Most swirl resistant ceramic

[Mike Phillips]

I have a '02 Trans Am WS6 with only 22K miles that I am in the process of doing a full paint correction on.

This car is 100% garage kept and will never see rain/weather.

Nice. You've got your hands on a true modern muscle car in mint condition. Congratulations!

We detailed a similar car a few years ago. I'm so glad I photo-document these projects and thank God I can still remember how to find them. There's no other car detailing forum or any social media platform with as many car detailing projects fully documented covering the widest spectrum of types of vehicles.


1999 Trans Am Extreme Makeover - Testing M101 Foam Cut Compound

Before








After










Plus we replaced all the dead, sun-baked graphics and replaced with new graphics and I'm pretty sure the above write-up shares how to do this.

What ceramic coating would be most resistant to swirls from maintenance detailing?

Like others have said, besides using a quality coating, the MORE important thing will come down to how you TOUCH it after all the hard work.

Here's a few how-to articles to help you with this,

How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars

How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach


When it comes down to maintaining a scratch and swirl free finish - it all comes down to how you touch the paint - Mike Phillips


And this might be your style for this car,

How to maintain a Coated Garage Queen by Mike Phillips


1969 Dodge Coronet with 426 Hemi Engine and 4-Speed - Numbers Matching

Paint correction and ceramic coating by Mike Phillips

What other options would you recommend?

Currently I use the PBL Paint Coating and Surface Coating on one of our cars. I have multiple artcies on this product mostly talking about how easy it is to use and that both products make the paint slick feeling.

The problem in my opinion with too many coatings is they leave the paint feeling RUBBERY. If a coating leaves the paint feeling rubbery, this also means a microfiber towel or any type of cloth is NOT going to GLIDE over the paint easily. It's a real turn-off to me. I won't use coatings on my own cars that make the paint feel rubbery.

Besides the PBL products, I recently tested and used a new coating from my friend, Tunch Gorin, owner and head chemist for 3D Detailing Products. I was impressed with both the 3D One Compound/Polish and the coating. The pictures in my write-up LOOK GOOD! And in my opinion, because I took them with my iPhone - they STILL don't do the final results justice.

Review: 3D Paint Coating and 3D One Cutting Compound and Finishing Polish




Lots of good discussion throughout the above review.





Here's the picture your attached in full size.

You look pretty happy! It's fun when you get your dream car.


Welcome to AutogeekOnline!

[blsnelling]

Beautiful 30th anniversary model!!

[blsnelling]

CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0, GLISS V2, and Reload have been ordered. I appreciate all the input.

[blsnelling]

Now, assume the car is fully polished and coated. Is there a car cover that I can use on this INDOOR only, garage queen, without introducing swirls by installing and removing the cover? I would like to invest in a nice cover, but fear I may shoot myself in the foot using it.

CoverKing

[WillSports3]

Generally no point in getting one, worst case scenario you get some dust but you get a good waterless/rinseless wash, give it a quick go over and you'll be fine.

[TNMIKE46]

I agree with WillSports3. I have a cover for my WS6 but I prefer to look at the black beauty than hide it under a cover. Just sayin'.

[The Guz]

I don't both putting a car cover on my Camaro. If it gets dusty I take it out and wash it. None of that quick detailer or waterless wash wipedowns. I will on occasion do a rinseless wash.

[blsnelling]

I like to put my car up dust free, cover it, and have a totally clean car to drive when I uncover it and pull it out. I do a lot of other work in my garage and it gets really dusty.

[General Toner]

Not a frequent poster, however due to recent projects figure it's worth posting.

Two weeks back CQ UK 3 (2 coats) and 1 coat of Gliss V2 on the GLS550, earlier this week I coated the SLK similarly and 1 year back coated the 4C same.Two weeks back when did the GLS, also used CarPro Essence Plus (Rupes with white pad) on the 4C, did give a bit more shine.Prior to coating the GLS I used standard CarPro Essence (Rupes with yellow pad) after a wash and wipe down with Eraser.

In the picture of three from this evening there is roughly 100 miles on each car after most recent wash (last week all three washed). Tomorrow I will pressure wash the dust, dirt and bugs off the GLS and 4C then metrovac master blaster to dry them. SLK will need to sit dirty another week or two before spray clean. It's easy to look and judge whether car needs cleaning with Reset or Hyperwash, else just a pressure wash to get dust and light debris. I always metrovac blow dry, if I were to use a MF towel, these would be washed each time vs occassionally just a pressure wash of clean water.

Picture of SLK with wheels off is post CQ UK 3 and Gliss V2. Also coated wheels with one coat of CQ UK 3 and 1 coat of Gliss V2. Yes, I also coat the license plate front/back and wheel center caps.

Got back into this detailing 'hobby' couple of years back, such a nice break from my real job. Washing the cars is roughly 3h process for each car since wheels are roughly an hour, body another rough hour followed by blow drying and then wiping door, trunk and under hood seals. Nice way to try and clear the head and keeps toys looking nice and shiny for when go for a drive or groceries. Neighbors think I'm nuts but who cares what others think, don't need to prove anything.

[MarkD51]

CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0, GLISS V2, and Reload have been ordered. I appreciate all the input.

Most of us who go the coating route, and with one like CQ UK do this:
Wash-dry
Apply Carpro Iron-X to remove Iron Particles, rinse, dry
Clay, wash-dry
Polish.
Go over entire vehicle with Carpro Eraser.
Mask
Coat, let dry a minimum of one hour.
Apply Carpro Reload.

Yeah, it's a lot of work. On my 1997 Tahoe the first time I did it, I think this entire process mentioned above took 3 days. First day all the Washing, Iron-X Decon and Claying. The truck turned purple from the Iron-X, never ever used such a product before, I was shocked. The truck also seemed much "whiter" than just the wash before.
Iron-X is sort of "Soapy".

Second day, polishing the roof with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, PC7424XP with 4" white Lake Country Pads, and a Griots GG3 Polisher with 3" Pads. I masked where required.

Third day, Mask, and Polish the rest of the truck with the PC7424XP, 5.5" White Lake Country Pads, and Wolfgang TSR, but had to use Wolfgang Uber Compound on the hood, then return to TSR because there were some deeper random sleeks the TSR wasn't fully removing.
Wipe Down with Carpro Eraser.

Mask all trim Areas such as side moldings, window trim, door handles, etc.
Inspect carefully, then applied CQ UK. Used 2 new Carpro Boa Towels as the final wipe leveling towels, waited a good hour, applied Carpro Reload.

Yeah, a lot of work, and painful, getting up and down off a 4' ladder, bending, sitting, running a machine 2 days straight, but the truck was looking as good as the day I took delivery.

Things like proper masking take some time. During my processes, the goal was to not rush, but work efficiently and steadily. In the end, I got the desired results I sought, and then some, was very happy with how it all turned out.