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  1. #1
    Super Member MrOneEyedBoh's Avatar
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    Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    So sealant wise, is there a true difference between them? I'm looking for longevity and gloss and the vehicle is platinum white from Ford. Thus, there is pretty much no depth/reflection etc. I will be adding the 601 too... This combo has been around for years, I've just never tried it. I have yet to get past 3 months of decent beeding on a truck that sits outside. Excited to see how this combo works but confused on which polish to use from DG

  2. #2
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    I would use 111 with 601 - i use it on all my vehicles and see a year or longer from it. 105 is like 111 but has polish in it.
    17 Land Rover Discovery: Fuji White; 07 Land Rover LR3 SEV8 4WD: Java Black Micatallic; 18 Jeep Wrangler JLU Sahara: Black; 05 Jeep Liberty Limited 4WD: Light Khaki Metallic

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    Super Member Markymapo's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    I have 105 after 601; then Aquawax every 4 months . Holds up well on my CaymanS
    2022 Carrera S & Honda CRV Hybrid
    2015 Lexus IS 350, 2016 Ford F-150
    Cobalt 242 (8.1 L block, Volvo outdrive)

  4. #4
    Super Member FUNX650's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    Quote Originally Posted by MrOneEyedBoh View Post
    So sealant wise, is there a true difference between them? I'm looking for longevity and gloss and the vehicle is platinum white from Ford. Thus, there is pretty much no depth/reflection etc. I will be adding the 601 too... This combo has been around for years, I've just never tried it. I have yet to get past 3 months of decent beeding on a truck that sits outside. Excited to see how this combo works but confused on which polish to use from DG
    My suggestion is to follow Richy’s guidelines
    that are listed below. IMO: it takes the guess-
    work out of the equation.

    Quote Originally Posted by richy View Post
    I speak with a certain voice of authority
    when it comes to DG products. I am the
    one that brought the concept of mixing
    DG 501 or 105 or 111 with DG 601 at a
    4:1 ratio to the AG community. I also beta
    test products for them and have for years.

    So having qualified my position, let me give
    you my opinion on what will suit you the best:

    *************************************
    So, my suggestion to you is to
    start with DG 501/601 in a 4:1 ratio.
    Mix a small amount up in a squeeze bottle
    (like a ketchup bottle) that you can buy at
    a dollar store.

    You can also try to mix it on the pad, but I
    don't recommend doing it that way.

    Work the mix in on a medium aggressive pad
    (I adore the white Buff & Shine pad). A white
    pad will be great as you will literally see the
    crap coming off of the paint as it will discolour
    your pad. You will need 2 or 3 pads to complete
    the job. Clean them afterward in paint thinner....
    this mix will NOT rinse out with water and/or APC.

    *****************************************
    Follow that step immediately (one of the advantages
    to using the mix) with DG 105 or 111 mixed again
    4:1 with 601.

    Which one: 105 or 111?
    Ignore the whole-it's labeled as a polish nonsense-
    and choose according to what look you want.

    The 111 has a more pure sealant (high gloss, plastic
    kind of look) vs the 105 which is a bit warmer, more
    like a wax kinda look. White, yellow, and red look
    amazing with the 111 although I only use 105.


    ******************************************
    You can then do another layer of that combo or
    top it with a wax immediately afterward too.

    Aquawax will definitely make it pop if you use
    it periodically.

    **************************************

    That is my suggested route for you.

    If you do not have a machine, you can still do
    the 501/601 stage by hand. It will just take
    longer and won't be as effective as it would
    have using a machine.

    I still recommend doing it, even if only by hand.
    Hope this helps.


    Bob
    "Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk."
    ~Joaquin de Setanti

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  6. #5
    Super Member DMiglio's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    I agree with everything Bob wrote, the duragloss mix of 501/601 is a hard combo to beat. The 501 is great for its cleaners, it’s great on white and light colored vehicles such as yours. The 601 will help the product bond and cure instantly and mixed 4:1 makes it a simple one step process. I used it on a silver car some 5 or 6 years ago, in the sun and had no issues working it and allowing to haze a bit before wiping off.

    Maintained with their car wash, rinseless wash and aquawax makes it a very easy regiment with minimal products required in this day and age of endless toppers and maintenance products... man this thread has me thinking I need to start buying up some DG products haha
    Alumni Autogeek's first ever Roadshow Detailing Class Oconomowoc, Wisconsin

  7. #6
    Super Member MrOneEyedBoh's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    Thanks!!

  8. #7
    Super Member 57Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    Duragloss 111 = Straight up sealant
    Duragloss 105 = Light paint cleaner (chemical) + sealant
    Duragloss 501 = More paint cleaning ability (chemical) + sealant

    Duragloss "polishes" are a bit of a misnomer as most of them do not contain abrasives and are really more of a sealant. You would need to step up to #652 or #671 (aka SMR) to get one of their products which contains abrasives.

    On a white vehicle with paint in good condition, I would go with the #105 + #601 combo as white paint can usually do with at least a bit of paint "cleaning". Conversely, if the paint is new and uncomtaminated, go with #111 + #601 combo, or if the paint needs more cleaning go with the #501 + #601 combo (though at this point you may be more inclined to clay it depending on the extent of contamination ?)

  9. #8
    Super Member MrOneEyedBoh's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    The truck is new with 1800 miles on it. Haven't clayed it but it feels decent. Definitely needs it and plan on doing it soon with a clay puck from Griot's. Hopefully I don't need to polish it afterwards. Being white, I can prolly get away from it.

  10. #9
    Super Member FUNX650's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    Quote Originally Posted by MrOneEyedBoh View Post
    The truck is new with 1800 miles on it.
    Haven't clayed it but it feels decent.
    Definitely needs it and plan on doing it
    soon with a clay puck from Griot's.

    Hopefully I don't need to polish it afterwards.
    Being white, I can prolly get away from it.
    •I’ll recommend that you do not cut any
    corners in your Duragloss-ing processes.
    -Even if it’s just using a very light polish,
    I always polish after Claying.

    •If you will follow Richy’s guidelines that’s
    posted above to a tee, you’ll notice that
    the first step is using the 501/601 combo.
    -That combo will give you that ‘very light
    polishing step’ I’m talking about. And you’ll
    be glad you did!


    Bob
    "Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk."
    ~Joaquin de Setanti

  11. #10
    Super Member MrOneEyedBoh's Avatar
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    Re: Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

    Thanks Yeah I'll have to suck it up and do it. I was going to wait until the fall to do it because of the heat... I dont have a garage. Now on the mix of the 501/601, that CANNOT be bottled and used as times goes on, right? I have to make and use what I make. No storing here, right?

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