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  1. #11
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    Wish I had a friend that would volunteer to wet sand my entire car. that's a major undertaking and you should have an awesome finish when done. Sure hope you don't need it for a week or more cause there are a couple steps in between sanding and polishing. When I bought my new Camaro I couldn't stand the orange peel and was quoted 8 grand to sand, correct, and ceramic coating. Seeing how I didn't have 8k laying around I just did a correction and ceramic and live with the orange peel. I also found out something else, when you apply PPE the orange peel disappears.

  2. #12
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    Yes. He’s got it all week. Sanded today.


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  3. #13
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    The Dr Color Chip will need some time to properly cure. I used that stuff a few years ago and ended up polishing the chip paint right out of the chip after having waited about 3 weeks. So follow the directions or the chip repair will pull right out.

  4. #14
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    Quote Originally Posted by JMak97008 View Post
    The Dr Color Chip will need some time to properly cure. I used that stuff a few years ago and ended up polishing the chip paint right out of the chip after having waited about 3 weeks. So follow the directions or the chip repair will pull right out.
    Thanks. It was recommended that we do the chip repair after all the polishing is done so that’s hew we’re proceeding. I’ll post pics of how it turns out.


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  5. #15
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    Ok, this took forever to get done just due to work conflicts but I was able to get some quick pics before heading out of town again. It’s still a driver and being the 3rd owner there were a lot of places that had been previously touched up, and not very well. I’ll just have to live with those. Maybe I’ll have it painted some day but for now I think it looks pretty darn good. The CSL and EXO were very easy to work with and talk about slick. Oh man. Anyway, no where near perfect but I’m pretty happy.
    Next project is the truck and I’ll be starting a new thread on that. Gonna need some advice for sure as I’ll be venturing into getting a polisher and doing it all. You people are such a bad influence. Lol.
    Here are a couple of quick pics. Not great but hope you get an idea.
    Thanks again for the advice.




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  7. #16
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    Outstanding work sir!!


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  8. #17
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    My first real detail and coating

    Though I talked about it in the previous posts, I have to say again... the kudo’s go to my buddy Dave who did all the polishing and polishing and polishing by machine and hand to get it as flawless as possible. What a super job he did.
    I did the Dr Color Chip and CSL with his assistance and he finished up with the EXO after I had to leave for a meeting. So basically it was all Dave. I did actually learn a bit and got some confidence to try some things on my own. This ought to be interesting. Lol


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  10. #18
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    A 15 year old vehical that has been daily driven. The results is awesome and give back in something that you can offer your buddy Dave with some help on. Looking dripping wet and an amazing depth and you can't ask for more. If you don't get as you mentioned a quality repaint job.

    Going forward with the truck and doing it yourself is great. Where you able to test your buddys polisher? And how did you like it?

    It's to decide which polisher to get. And for the beginner it's great to start with a 8mm free spinning DA polisher. The hotest thing on the market is the Griots Garage G9 polisher. It has plenty of power so it's able to stall less and this has a 9mm throw which is the safest polisher to get basicly. The little downside that I have noticed is that's not recommended to use a 3" backing plate on it. This is to get the hard to reach places that you don't get with a 5" or 6" backing plates and pads for them. But look at the threads with this polisher and maybe ask if anyone have still tested it with the 3" backing plate. The older GG6 you could use that with and made it very versitale polisher. And you maybe will be fine when you polishing your truck without the 3" backing plate. So you maybe not need to be investing in a dedicated 3" mini polisher right away.

    It's also about personal preferences on which polisher you get first and what you think will suit you the best. And also what kind of budget you are ready to go with. Next kind of polishers is the longthrow polishers with either 15mm or 21mm throw. They are free spinning DA polishers but with a longer orbit than the 8mm and 9mm ones. 15mm comes with 5" backing plate on it and the 21mm comes with the 6" backing plate. And some of the pads reach out from the backing plate to be 1" wider than the backing plate. A 21mm longthrow polisher and 6.5"-7" pads on it makes doing some little extra polishing in the same amount of time to make the total polishing time less than a G9 polisher takes. Also the longer throw makes it more effective when you polishing so less passes per sections is needed to get the same results from it. You have the Rupes MKIII 15 and 21 and Flex 15mm and they have a cordless 15mm also and the Griots Garage BOSS G15 and G21 which AGO is offering. There are slight differences between them and much is of personal preferences and budget. I dove right in a couple of years ago with a 21mm longthrow polisher. It's a little more technique on curved panels to get keeping the pad spinning vs the smaller throws. But it's not extremly hard and just trying to get the polishing pad flat on the paint and follow the leveling of the polisher on the curved panels and you are good. Mark your backing plate so you easly see that your polishing pad is spinning is a great tips to do. The downside I noticed after the first correction was I needed to be adding a 3" mini polisher right away LOL.

