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Junior Member
Re: HELP! Can't get rid of haze
Polishing with a compound and aggressive pads will haze a lot of vehicles I’ve found. I’ve never had an issue polishing the haze, or rotary holograms out with a good fine polish and foam polishing pads.
After you correct with a “compound”, you have to finish with a “polish” to refine it and get rid of the haze and marring left by the more aggressive compound.
I find if you slow your hand speed right down when you are on the polish step it helps a lot in the end product.
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Re: HELP! Can't get rid of haze
You’re trying to one step a very difficult paint in difficult weather with less than optimal pads. Those pads have grooves I believe. It’s possible that you have residue in the grooves that are causing problems also.
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Re: HELP! Can't get rid of haze
Ultimate Polish has some fillers in it and can give you missleading results. And I would avoid to use it before a ceramic coating. They are pretty heavy on polishing oils that more than often needs to be wiped off 2 times with a IPA/ panel prep wipe product. Ultimate Compound is a light cutting compound if you don't work it for a long time. Around how many passes per sections are you doing?
When it comes to the pads I'm not surprised that you have problems with the finishing with the orange and yellow foam pads. They are heavy cutting and compound pads so they can leave the haze you have on it's own and not depending on the polishes you use. Black and light blue and white is the cut from the least aggressive and up. On some sensitive paints a white hex logic pad can be leaving the haze too afterwards. Have your truck being repainted at any time?
Try to find or order a finishing polish/ polish like M210 or GG Perfecting Cream or Sonax Perfect Finish or Menzerna SF3500 or you get the point a quality one. Maybe it's so that the texture on the hex logic pads don't suits your paint. So get a finishing pad and a light polishing pad that has a flat foam. The small adjustments can be what's you need. Cause obviously the paint has too much of defects on it and the paint don't suit it to be one stepping it. And at least me when I one step it's about to get a finish that is clear of any haze. If this combo also takes out the defects or to an acceptable level of defects removal it's great. Otherwise it's just to do a cutting step and finishing step on their own. And darker colored paints is harder to get away with 1 step it as the clarity is so important to leave you satisfied. For personal vehicals I don't 1 step them if not the finishing polish take care of the defects as well of cause. If you feel to be takeing the risk of polishing with the UP and the risk is that it can be messing with the coatings bonding. Try the black hex logic pad and UP and speed 3.5-4.5 and armspeed of an inch per second and do 3-5 passes. If it's Carpro eraser you have use that and spray it on the polished section you just did and wipe it off with a short nap mf towel and maybe a second time with more Eraser and a plush mf towel to wipe it off with. If you don't get a clear finish by this. Then it's time to switch out the polish and still not getting there the pads. I would recommend you to do both switched out. I would go over the other panels you polished if they still have a slightly haze on them to clear them up when you have it dialed in.
You seems to be experienced but mentions it either way that don't forget to shake up the polishes bottles. The abrasives falls down easier when it's hot outside. So I shake it up good right before I apply it on the pad.
Have not experienced my self with this red mud and almost like clay when wet. Some says it can even discolor the clearcoat if you are unlucky. Did the acid wheel cleaner make any difference on the spots? Different chemicals desolves different kind of dirt and contaminants is something that's important to know. So try out what I suggested before with an APC/ alkaline based degreaser this can be a citrus based degreaser too and then a petroleum based degreaser which useally is what's tar remover is made of. I was going to suggest the next move to be the acid based cleaner. Those 3 chemicals is a base of different way to desolve or release the bond on the dirt you are removing. Could be worth after the cleaning with these to do a wash where they have been to neutralise any leftovers from them. And put the truck in the sun again so more off the stain can come out if it's more down in the clearcoat.
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Re: HELP! Can't get rid of haze
This is why you do a TEST SPOT.
Dial-in a process that works perfect to one small section of paint before buffing out the entire car or even an entire panel.
You PROVE your process before going any further.
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Re: HELP! Can't get rid of haze
Originally Posted by
Mike lambert
You’re trying to one step a very difficult paint in difficult weather with less than optimal pads. Those pads have grooves I believe. It’s possible that you have residue in the grooves that are causing problems also.
I was HOPING for a one step lol. What you call 'difficult' weather is just 'typical' weather this time of year in Dallas lol. I need a bigger garage that so my truck will fit and I can install central A/C. I dont mind having to do a 2 or even 3 step, but this was getting crazy. And yes, the pads have grooves. Even though I clean the pads thoroughly before storing them, I cleaned them again (my white pads) when this started. And I do plan on purchasing some new pads since most of my pads have a lot of miles on them now.
