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  1. #11
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    Re: Claybar plastic baggy test

    Quote Originally Posted by 2black1s View Post
    2-3 passes is not nearly enough to remove anything other than the lightest of contaminants. I'd say 20-30 passes would be more like it.

    It's really a trial and error thing until you find the sweet spot for what it takes to remove all, or nearly all, of the bonded contaminants - but 2-3 passes is nowhere in the ballpark by my experience.
    Do you personally stop once baggie test is cleared ? If there is few bumps here and there you continue or stop


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  2. #12
    Senior Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Claybar plastic baggy test

    Quote Originally Posted by animescreen View Post
    Do you personally stop once baggie test is cleared ? If there is few bumps here and there you continue or stop


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    Once the paint feels smooth, go ahead and machine polish.

    One or two noticeable "bumps" will be polished away.
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

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  4. #13
    Senior Member 2black1s's Avatar
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    Re: Claybar plastic baggy test

    Quote Originally Posted by animescreen View Post
    Do you personally stop once baggie test is cleared ? If there is few bumps here and there you continue or stop


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    Personally, I look for about 90-95% improvement during the clay process. The baggie test is so sensitive that absolute perfection is not a realistic goal.

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  6. #14
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    Re: Claybar plastic baggy test

    Quote Originally Posted by animescreen View Post
    I passed it back and forth 2 to 3x in one secton (just back and forth method and not lot of pressure) then wiped it off with mf towel and waterless solution. Dried with new mf towel then kneeded the clay and did it second time around and see much imrovement and paint seems to be streaky dry feeling . But still little more specs after baggie test.

    Im wondering if the quick meguiar spray i put on weekly is what is being stripped and the contaminents were on top of the quick spray wax and not the clearcoat

    But yeah i was gonna do iron x and tar remover first but wanted to test a spot to see how bad it is at moment. Iron x i saw it cant be on chrome or plastic etc so taping up all these areas as well.
    Unleas chrome and iron x is ok?


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    Most likely you did not do enough of passes. And don't be afraid that the clay would level down clearcoat. It is abrasive but just so much that you get so fine of scratches that they are not visible by the eye. When they come up to certain amount you will see it like fading or dullness in the paint. This is clay marring. And it takes not much to polishing them off.

    A tips that I go by and what's useally recommended. Is that when you start to aggitate with the clay you feel like a resistance from it. And the more passes you do the easier does the clay goes over the paint. This is that it's keep picking up contaminants when you have the resistance and when this resistance is gone you have a contaminant free paint. Do a baggie test and you will feel a smooth surface.

    When you do the whole car you will feel more resistance on places where contaminants builds up. And less where you it don't build up. Sometimes you hit a place where it should feels less resistance and there is more this can be from an old tree sap spot or something. Look at the contaminants you pick up with the clay and you can see if you most black color it's tar and sot and road film for an example. If you have lighter colors and at the orange color it's iron particals and industrial fallout. Also if you have a lot of contaminants on the clay when done with the section you clayed you can work in a smaller section to get more effective. And if you don't have much contaminants on it you can do larger sections. So much is going by feeling. And doing the baggie test very gently when done with the section you get a feel of when you have gotten all contaminants off by the feel you have then with almost non resistance.

    What I mentioned before if you need to be aggitate a lot with the clay. You need less of aggitations with a more aggressive clay bar. You can be needed sometimes to ad more clay lube so you always has smooth glide when you have picked up the contaminants. Otherwise it's hard to get the feeling from the resistance with to little of clay lube. As you feel now when you have clayed it's very sticky. Clay lube is for creating a very thin film for letting the clay glide over the paint. And it will put away the extra clay lube. So better with a little extra clay lube than too little of it. You can almost see if you use too little as you get dry streaks in the trace where you have passed with the clay. This can make some clay to be leaving clay on the paint. And that then comes in your polishing pad. Also a bigger risk to get clay marring if you use too little of clay lube. You will get the feel of how much is needed the more claying you do. So just keep on doing it.

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  8. #15
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    Re: Claybar plastic baggy test

    Quote Originally Posted by animescreen View Post
    But yeah i was gonna do iron x and tar remover first but wanted to test a spot to see how bad it is at moment. Iron x i saw it cant be on chrome or plastic etc so taping up all these areas as well.
    Straight from CarPro's webpage on Iron X :


    It can be used on paint, plastic, chrome, glass, and alloy wheels.

    Safe to use on Aluminum, Chrome, Alloy, or Clear coated wheels.

    Safe for use on all solid car surfaces and will not deteriorate clear coats. (Avoid using on Fabric Convertible tops)



    The one thing you want to avoid with Iron X (or similar products) is allowing it to dry on any surface.

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  10. #16
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    Re: Claybar plastic baggy test

    I read mikes book (still reading) and iron x area it said to avoid chrome . Maybe carpro recently updated formula to include chrkme etc?


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