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  1. #21
    Senior Member Eldorado2k's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkD51 View Post
    Using water period on these vintage classics is a mortal sin!

    Two Bucket washes, grit guards, foam guns and all that other whacky BS is fine for a newer Korean Hyundai S&ht Box. You do NOT want water going down inside door panels, or anywhere else where it will sit for eons and cause rusting.
    Question: Do you own a high powered blower such as a Metro Sidekick or Master Blaster? I’m curious if you do and still feel the same way about washing a classic car.

  2. #22
    Senior Member MarkD51's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Quote Originally Posted by Eldorado2k View Post
    Question: Do you own a high powered blower such as a Metro Sidekick or Master Blaster? I’m curious if you do and still feel the same way about washing a classic car.
    IMO, it really doesn't matter much after the fact, of dousing an antique in a manner I cautioned against. Too late.

    In certain climes, vehicles rust to the bone that have never even been washed.

    Take my Tahoe there in my avatar. There it sat in the desert under a carport in (Alamogordo) NM for 14 years. Nary seen rust accumulate until I came back to the Midwest. I seen more rust accumulate on the chassis underside in 6 months in Wisconsin, than I did in 14 years in NM.

    Of course road salts played a part too, dumping that all over on every street and road.

    Most smart people with vintage, collectables, and antiques do not hose their vehicles down with water. There's no such things as perfect sealing window gaskets, hood and trunk seals, windshield-back window trim, doors that drain every last drop of water after a wash job. That water sits, and can for a very long time

    Once I had a bought brand new 1980 Jeep Cherokee Golden Eagle (Lemon POS)

    I'm driving it one winter day, and every time I stopped or took off, I'm hearing what sounded like water sloshing when I came to a stop, or accelerated from a stop light? I'm like WTH?

    Popped both rear interior panels behind the rear wheels to find at least a gallon of water on each side! Freaking Fish Tanks I had back there! And I was sick to see the rust that had already formed. Worst piece of $12,000 junk I ever bought in my life!

  3. #23
    Senior Member Eldorado2k's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Do you own a high powered air blower?

  4. #24
    Member HAMBO's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Quote Originally Posted by WillSports3 View Post
    This seems to be just left over liquid. Try using distilled water and double check the dilution ratios. I'd also suggest doing a final wipe after you WW/RW your car. The streaks of left over lubrication should be just fine if you spritz the towel with a little bit of distilled water.
    Thanks. Yep, I have been using distilled water for dilution. A wipe down with a spritz of distilled water is a good suggestion, thanks! Though I am indeed beginning to suspect the heat of the panels has been a big part of the problem. Need to let everything cool down I suspect.

  5. #25
    Senior Member WillSports3's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Ya, a lot of the WW/RW can be a pain to remove once it dries.
    2016 Mazda 3 Sports GT
    2015 Lexus IS250 F Sport

  6. #26
    Member HAMBO's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Quote Originally Posted by TNMIKE46 View Post
    So HAMBO, is it a true SS396?? Just curious due to the somewhat rarity of one. Sorry if I'm "beating a dead horse" here LOL.
    LOL no problem! The RPO code on the trim tag in the engine bay says the car was originally built with a 396 (also with correct option codes for what I otherwise see as options on the car), but the original motor is long gone, so I don't know if I'll ever be able to prove with certainty what it was built with. My inclination, and I had a Camaro restoration expert and an NCRS judge take a look and come to this point of view, is that it was born a 396. But without the original motor to confirm it may always be an "I believe so" and not an "I know so". Good enough for me : )

  7. #27
    Senior Member MarkD51's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Quote Originally Posted by HAMBO View Post
    LOL no problem! The RPO code on the trim tag in the engine bay says the car was originally built with a 396 (also with correct option codes for what I otherwise see as options on the car), but the original motor is long gone, so I don't know if I'll ever be able to prove with certainty what it was built with. My inclination, and I had a Camaro restoration expert and an NCRS judge take a look and come to this point of view, is that it was born a 396. But without the original motor to confirm it may always be an "I believe so" and not an "I know so". Good enough for me : )
    Happens with a lot of old Chevy Classics, the original motor is long gone. That was the case with my '67 Stingray (327) and my '68 Camaro (396) as well. The Stingray's original motor crapped out at 6 month's time, original owner found he was going through a qt of oil every 400 miles, entire short block was replaced due to a supposed bad cylinder that could not be cleaned up.

    My Camaro, actually had a 427 under the hood. Looked basically the same, just a slightly different Harmonic Balancer was one visual give-away.

    Same with a friend's show winning '68 SS396 Chevelle. When he bought the car, it had a 283 under the hood.
    After finding a period correct Block (serial numbers) the car is now a full rotisserie resto best of show winner, and has been appraised at about $120K.

  8. #28
    Member TNMIKE46's Avatar
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    Re: Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

    Well, original engine or not, grrrrreat looking Camaro!! Enjoy.

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