Problem with Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash

**Dr Oldz** · 10-08-2019, 12:55 AM

Originally Posted by bofh

The bottle says something like "mix up to 2 ounces to 3-5 gallons of water" which isn't super precise to begin with.

Take the average and mix .5 oz per gallon.

Yea this stuff is expensive but if used properly and carefully.... it is amazing.

**Bobby B.** · 10-08-2019, 01:49 PM

The Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash is a great product. It looks like the paint surface was either too hot or the Coating Wash dried on the surface from being applied in direct sunlight. Always make sure the paint surface is cool to the touch and work in a nice shaded area. Work in smaller sections and rinse often.

Polish or One Step products will remove the Uber Sio2 Coating Wash from your vehicle. Once you polish your paint surface, go ahead and reapply the Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and maintain it with the Uber SiO2 Coating Wash.

**lkaten** · 10-08-2019, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by Bobby B.

The Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash is a great product. It looks like the paint surface was either too hot or the Coating Wash dried on the surface from being applied in direct sunlight. Always make sure the paint surface is cool to the touch and work in a nice shaded area. Work in smaller sections and rinse often.

Polish or One Step products will remove the Uber Sio2 Coating Wash from your vehicle. Once you polish your paint surface, go ahead and reapply the Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and maintain it with the Uber SiO2 Coating Wash.

Thanks Bobby. Do you think WG Total Swirl Remover would work to take it off?

**Bobby B.** · 10-08-2019, 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by lkaten

Thanks Bobby. Do you think WG Total Swirl Remover would work to take it off?

Yes, but you shouldn't have to go that aggressive unless you have swirl marks in the paint surface. I would use the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze if you already have that product.

Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0, Wolfgang finishing polish, polising glaze, machine glaze

**lkaten** · 10-09-2019, 09:08 AM

Originally Posted by Bobby B.

Yes, but you shouldn't have to go that aggressive unless you have swirl marks in the paint surface. I would use the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze if you already have that product.

Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0, Wolfgang finishing polish, polising glaze, machine glaze

I'll give the WG Finishing Glaze a try...thanks.

**lkaten** · 10-09-2019, 03:18 PM

So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?

**SWETM** · 10-10-2019, 10:53 AM

Originally Posted by lkaten

So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?

What did you use to apply them with?

I would use a mf applicator pad/sponge to get a little more bite from it. Move the pad back and forth with some pressure and try to keep the pad on the smears. Somewhere around 8-12 passes and wipe it off and inspect.

Did your polishing not make a little dent in the smearing at all?

It's needed to be casious so you don't abrade too much of the paint off. If you have smaller places where you have and you use a mf towel to polishing with by wrap it around some fingers. Remember with much pressure and it's easy to do many passes this can get very aggressive combo.

A polisher would be to prefer as you get the pressure so much more spread out on the pad. And it's movement is superior to the hand movement.

They don't seem to be so bad in how thick the smears are. I don't want to scare you but I have seen one useing Gyeon Wet Coat in a very wrong way. He covered the wet car with a lot of it over the whole car. Took his time and thought about it like a wax. When he rinsed it off almost non came off and he had a thick layer covered the whole car. A detailer helped him out but he had to wet sanding the most off with P3000 grit on a sander. Then polishing it up again. The plastic trim and rubber seals was not anything he could be doing with. Luckly it didn't look as bad as the paint and glass was. This is not adressed at you but generally. We will see more of these happens with the spray on rinse off product and infused car soaps that leaves SiO2 behind. As many don't read the descriptions and also maybe as you don't think it can go so bad with a little sun out when you use these kind of products. The problem gets when you going to try to get it off. You have a short window of time after you have used it to maybe be able to reactivate it with the same product or useing a strong chemical and also a polish to get it off. But that you have some hours at most to correcting it. If you wait over a day or more the more it has cured and the more difficult it will be to get it off. I have mentioned this before in some threads that when it gets we get more access to these OTC. We will see more of these situations come.

I really hope that you can fix this by polishing it off. Just be carefull when you are not over the smears. Try to work in very small sections when you polishing. Not larger than around 5"×5" of the area that you are polishing. When you have reach through the smear it's useally visual when you wipe the polish off. And when you have done that stay away from the TSR and switch to the Finishing Glaze to do the last polishing with. It's going to take a lot of elbow grease into this.

/ Tony

**Bobby B.** · 10-11-2019, 01:56 PM

Originally Posted by lkaten

So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?

Wow! That's amazing durability if it didn't come off with either the Finishing Glaze or Total Swirl Remover. I would try them again with a DA Polisher and some light cutting / polishing pads. You shouldn't have to go as aggressive as a Compound. I've had no issues removing SiO2 staining in paint with just a light polish.

**fightnews** · 10-12-2019, 03:47 AM

Originally Posted by lkaten

So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?

I'm thinking its from something else and you just don't realize it. Soap doesn't cause permanent damage like that. It's gotta be something that got on there that you didnt notice until after you wash the car.

**lkaten** · 10-12-2019, 08:00 AM

Originally Posted by SWETM

What did you use to apply them with?

I would use a mf applicator pad/sponge to get a little more bite from it. Move the pad back and forth with some pressure and try to keep the pad on the smears. Somewhere around 8-12 passes and wipe it off and inspect.

Did your polishing not make a little dent in the smearing at all?

It's needed to be casious so you don't abrade too much of the paint off. If you have smaller places where you have and you use a mf towel to polishing with by wrap it around some fingers. Remember with much pressure and it's easy to do many passes this can get very aggressive combo.

A polisher would be to prefer as you get the pressure so much more spread out on the pad. And it's movement is superior to the hand movement.

They don't seem to be so bad in how thick the smears are. I don't want to scare you but I have seen one useing Gyeon Wet Coat in a very wrong way. He covered the wet car with a lot of it over the whole car. Took his time and thought about it like a wax. When he rinsed it off almost non came off and he had a thick layer covered the whole car. A detailer helped him out but he had to wet sanding the most off with P3000 grit on a sander. Then polishing it up again. The plastic trim and rubber seals was not anything he could be doing with. Luckly it didn't look as bad as the paint and glass was. This is not adressed at you but generally. We will see more of these happens with the spray on rinse off product and infused car soaps that leaves SiO2 behind. As many don't read the descriptions and also maybe as you don't think it can go so bad with a little sun out when you use these kind of products. The problem gets when you going to try to get it off. You have a short window of time after you have used it to maybe be able to reactivate it with the same product or useing a strong chemical and also a polish to get it off. But that you have some hours at most to correcting it. If you wait over a day or more the more it has cured and the more difficult it will be to get it off. I have mentioned this before in some threads that when it gets we get more access to these OTC. We will see more of these situations come.

I really hope that you can fix this by polishing it off. Just be carefull when you are not over the smears. Try to work in very small sections when you polishing. Not larger than around 5"×5" of the area that you are polishing. When you have reach through the smear it's useally visual when you wipe the polish off. And when you have done that stay away from the TSR and switch to the Finishing Glaze to do the last polishing with. It's going to take a lot of elbow grease into this.

/ Tony

Thanks Tony,
I noticed some very light smudges that did come off with Finishing Glaze and TSW. For the most part, the smears did not show improvement. I suppose it would be logical to use my DA polisher. I'm not very comfortable using it yet, so wanted to give it a try by hand first. Thanks for your advice.