New to correction, scratch removal

[jakesxt]

Looking for advice here. Just got a long scratch on the side of my challenger. Running my fingernail over it, it does not seem the catch (slight noise?).

What I have:

Gg 6" radom orbital
5 LC backing plate
5 inch lake county blue pads

I think it should buff out but I have never really used the da for anything much more that applying wax.

Can someone recommend some good options for someone new to correction. Wife thinks I should just take it to a body shop, but I really think (maybe hope) it is just in the clear coat.

[WillSports3]

At best, you'll be able to minimize it. Don't go nuts with cutting the clearcoat, it's not great. You need 2 mil for actual protection, most factories ship them out at barely 3 mils. You prolly need some orange pads. I always go to Sonax for anything I need, just seems to work best and I don't really change around too often.

[PaulMys]

If it doesn't catch your nail, you can correct that.

Like Will said, you'll need a more aggressive pad like an LC orange.

As for product, Griot's Correcting Cream has never let me down.

[WillSports3]

You're gonna have 50 people with 50 different product lines they like. Basically, more aggressive pad, and you'll most likely need a fast cutting liquid and then a finishing liquid.

[PaulMys]

You're gonna have 50 people with 50 different product lines they like.

Maybe 60. Lol

[WillSports3]

Not gonna lie.. I say I always use Sonax but I've got 3D and Scholl Concept stuff just for fun.

[jakesxt]

Ok, so I will grab some orange lc 5.5 pads. How many do you typically need to do a car?

Then griots correcting cream. Or should I use the fast correcting? Difference?

Then can I just use a typical wax after? 845 maybe.

[WillSports3]

I've never used griots stuff so I can't say. Generally, I would get about 5 orange pads and 4 polishing pads. I also have about 4 microfiber cutting pads as well but that depends on how much you're going to get into polishing and using the polisher.

[PaulMys]

Ok, so I will grab some orange lc 5.5 pads. How many do you typically need to do a car?

Then griots correcting cream. Or should I use the fast correcting? Difference?

Then can I just use a typical wax after? 845 maybe.

Just like Will said for the pads.

As for the Griot's Creams, FCC is a compound, but finishes down pretty much like a polish. However, you won't know that for sure (especially with black paint) until you do a test spot.

The CC is a great all-around polish, and may be all you need.

After you find what works, you can absolutely go straight to 845.

[TTQ B4U]

Looking for advice here. Just got a long scratch on the side of my challenger. Running my fingernail over it, it does not seem the catch (slight noise?).

What I have:

Gg 6" radom orbital
5 LC backing plate
5 inch lake county blue pads

I think it should buff out but I have never really used the da for anything much more that applying wax.

Can someone recommend some good options for someone new to correction. Wife thinks I should just take it to a body shop, but I really think (maybe hope) it is just in the clear coat.

If you're not experienced with a polisher and deeper scratch removal, ask a local detailer to look it over. Not sure where you're located but many here are able to help.

Parts of it to the left appear in the image to be pretty deep. A fairly effective trick to see is to spray it with some mild soap and water and see what fades or blends away. The parts that do will likely polish out. Keep in mind perfection isn't always worth chasing.

I wouldn't wet-sand or lean in too hard with a compound unless you have a Paint Thickness Gauge. Key is to balance out the results that make you happy while still maintaining a fair amount of clear coat to protect or handle UV exposure from the sun. Remember, there's no such thing as removing scratches, you're actually leveling the surround clear coat to reduce or eliminate their appearance.

What I would do is polish it lightly to see how far I can get. Before doing more, I'd buy Dr. Color Chip Paint and lay down a very thin line over top of it. Feather the paint with their included solvent using a paper towel so that what overlaps on the good paint/factory finish will essentially polish or sand away. I then would very lightly blend it with polish / wet sand and polish. It will remove 90-95% of the appearance of it while preserving the clear coat. I offer this service as part of my detailing and while not the best at it, do a pretty darn good job. Never had any complaints with the results.