Removing toppers from ceramic coating with out hurting the coating

[Coatingsarecrack]

Hey all,

Looking to remove various layers of toppers (think Reload, PA cosmic) with out hurting the coating. Want “clean up” and just run a Single layer. Is it possible to do w/o hurting my CQUK3.0? If so recommendations?


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[Justin at Final Inspection]

Look at IGL F4 with a black foam finishing pad.

[jojokoko]

Hey all,

Looking to remove various layers of toppers (think Reload, PA cosmic) with out hurting the coating. Want “clean up” and just run a Single layer. Is it possible to do w/o hurting my CQUK3.0? If so recommendations?


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do u have the coating applied on a black car ? just wondering coz i was about to ask the same thing here in the forum, can u see residue or stuff left over the paint coating over time and wont come off with regular washes ? i suspect too Reload is causing that since i never used wax on coating, what does your coating look like nowadays ?...

[DMiglio]

Idk how much this would work to remove toppers, but I believe this can be beneficial to deep clean a coated car and not effect the coating properties.

All carpro products to keep the synergy
-Use IronX and TarX to chemically cleanse the surface
-Wash with Reset

I only assume this might work because as I’ve seen, these toppers rarely provide the full amount of protection they claim (up to 6 months) and may not hang on after this. I’ll let other more experienced folks chime in, that’s just my .02!

EDIT:
should’ve looked over the other posts, what Justin said would remove them while replenishing the coating, if I remember correctly, the IGL product would be similar to Essence+. Cleans and repairs the coating.

[acuRAS82]

You could try using a Prep Polish such as Mckees Prep Polish. Your fave brand prolly has one, or maybe Eraser has the same purpose? Prep polished generally remove sealants and waxes but won’t remove coatings. Not positive it would remove Cosmic but it may. Should definitely remove Reload.

Dmiglio’s response above may be the most conservative way to regain all coating properties but may take a number of Reset washes over weeks.

[acuRAS82]

Look at IGL F4 with a black foam finishing pad.

I think this would leave a new “topping” which may or may not be desired by OP... something to consider for him.

[DMiglio]

Dmiglio’s response above may be the most conservative way to regain all coating properties but may take a number of Reset washes over weeks.

Yeah I agree with it not being a one time thing and as you say, multiple washes! Just erring on the side of caution with this one as I’ve no experience in topping removal without total LSP removal.

[acuRAS82]

Yeah I agree with it not being a one time thing and as you say, multiple washes! Just erring on the side of caution with this one as I’ve no experience in topping removal without total LSP removal.

Caution is wise with long term coatings. Your method won’t hurt the coating for sure.

[SWETM]

I would go with DMiglio suggestions on doing a thorough decon wash with IronX and especially TarX. Then following with only Reset washes for the next month or 2. The thought about useing TarX is that it claims to desolve the glossenhancer part of oils in Reload and even on Gliss. If you do spray on and let it dwell and PW clean rinsing it off a couple of times. And maybe very gently wipe it in the paint and thoroughly rinse it off. Then you might not get the highest performance back from the CQUK directly and maybe not ever. It depends on how the hydrophobic top layer of CQUK has holding up to the toppers. With 4-6 washes with Carpro Reset car soap and the wear from mother nature. And I think that you will see how the performance is on the top of the CQUK coating. Then that you don't use any other protection and glossenhancers product while doing this. So it's trying it out. If you have hard water where you wash your car I would also use Carpro Spotless so if you have minerals on the paint you desolve them too during the decon wash. You can do a test spot when you have done the washes after the decon and do another decon wash on the test spot/panel and see if you can get to a cleaner CQUK layer faster.

If you won't get the performance back on the CQUK after this. I would actually test to apply Carpro lite after a decon with TarX and followed with Carpro Eraser. Before you apply the Carpro lite on it. Why lite is that's said to be build on the CQUK technology. And think that you would get back the most like performance from it as the CQUK 3.0 has. If the finish is not so good and would benefit from a very light correction. You have the Essence Plus and the Carpro Glosspads combo to fix that and leave as much as possible of the CQUK coating left on the paint.

Some says when you have used even Reload too often it's hard and takes a long time to get the CQUK coating back when you have started to use the Reload. IMO the sacrificial layer of the coating you have has gone to far generally speaking this is. CQUK may need Reload directly after the application of it. If you live in a high humidity environment or have raining in the forecast the coming week after the application. This is how long it takes for it to fully cure the top hydrophobic layer of CQUK. If you don't use the Reload in this case you might be getting water spots that interfear with the hydrophobic top layer of CQUK. And if you let the Reload wear off after this you get the full performance from CQUK. Next when it's a benefit to use Carpro Reload is when you see a degrading of the CQUK so you can reload the performance from it. This is how I look at it and have understand it when Reload where coming out. So basicly Reload is a kind of repair product for cquartz coatings. If used to often it takes over to much of the Reload cararictics. And the same with other toppers used on the CQUK. Then the use of Carpro Reset IMO is also very important to get the coating as clean as possible so it maintain CQUK high performance. If you want to have the CQUK coating to do it's thing.

[The Guz]

The chemical decon is the way to go. Essence Plus or equivalent is essentially topping the coati which is not what you are looking for.

As mentioned here and on other forums chemical decon with tarx, Ironx and a strong wash with Reset. I’ve seen it mentioned to mix 2 ounces of Reset instead of the typical 1 ounce in the wash bucket. This will degrade most of what is in the top of it doesn’t fully remove it. In time it will all be gone.

You don’t have Gliss si using tarx is a non-issue.