Ceramic Coating Experiment! Am I just wasting time and money?

[DMiglio]

Ok so here goes, mainly did this as a test to find out the least amount of prep required for a ceramic coating application. I was honestly looking for something to do and who here doesn’t enjoy messing around detailing their rides!?

I was inspired by two things, firstly, a retail shoppers mindset on detailing and paint protection and secondly, Mike Phillips article where he coated a vehicle in record time! With that in mind I wanted to give something a shot.

Here’s that article:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...e-coating.html

For my first inspiration, I was thinking how a retail shopper might, they want to clean shine and protect their car for the coming months. They’ve read about coatings and knowing nothing other than that they’re “invincible” and last “forever!” Looking over the shelves they see a bottle of McKee’s 37 Paint Coating, there it is, that word, COATING! They’ve also read it needs a squeaky clean surface, so grabs some prep spray.

Second inspiration was Mike’s article on coating a vehicle in 15 minutes. I knew I couldn’t do it that quickly, but wanted to challenge myself and again thinking like a regular Joe Schmoe, spray it on let it sit and wipe it off.

Just some other details to get out of the way about the vehicle. It is a 2010 Mini Cooper S, outside 24/7, and has just under 100k miles so paint isn’t perfect by any means, just your average daily! I’ve decon’d in the past but that was beginning of summer so there is iron and other fallout on the paint now. Living in an apartment I’ve not been able to polish the paint either unfortunately, but this maybe plays into the retail shopper experience(your neighbor who likes to wash and wax their car but knows nothing about a clay bar, iron decon products and won’t polish bc it takes too long and doesn’t own a machine to do it!)

My process was as follows and believe me, it’s quite unbecoming to any of us here!
1)Waterless washed using a pump sprayer and ONR, dilution around 1:32 or so.
2)Heavily sprayed down with Gyeon Paint Prep(probably used 12 Oz on my little car).
3)Final wipedown lightly misting the prep on a towel to insure cleanliness.
4)Intalled the coating.

Thats it!

From start to finish took me less than 2 hours to wash, prep, apply and wrap everything up. I’ll do my best to keep the thread updated and get pictures as well!

Products used:
ONR
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products
Gyeon Paint Prep
GYEON Q2M Prep - 500 ml
Mckee’s 37 Paint Coating
Paint Coating, nano paint sealant, ceramic paint coating, nano paint coating

[PaulMys]

As long as you are having fun with it, there is no waste of time or money, IMO.

In fact, I think this idea is refreshing. I love the approach of the "Joe Shmo" guy at Walmart. Brilliant!

[Sizzle Chest]

^^^I'm with Pauly. Love these tests/reviews/experiments!

[DMiglio]

Thanks for the encouragement guys! I’m not too sure what to expect but I’ll keep it updated.

My biggest concern now is any premature failure due to morning dew since where I’m at(Illinois) the weather has been pleasantly warm during the day but nights can be low 60’s. Today was cooler 74* and tonight low is expected to be mid 50’s*. Any thoughts?

As far as maintenance goes, I usually get 1 or 2 rinseless or waterless washes in a week where I used a detail spray or spray wax as a drying aid and quick top up to my base LSP. Once a month I’ll take it to a self service wash bay and I just did that last weekend.

This time around dealing with a coating, I’ll use n914 for rinseless/waterless washes and Mckees Si02 soap at the wash bay. As far as drying aid I could do n914 as a detail spray/drying aid. I was also thinking of topping up with Hydro Blue right before winter fully sets in(maybe end of November) and using Merlin’s Elixer instead of n914.

Thoughts here guys? Anything specific you’d like to see? Toppers/soaps with nothing left behind or something that reinforces the coating? I do really want to do Hydro Blue for my own sanity during winter haha.

Assuming this all isn’t a total failure I’m hoping this provides some info to all of us!

[DMiglio]

Here’s some pics from a couple hours ago, don’t mind the trim it needs some work..

[PaulMys]

No thoughts from me as I am not a coating user.

I do however, read just about 99% of everything on this forum.

And I like this experiment, as I said.

[SWETM]

For testing purpose I would go with the N-914 and SiO2 Wash. If going with EcH2O I would use that and don't ad the extra Reload or other SiO2 sealant. I can understand the wanting to go with the Hydro Blue too. But if you normaly gets warmer temperature above the freezing point during the winter where you live. I would get the Hydro Blue but wait to apply it until the coating fails during the winter or shows signs of it. The spray on rinse off products I have used have worked great as it's just not is freezing. And all in the name of the testing purpose LOL. If you have road salt on the roads where you live. Get you a small bottle of Carpro Reset car soap as it's crazy good to get the coating perfectly clean. The coating is prone to be clogged as any LSP in the harsher winter environment. I even help the SiO2 sealants with a tar remover a couple of times during the winter months on the lower side panels and the back of the car. To not clogg so easy and get a cleaner paint to apply a spray on rinse off product after such a wash. With a coating you don't useally needs to be topping it up after this.

