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  1. #11
    Super Member Klasse Act's Avatar
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    Re: Paint cleaner before Klasse AIO

    I've always heard the drive thru washes use heavy detergents, so I'd think there shouldn't be a great amount of traffic film...but it would depend on how often it was washed as well as the environment as wellPaint cleaner before Klasse AIO

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  2. #12
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    Re: Paint cleaner before Klasse AIO

    These days, most municipalities mandate a catchment system to reclaim the non-potable, used water. While presumably filtered, some systems are maintained or just work better than others. Something is better than nothing, but a periodic, long session of decontamination and cleaning is warranted. As for Kassel, I’ve used the twins for about 29 years, though the HGSG hasn’t been my preferred topper in many years. As stated above, the AIO is a fine chemical cleaner, but you needn’t stay married to its complement. I suggest experimenting with other sealants assuming a preceding, thorough cleaning and decontamination. Good luck.

  3. #13
    Super Member TroyScherer's Avatar
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    Re: Paint cleaner before Klasse AIO


    Noting that you again tried a Nano sponge to clay and it didn’t seem to make much of a difference. It might be crazy but you might want to pick up a Mother’s clay kit at the local auto parts store. While the clay blocks seems to work for quick use and production details I find the true clay bars work better at removing contamination.

    After that I would proceed with your plan. That first application will then most likely turn your applicators dark as it cleans the paint. You will really start toe see that color and shine return. Hopefully the 2nd application will be “cleaner” and not pull much in the way of contamination. If it does that 3rd application will help clean it all up.

    I would suggest either using the Klass sealant glaze or another sealant on top of the KAIO after you are done with the cleaning/prep steps. That will add the protection you are looking for. KAIO doesn’t last Morse that 2-3 months if that from my use. Buts it’s a great base layer prep step.

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  5. #14
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    Re: Paint cleaner before Klasse AIO

    Thank you, folks. Appreciate all comments.

    Quote Originally Posted by vobro View Post
    My guess after years of swirl o matics which doesn’t really clean the paint effectively you just have a big buildup of traffic film and fallout. My mom parks outside under trees, every few months I give it a thorough cleaning. Most times several rounds of chemical decon is needed which includes wipe downs with a degreaser,Iron X and spot treatments of TarX followed by at least a medium grade clay( for this purpose I choose a clay bar instead of mitts which don’t do as good of a job).
    The car hasn't been through Swirl-O-Matic in a couple of years now, since I learned how it scratches the paint and started reading AutoGeek.

    Our situation is pretty much like your mom, we park under the sky 24/7 and live near a busy street so even if the car is sitting parked, it continues to build up the traffic film.

    May I ask which degreaser do you use? I can not thoroughly detail the car more than twice a year due to the limitations I have but once I understand the process and the materials, I can find a way to get the job done.

    Quote Originally Posted by Torsion Tool View Post
    As for Kassel, I’ve used the twins for about 29 years, though the HGSG hasn’t been my preferred topper in many years. As stated above, the AIO is a fine chemical cleaner, but you needn’t stay married to its complement. I suggest experimenting with other sealants assuming a preceding, thorough cleaning and decontamination. Good luck.
    Which one would you suggest to use? There are so many, and I am trying to learn as much as I can but TBH, I find it very confusing. Hence, I hesitate to mix things up. I chose Klasse products only because I found thorough information on them and their application process (since I do it by hand, no DA polisher).

    Quote Originally Posted by TroyScherer View Post

    Noting that you again tried a Nano sponge to clay and it didn’t seem to make much of a difference. It might be crazy but you might want to pick up a Mother’s clay kit at the local auto parts store. While the clay blocks seems to work for quick use and production details I find the true clay bars work better at removing contamination.
    I actually have Mother's clay kit and I tried using it last year but I found Nanoskin sponge to be very easy to use (and don't have to throw away if I drop it) so I stuck with the Nanoskin sponge, but maybe I should give another shot at it.

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