    If you want to have the insurance of your pad is spinning all of the time every where. You have the direct driven DA polishers. It's also has a throw of 5mm or 8mm. But the free spinning movement is gear driven instead. So the polishing pad won't stall at all on you. It's still important to use a good polishing technique or these can be hard to work with as they start to walking away from your polishing direction. Flex is just releasing there new cordless 8-125 and the corded Flex XCE10-8 125 and you can preorder them. It's the new version of the Flex VRG3401 which has been the one to get for a long time as a direct driven DA polisher. Rupes LK 900E Mille was released about a year ago and has a 5mm throw but a little higher rpm than the Flex ones that has 8mm throw from them. The benefit with the Rupes is they have a whole system with their polishers. And a little less of a work out with the walking from them. And the Flex is a little more effective with their longer throw.

    Here you have a lot of different opinions on which polisher between the direct driven DA polishers or the longthrow polishers is the best and most effective LOL. I say go with one of them that you think will suit you the best. They have different benefits and downsides. Then you have the rotary polishers but them you have a learning curve. They are great when you heavy cutting the paint and want the most effective polisher. But they need a lot of polishing time behind the polisher to get a hologram free finish. Even many pros use a rotary polisher when they do the first polishing step and then use a DA polisher to the finishing step. They are more aggressive than the DAs and you have to be carefull where the paint is natuarally thinner on a vehical. As the edges of the panels and raised body lines has and which you often use smaller masking tape to cover them up. And if you polishing on very thin paint you can burn through the clearcoat easier cause of the higher aggressiveness they have. But it has it's benefits as much quiter and also when dialed in with the right pad and polish you can have a very smooth polishing experience with it. And it's ability to cut fast on deep defects on hard to medium hardness of clearcoats.

    The next to think of is to get a good amount of pads 6-10 on a truck of each different aggressiveness of pads. So you don't wear them down too fast and not need to be cleaning them other than on the fly until it gets saturated and you reach for a fresh pad instead. Then it's great to have a compound and a medium cut polish and a finishing polish. So you can dial in the least aggressive combo on your test spots with the polish and pad that get you the best results from the polishing. If it's a cutting step and a finishing polish step or if you are able to do both in one step. It's depending on the paint and the depth of the defects you have in it.

    And some chemicals to do the chemical decon which useally are a tar remover and iron remover. Then for the mechanical decon step which is claying with clay bar or synthetic clay alternatives as mitt or pad or block or towel.

    Then the fun begins LOL

    / Tony

  11. #19
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    Thanks Tony. Excellent info. I’ve been doing some research and am leaning heavily toward the G9. I may also check some pawn shops and see if I can find a suitable and inexpensive polisher for 3” and also using with a brush for tire cleaning. I have some special issues with the truck that I’ll put in a new post when I get home and can include some pics. Thanks again for the nice thoughts and information.


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  13. #20
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    Re: My first real detail and coating

    Two more questions on this project and then I’m moving on to the truck.

    There is a soft, flexible piece under the front of the car. As careful as I try to be it still occasionally gets caught on a curb when parking. Any ideas on how best to dress it up? In the past I think it was painted with a rattle can of flat black. I really don’t want to do that and take a chance of over spray. I’m thinking paint with a foam brush or use one of the new black dye trim coatings or both. It’s no doubt going to need the occasional touch up. Not only can I not drive 55, I evidently can’t park worth a crap either. LOL Here’s a couple of pics.





    Second question. I probably should have done this before the wheels were coated but I now have and want to use Tuf Shine tire clear coat. Do you think it would be a good idea to mask off the wheels before doing the tire cleaning or is it not likely to hurt the coating?

    Thanks as always for your help.


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