Originally Posted by
SWETM
Ultimate Polish has some fillers in it and can give you missleading results. And I would avoid to use it before a ceramic coating.
Too late, it's already done and coated They are pretty heavy on polishing oils that more than often needs to be wiped off 2 times with a IPA/ panel prep wipe product. Ultimate Compound is a light cutting compound if you don't work it for a long time. Around how many passes per sections are you doing?
When it comes to the pads I'm not surprised that you have problems with the finishing with the orange and yellow foam pads. They are heavy cutting and compound pads so they can leave the haze you have on it's own and not depending on the polishes you use. Black and light blue and white is the cut from the least aggressive and up. On some sensitive paints a white hex logic pad can be leaving the haze too afterwards. Have your truck being repainted at any time?
Yeah, I even dropped down to a blue at one point hoping it would help, but no luck. Since the truck was offroad 90% of it's time for several weeks, there were tons of scratches from waist high weeds/grass, thorns, branches, etc. Some areas were worse than others, hence the need for so many different pads. It's all factory paint except for the rear driver side door that got backed into a couple of years ago.
Try to find or order a finishing polish/ polish like M210 or GG Perfecting Cream or Sonax Perfect Finish or Menzerna SF3500 or you get the point a quality one. Maybe it's so that the texture on the hex logic pads don't suits your paint. So get a finishing pad and a light polishing pad that has a flat foam.
-noted- Thanks! The small adjustments can be what's you need. Cause obviously the paint has too much of defects on it and the paint don't suit it to be one stepping it. And at least me when I one step it's about to get a finish that is clear of any haze. If this combo also takes out the defects or to an acceptable level of defects removal it's great. Otherwise it's just to do a cutting step and finishing step on their own. And darker colored paints is harder to get away with 1 step it as the clarity is so important to leave you satisfied. For personal vehicals I don't 1 step them if not the finishing polish take care of the defects as well of cause. If you feel to be takeing the risk of polishing with the UP and the risk is that it can be messing with the coatings bonding. Try the black hex logic pad and UP and speed 3.5-4.5 and armspeed of an inch per second and do 3-5 passes. If it's Carpro eraser you have use that and spray it on the polished section you just did and wipe it off with a short nap mf towel and maybe a second time with more Eraser and a plush mf towel to wipe it off with. If you don't get a clear finish by this. Then it's time to switch out the polish and still not getting there the pads. I would recommend you to do both switched out. I would go over the other panels you polished if they still have a slightly haze on them to clear them up when you have it dialed in.
You seems to be experienced but mentions it either way that don't forget to shake up the polishes bottles. The abrasives falls down easier when it's hot outside. So I shake it up good right before I apply it on the pad.
Have not experienced my self with this red mud and almost like clay when wet. Some says it can even discolor the clearcoat if you are unlucky. Did the acid wheel cleaner make any difference on the spots?
No, it didnt make any difference. Different chemicals desolves different kind of dirt and contaminants is something that's important to know. So try out what I suggested before with an APC/ alkaline based degreaser this can be a citrus based degreaser too and then a petroleum based degreaser which useally is what's tar remover is made of. I was going to suggest the next move to be the acid based cleaner. Those 3 chemicals is a base of different way to desolve or release the bond on the dirt you are removing. Could be worth after the cleaning with these to do a wash where they have been to neutralise any leftovers from them. And put the truck in the sun again so more off the stain can come out if it's more down in the clearcoat.
Originally Posted by
Mike Phillips
This is why you do a TEST SPOT.
Dial-in a process that works perfect to one small section of paint before buffing out the entire car or even an entire panel.
You PROVE your process before going any further.
The test spot worked great...I was able to finish out the entire hood. It was the next section that didnt want to cooperate lol. And I didnt have anything else left to try until the next morning when I picked up the Ultimate Polish and Ultimate Compound. Since it was only a haze, I didnt concern myself with it too much....wont make that mistake again. But even still, every section behaved differently and took a different approach.
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Re: HELP! Can't get rid of haze
That my friend would be called
The exception to the rule
If the products you tested on the worked on the hood and not on other body panels- then something changed.
Could be different paint - as in the car fad been wrecked and repainted.
Or paint and abrasive residue cross contaminating the process.
Always work clean
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