How to Remove Staining in Original Single Stage Lacquer Paint-HELP!

[Rich Thompson]

Hi folks. I am working on my all original 1966 Chevrolet Corvair Monza with its original single stage, lacquer paint.

The color is called Danube Blue. It is a very dark blue with small metallic flake (can almost look black in certain light). I have been using Mike Phillips method of the Meguiars #7 multiple soaking method in stages with a terry cloth towel. It has brought back a lot of depth and shine to the paint and even helped some areas that were a little crazed as well.

My issue is this: there are some spots on the car which have some what i think is staining. Areas where something has dropped onto the paint in its life that have left lighter stained spots and/or streaks. It doesn't look like brake fluid or anything of that nature; just something that was on the paint (maybe acid rain, tree sap, soda, etc.?) and lightened the spot on which it sat.

The #7, which improves the look of those spots a bit, does not make them really go away. Souveran wax helps to hide them a little, but not much.

Being careful not to remove too much paint, is there any ideas that some one may have out there to help remove or greatly improve the areas that have these stains?

I realize I may need to be stuck with these, yet someone out there may have some ideas or methods out there that I may not be aware of of removing/improving them.

Help!

Thanks,

Rich

[2black1s]

By your description I'd say there's nothing you can do beyond what you've already done.

In the past I've used "oily" protectants to saturate and brighten old single stage lacquer. You might try that, although the principle behind this is similar to what you've already done with the Meguiar's 7.

You just need to have realistic expectations in your case... It's unreasonable to expect perfection.

[Mike Phillips]

By your description I'd say there's nothing you can do beyond what you've already done.

I agree with this.

Outside of abrading the pant to your sense of risk, treating with the #7 and then the Pinnacle Wax, (good choice by the way for this type of paint after #7), you've done all you can do.

More abrading, i.e. compounding or polishing may remove more staining but as you already know, sooner or later you're going to see PRIMER and the risk in my opinion would not be worth it.

It's better to accept the staining as the natural patina for a car and car paint that is 54 years old.

[Mike Phillips]

Does the staining look like this?

From my article,

3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III


Scroll down past Type I and Type II info


Type III Water Spots


Type III Water Spots are spots that look faded or dull and are found primarily found on single stage paints after a water source lands on and then pools on the paint and is usually left to dwell on the surface for some measure of time before it evaporates or is wiped-off the surface.

Modern clear coat paints tend to be harder and impermeable, that is non-porous, so liquids don't penetrated easily and thus stain spots tend to be topical, that is only affect the very upper surface and are easier and safer to remove with a compound or polish.

Older single stage paints tend to be soft and permeable, or porous, it's common for liquids to penetrate into the paint and stain the paint below the surface. Removing stains out of single stage paints can be risky because in order to remove the stains you have to abrade the paint and if the stains penetrated deep then you risk removing too much in an effort to try to remove them completely.

[Mike Phillips]

Also...

Cool car...

[Rich Thompson]

Does the staining look like this?

Yes, Mike, the picture you provided has some similarities to the stains on my paint. Not grouped together like this, but they are a bit more isolated. In the spots I have, they have lightened the color of the paint in shape of whatever liquid had rested on the paint.

Thanks for sending me this! And for the compliment on my Corvair, Mike. It is a rare color to begin with and am very lucky to find one with its original paint


Rich

[Rich Thompson]

Hi Mike,

Yes, these look similar to spots on my paint, yet they are larger and more scattered/less numerous on the rear deck lid and roof. They have taken the shape of when whatever liquid had fallen on the car and left that spot behind.

In dragging my fingernail across them, some (not all of them, mind you) feel a little rough (possibly checking?).

I decided to add extra #7 on top of those spots in the meantime for daily soaks to see if that would add to the improvement.

Thanks for the complimen on teh car, by the way. Very lucky to have this rare color in an original paint car...only 27 K miles as well.

Rich

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Mike,

Yes, these look similar to spots on my paint, yet they are larger and more scattered/less numerous on the rear deck lid and roof.

They have taken the shape of when whatever liquid had fallen on the car and left that spot behind.

Rich

This is a common problem for older single stage paints and sorry to say there's simply not much you can do.

In fact - I would say the only thing you can do is the #7 Rub Down.

[Mike Phillips]

And for what it's worth, I cover the issue about the paint changing color and our in-ability to undo the damage is in part described here,

Paint Condition Category #9 Unstable

[Rich Thompson]

Thanks Mike. I had ordered some more Souveran early this week from your site, so i will be eager to get some on the car once I through with my multiple soaks with #7.

I think if I can just soak them as much I can, I can take some of the curse off those spots.

Thanks again, Mike!

Rich