Awesome testing and I think that we will be surprised in the longevity from it even with the not so thorough prep work as a polishing step would be doing. Will be interesting to follow your experience with this.

/ Tony

[DMiglio]

Hey Tony, thanks so much for chiming in! I appreciate your comments and thoughts on the direction I should go as far as maintaining and boosting the coating. You’re knowledge and experience in this area is held in high regard by me and I’m sure many others as your threads are testament to what a thorough wash and decon can do to revive a coating.

I’ll be taking it all into consideration when coming up with a plan to maintain and boost the coating! Thanks again.

I work early mornings so when I got in my car around 4:30am the morning dew was quite heavy, enough so that when I drove you could see water streaking across the windows and painted surfaces. I’m worried this may cause issues as I wrapped things up only 12 hours before around 4:30 pm Monday evening. Anybody with experience on coatings and morning dew within the 24 hour cure time?

On a positive note though the fact the dew was able to actually break the surface tension and move across the vehicle while driving has me pleasently surprised!

[SWETM]

Thanks for the nice words!

I go often too long before topping or reapply the LSP. As I'm so interested to see how long it lasts before it's totaly fails LOL. With coatings you often have a longer window from when it's degrades so you call it necessary to be topped to get a higher performance back. Than until it gets totaly failed. Then some like to top coatings right away and it's sometimes necessary to be done. As in your case with the morning dew. If you applyied a topper like you would do on say CQUK 3.0 with Reload after the recommended wait in between them. You would reduce the risk of the dew makeing any impact on the coating the first 24h and up to a week. If the dew where to dry on the paint that is. Now you drove the car and got it to sheet off. Or you would be drying the dew off before it dries. It's not often it has impact on the coating. But it can mess with the hydrophobic top layer of the coating if you are unlucky. And even leave water spots on it in rare cases. Think that you got enough time for it to cure before the dew came in. That can be a higher risk that you have pulled out the car directly after the application and the dew came in. Coatings use the air to cure as it should or bonds to the paint. With water on it too soon you can get a different kind of chemical reaction when it cures/bonds. This can happens with high humidity too. And it's not only the coatings that can have problems with this. I have had failed application with the older version of Ultima Paint Guard Plus just with the evening dew came in short after application. And a much shorter longevity from Turtle Wax ICE Seal N Shine when it started to rain directly after the SNS was applyied. It shorted the longevity to 6 weeks to total failure from SNS. Applyied it again in better weather conditions and it's still going really strong which it didn't the first time. The same with coatings that some are more sensitive than others from getting water on them too early. And you notice it both in the performance and longevity. But not easy to notice in the beginning of the coating life. As it's even on a lower performance has a great water behavior from it. But you should have awesome behavior from it and it should hold up a long time before you see a degrade in the behavior from it. That's one thing that can happen with a lesser prep work. But if you have a clean paint it's useally that you lock in the marring if you have any. Also it's behavior can be affected if you have too much of wash marring. As the coating is not able to be bonded on a smooth surface that's what is getting it to have an extreme water behavior and self cleaning ability from it. Protection wise it's there and do it's thing and can last longer even when the hydrophobic top layer is degraded. And then it's where you have the toppers coming in to rescue LOL.

Either way you go it's going to be interesting to hear how you experience this test. This is something that's not been tested hardly. I could even see a value with the McKees 37 Ceramic Coating which you get a lot of product in the bottle from it. That when you see it degrades enough to you feel it's time to top it up. Why don't just do a thorough decon wash with Reset and if needed a tar remover and iron remover and a panel prep wipe product. Then put on a new layer of the coating over it. Instead of getting cured in the bottle you use it as a topper on it self. If you get more than 5-6 months extra longevity from it. It would be great. As long as the paint is clean and not too much of bonded contaminants. I would try it and maybe split it with a more dedicated topper and see if it's a value in useing it up.

So many choices LOL

[Mike Phillips]

My process was as follows and believe me, it’s quite unbecoming to any of us here!

1)Waterless washed using a pump sprayer and ONR, dilution around 1:32 or so.

2)Heavily sprayed down with Gyeon Paint Prep(probably used 12 Oz on my little car).

3)Final wipedown lightly misting the prep on a towel to insure cleanliness.

4)Intalled the coating.



Thats it!

From start to finish took me less than 2 hours to wash, prep, apply and wrap everything up. I’ll do my best to keep the thread updated and get pictures as well!

I think this is a GREAT experiment and I'm looking forward to seeing how well the coating hold up without doing any of the normal paint correction work.


I'm writing copy for something similar for Dr. Beasley's Formula 1201 Ceramic Paint Coating for My Classic Car which reaches the masses.