Front bumper rash repair before clear bra?

[Sorang06]

Hello all,

Hopefully this is the correct area to ask this. I have a 2018 Camaro ZL1 1LE with 7,000 miles on it. The car is flawless with the exception of the front bumper. the previous owner tracked it quite a bit (im guessing roughly 50% of the 4,900 miles I bought it with were track miles) and it has some chips and rash down low on the front bumper. I want to have it clear bra protected but don't want to have it painted. I'm worried about the color match! I would rather "freeze" the paint condition in its current condition. Is there a way to maybe improve its look before applying clear bra? maybe a wet sand to smooth the plastic followed by Dr Colorchip? any others have experience doing something like this? Let me know your thoughts and any suggestions! I'll attach a close up pic of what i'm dealing with.

TIA!

[FUNX650]

From here the rash doesn’t look too horrid.

Yet, before attempting any DIY paint repairs:
1.) Try polishing...judiciously...with an AIO.
2.) If you’re subbing the installation work out
to a clear bra (PPF) installer: let them take a
look and see what they think about installing
PPF over the existing paint defects (freeze ‘em);
and/or, over a Dr. ColorChip paint repair—which
needs to fully cure before the PPF goes on.

[Which in turn also means a no driving scenario
until that curing is done. ]


Bob

[Sorang06]

From here the rash doesn’t look too horrid.

Yet, before attempting any DIY paint repairs:
1.) Try polishing...judiciously...with an AIO.
2.) If you’re subbing the installation work out
to a clear bra (PPF) installer: let them take a
look and see what they think about installing
PPF over the existing paint defects (freeze ‘em);
and/or, over a Dr. ColorChip paint repair—which
needs to fully cure before the PPF goes on.

[Which in turn also means a no driving scenario
until that curing is done. ]


Bob

I stopped by a couple different shops today to get quotes. both shops have years of experience. One shop uses SunTek, The other uses Xpel. One shop said it needs to be resprayed because the surface is too rough, The other said it will be fine. Of course I get 2 different stories! I will have to ask about their opinion of putting it over Dr Colorchip. and sorry, What is an AIO? haha!

[Mike Phillips]

Here's the picture,



Here's my thoughts....

First go with the guy that says it won't be a problem. All you need for the PPF is a clean, flat surface. Because this area is LOW on the car, it's not like it's going to be super noticeable like for example, a huge defect in the middle of the hood.

I like the idea of doing some light hand or machine sanding just to flatten over the paint and then polish with a compound to remove the sanding marks. Leave it alone after that, the PPF installer will have their own protocols for prepping the paint of installation of the PPF.


FWIW

[Thomkirby]

PPF is the only option for protection and I run it on both my vehicles. Being that is on the lower sections which already have the chips I would try Mike's path and go the easiest route.

Now for my experiences with PPF
I had my Suntek replaced under warranty due to yellowing of the older version. Good support from them.
My installer was not original installer but did it anyway as that business closed it's door with now follow up notice.
Now I added a full hood protection in addition at $650 my cost with Expel.
45-days later driving down the highway, a blown tire gets thrown up and strikes the hood. Took a small but unrepairable section of PPF out leaving a small divot. I have to live with it as not going to spend another $650 to replace the entire hood PPF.
If you plan on driving it and do not want to repaint, then just learn these things will happen.

Looks to be a really fun car.

[Sorang06]

Here's the picture,



Here's my thoughts....

First go with the guy that says it won't be a problem. All you need for the PPF is a clean, flat surface. Because this area is LOW on the car, it's not like it's going to be super noticeable like for example, a huge defect in the middle of the hood.

I like the idea of doing some light hand or machine sanding just to flatten over the paint and then polish with a compound to remove the sanding marks. Leave it alone after that, the PPF installer will have their own protocols for prepping the paint of installation of the PPF.


FWIW

PPF is the only option for protection and I run it on both my vehicles. Being that is on the lower sections which already have the chips I would try Mike's path and go the easiest route.

Now for my experiences with PPF
I had my Suntek replaced under warranty due to yellowing of the older version. Good support from them.
My installer was not original installer but did it anyway as that business closed it's door with now follow up notice.
Now I added a full hood protection in addition at $650 my cost with Expel.
45-days later driving down the highway, a blown tire gets thrown up and strikes the hood. Took a small but unrepairable section of PPF out leaving a small divot. I have to live with it as not going to spend another $650 to replace the entire hood PPF.
If you plan on driving it and do not want to repaint, then just learn these things will happen.

Looks to be a really fun car.

Thank you both for the replies. I'll do some sort of wetsand and buff and try to find something small enough to get down in that little area to polish it back out the best I can. I understand clear bra will get tattered up with time just like the paint. but at least it's only plastic degrading and not the color below it! I just had it at the track last weekend and will be doing many more HPDE's with it in the future so at least stopping the sandblasting directly to the paint is my main goal!