gone, and no more swirl marks, a true mirror finish.
I use a bright led light to check for any left scratches, swirls or marks, but it's all gone.
The compound left a light haze (but to get rid of the scratches some paint had to come off), but the polish got the shine back.
But then i looked at the rest of the car.
Yikes.
Scratches and swirl marks galore.
So i began testing on the other door which has a single stage paint, just as the rest of the car.
First a non abrasive polish, nothing.
Then the ultimate polish, not much either.
The compound leaves a haze, but a haze with some light scratches in it. I only use the compound at points where a isolated scratch sits, so not the whole panel ofcourse.
Not good. You would expect this haze to break the existing swirls at least, but no.
The polish gets the haze out again but the swirls remain.
So i tested further ( the underside of the door, the least visible part) with some more pressure, some less pressure, yellow foam pads, making the pads lightly moist to make it go smoother, you name it.
I looked at dozens of videos, read dozens of articles, but the swirl marks remain.
I make sure the product doesn't get to dry, and wipe it of with every pattern i can think of, so to make sure i'm not causing new ones, all in a garage not outside, and all with clean suplies.
I also don't want to polish too much or too long, because i have no idea how much paint is on the car. (it's a mazda, so probably the least they can get away with).
The paint is very soft, it scratches when you look at it.
What ever i do, the swirls remain.
Is it better than before?
Yes.
Is it a mirror?
No.
If i shine a light direct on it, the swirls are much less visible, while on the untreated panels they are clearly visisble.
So its better but far from perfect.
But when i take the light further away and in an angle, there come the swirls.
These are very light, because when i put some wax on the panel, the swirls are gone, in every light setting.
But i want them gone.

Any advise?

**98CayenneTA** · 08-25-2020, 02:12 PM

What compound and polish are you using exactly?
What year, make and model of vehicle?
What tool are you using?
What yellow foam pad?

Edit: just saw '92 black mazda

**98CayenneTA** · 08-25-2020, 02:30 PM

Without seeing the paint condition and soft single stage I would try something like Menzerna 400 with a soft foam polishing pad. Something like the white buff & shine polishing pad. The carpro orange polishing pad is also very nice to go aggressive on compound but finish out pretty nice with little to none micro maring. Sonax Cutmax would be another good one to try with a light polishing pad on soft paint.

**mensoc** · 08-25-2020, 02:47 PM

meguiars ultimate compound, meguiars ultimate polish, meguiars crystal polish.
mazda 323 1992
all by hand
meguiars yellow foam pad, and meguiars white microfiber pad.

**WillSports3** · 08-25-2020, 07:39 PM

I would get a machine to get the maximum effect to be honest. For single stage paint after they've been old and neglected after a while, there's a lot of old dead paint on there that needs to be cut away hard, so a microfiber pad with a D/A to cut/compound is the best choice. Then a polishing pad with ultimate polish would do a great job after.

**mensoc** · 08-26-2020, 04:34 AM

Is there not the risc of cutting away too much paint doing this with a machine?
The pads already turn light grey when i do it by hand with not much pressure, so some paint is coming off.
I have zero experience in this but willing to learn.
Thanks.

Mike Phillips · 08-26-2020, 06:35 AM

One thing I've been posting for years and that is - "we" really cannot polish paint by hand.

It's too difficult. You have to have EXPERT technique in order to do it AND get great results.

Get any free spinning random orbital polisher and after buffing out the hood you'll wonder why you didn't make the switch sooner.

**mensoc** · 08-26-2020, 10:31 AM

Thanks for your answer.
Reading this forum i know you are very experienced and it would not be smart not to listen after asking advice,

After getting the dual paint door restored by hand, i thought de rest of the car would be possible by hand as well even though the rest is single stage.
But since i've tried every hand technique, an DA looks like the only option left.
I must admit that i'm a little scared to use a machine.
I'm always afraid i can do too much damage too easy that way.
But working by hand on the single stage just isnt working.
Is it wise to use an DA on an older car without first measuring how much paint is left?

**WillSports3** · 08-26-2020, 10:56 AM

The amount you would actually cut is miniscule to be honest. As long as you don't start trying to wetsand it, you'll be alright. Or for peace of mind you can pick up a paint gauge as well.

**98CayenneTA** · 08-26-2020, 05:42 PM

Short answer you should measure your paint but many don't. If it's factory paint, 99.9% chance you will be just fine using a da.
I will give you a example.

Below are pictures of a Buick Grand National hood. Pretty damaged single stage paint that measured around 95-105 microns for the paint system meaning the base coat is about 60- 70 microns thick.
25 microns = .001"
So approximately .0025" of base.

The damaged removed in the pictures below, if I recall right, was right around 5-7 microns of paint removed and I went at it pretty good.
21mm da with compound & microfiber pad
Rotary and microfiber pad in some spots.
It would look something like this....
Start point.....65 microns
Damage removal..... 5 microns
So approximately 60 microns of paint left and definitely still in the healthy zone as far as paint thickness