Klasse AIO and High Gloss Sealant, excellent beading but no sheeting as such

[SixZee]

Hello folks,

I followed resources from this board and KlasseAct's suggestions on various threads to apply both of these. I did very little paint correction due to lack of tools and electricity in the parking lot. On one car, I applied only one AIO coat and 3 coats of high gloss sealant (one coat every weekend) and on the other 2 coats of AIO (in the same week, 3 days apart) and 2 coats of high gloss sealant (one each weekend). It turned out way better than I could have imagined.

Now that almost 3 weeks have passed and we made a 1500 miles Fall trip to ME, I figured, water beading is excellent but there is no water sheeting as such. At least from what I have seen on many YouTube videos as good examples of water sheeting. Excess water of course flows away but not in a fashion seen on the YouTube videos.

I wonder if thats OK/thats how it acts or a result of my amateur job?

Thanks in advance.

[Klasse Act]

First off I'm glad the Klasse twins exceeded your expectations, they are really are an underrated product, well, more a forgotten product I guess. As far as no sheeting but beading it's all about the product, NOT how you prepped anything. BTW, did you do a chemical and/or mechanical decon first and forgot to tell us?

Your car will be well protected through the winter, no problems, just maintain with your favorite RW or WW or if you have access to a hose or battery powered power washer like me, mix in a good 2BM along with it every other week, or weekly, who am I kidding

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[SWETM]

Is the water behavior and sheeting from it on a dirty vehical or when you have just washed it? The sheeting ability is what degrades first on a dirty vehical. Then the beading gets more inregualar during this time too. But the it would be revived with a wash to almost like when you had applyied it. Maybe the Klasse twins is more of a beading behavior than sheeting behavior. Useally the first extreme water beading degrades after a few washes and gets more of a sheeting behavior from most LSPs.

If you want more beading and sheeting from it you can top it with a good spray wax/QD. Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer/BSD is awesome to get a higher performance from the base protection products. Use every month on dry paint and be amazed LOL. The downside is a little more grabby surface but it's still beads and sheets almost like a ceramic coating the BSD. Then if you want to have it in the family of the Klasse twins I think they have an acrylic based protection. Ultima has a waterless wash concentrate with acrylic polymers in it and I know they have a spray wax with it. Think that the fk1000p also is acrylic based so their FK425 QD could also be a LSP that works. And also Duragloss I think is also in the acrylic based family. They have a rinseless wash concentrate with Aquawax in it that says to be very impresive when it comes to the durability. Maybe it's the DG #931 it's called. The waterless wash or rinseless wash diluted in QD dilution gets very economical and works really great too.

/ Tony

[FUNX650]

“Beading” is the result of several factors/
characteristics of water-behavior—among
which are: adhesion, cohesion, surface
tension, etc.

Some LSPs are formulated to bead;
some are formulated to sheet.
Note: Given the right set of circumstances,
LSPs can exhibit both beading and sheeting.
(Ex: water will bead on a surface after it’s
been rained upon; yet will sheet off of a surface
when the water source is a free-flowing stream
of water from the end of a hose—>perhaps the
YouTube-style you have referenced?)


•Regardless:
-Notwithstanding the ‘water sheeting affect’
described above...By observing the initial
water-behavior caused by the Klasse Twins,
I’m going to assume that they are formulated
to bead water.

-Thereafter: Any severe deviation from that
initial water beading behavior will mean that
the Klasses have been compromised, and will
need to be renewed, so to speak.


•IMO:
-Only consider the sheeting aspect when you
want to use the free-flowing water source to
create: a lesser amount of water to dry from
a surface.
-YouTube doesn’t always faithfully present:
“the rest of the story” ~Paul Harvey



Bob

[Klasse Act]

How old is the LSP

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[SixZee]

My bad, I went through following steps
- Regular wash (I had to use standard carwash, no brushless/touchless/coin op close to me)
- At home, I wiped it down with rinseless wash (Wolfgang Uber Rinseless wash)
- I did chemical decon with Eagle One PVD and Aluminum Wheel cleaner ( It was my first-time use and its gentler than Iron X so was erring towards caution)
- Washed the car with rinseless wash
- I nanoskinned the surface (blue bar)
- Washed the car with rinseless wash
- AIO, waited for an hour, wiped it down with Meguair's Ultimate quick detailer and then applied the sealant.

Took me a week to do one car as I was going panel by panel, was trying to be as thorough as possible.

(For one of the cars, used ScratchX to remove some of the minor scratches after using a clay bar)

Won't be able to use too much water in the winter. Apartment Super gave me a friendly reminder not to use a lot of water in winter for car washing (even though I do all work in an obscure corner of the parking lot). I totally get it where he is coming from. A lady slipped off wet leaves 2 Octobers ago and now she is suing landscaping company (!!!). I can do spray and wipe but no 2 bucket method or power washer (I got a gallon size garden sprayer)

@Tony,
I noticed this behavior on a newly sealed car but my first thought was probably it is not yet cured or the behavior will improve over time. Now that after 1500 miles run with few showers in between, the car is dirty and can see it very clearly. So pretty sure, it is not the dirt that 'causing' the behavior. That's how it is. One thing for sure, the surface is so sleek that no dirt really 'sticks' to it. Washes off right away with a garden sprayer.

Your product list is long. I will keep them in mind. At the moment, I am not using any LSP as such, other than Meguair's ultimate quick detailer. I have been considering Sonax BSD as an LSP. Considering dilution 1:1 with distilled water before use. It's not exactly a cheap product or @Klasse Act's recipe of 1oz of Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash and 1oz of Klasse Sealant in a gallon of distilled water.

Agree with you @Bob, Klasse twins seem to have been formulated to bead and not to sheet.

I will try out @Klasse Act's recipe for the LSP first. Then will give a shot to Sonax BSD diluted 1:1

Thanks again, folks.

[Klasse Act]

Lots if extra steps there Post some pics and don't forget about "FrankenDetailer" for maintenance

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[oneheadlite]

Post some pics and don't forget about "FrankenDetailer" for maintenance

What is the Frankendetailer? I’ve seen you reference it in the past, but despite searching I don’t think I ever figured out what the mix is.
I did manage to seek out what the “AlienKleen” you mention was though. (Optimum Power Clean for anyone else that was wondering)

[Klasse Act]

What is the Frankendetailer? I’ve seen you reference it in the past, but despite searching I don’t think I ever figured out what the mix is.
I did manage to seek out what the “AlienKleen” you mention was though. (Optimum Power Clean for anyone else that was wondering)

1 gallon of distilled water, remove 4 ounces of water and add 1-2 ounces of Klasse sealant glaze and 1 oz of your favorite RW, shake well. This can be used wet or dry

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[PaulMys]

1 gallon of distilled water, remove 4 ounces of water and add 1-2 ounces of Klasse sealant glaze and 1 oz of your favorite RW, shake well. This can be used wet or dry

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I have this mental picture of you in a basement full of smoking beakers, wearing a lab coat, and shouting "IT'S ALIVE!!!" Rog.