New Car - Nubie detailer -what do I need?

[bcat]

Don't use that magic erasure on your new car unless you're sure you know what you're doing. Melamine is like a fine sandpaper, Everything on your new car has some type of protectant/sealant on it. Leave it new as long as you can.


Oh, and the ONR, you can use it to clean/wipe down the inside. It works well. I would get some Optimum Protectant to go with it. Optimum products work best when only used with other Optimum products - in my experience. Maybe some Optimum Power Clean when a little more umph is needed. You can use it diluted by itself or throw a little into the ONR. Three very good products.

I just noticed, you have the ONR with wax. I would get some regular ONR to go with it.

I've seen a lot of discussion on using the magic eraser in the inside glass and planned to use it when the windows were not coming clean with the glass cleaner and the mf towels. Is that the proper usage or is this another YouTube not so wonderful "tip"? Does the glass have a sealant or special coating on it from the factory?

RE the ONR how do decide what is good for plain ONR and what is good for ONR with wax?

[MarkD51]

Your situation is typical of what many face in the upper Midwest and colder climes in winter months.
Sometimes horrible road conditions, a vehicle that is bought to be used, not stored and looked at, and the mention of an unheated garage, which might mean long periods of time where you cannot do a thing as far as washes, and other detailing tasks.

Some things can be done, others perhaps can't.

Some type of safe heating system for the garage would be one plan, but can be costly if done right. Yes, I've used things like propane fired Torpedos, and while they can help raise the temps in a garage to where a wipe down, and possibly other detailing tasks can be performed, they can also be dangerous.

One, they are not vented, meaning carbon monoxide, and also exhausting oxygen supply in the garage.

If a proper heater is not an option, my next plan, and would probably be my personal choice no matter what, would be a durable Paint Coating. I don't think anyone would debate the durability and protection offered of a good Coating product versus lesser waxes and sealants. If not a coating, then has been mentioned, look towards the most durable more conventional products that can be had.

The bottom line is getting as much protection within your means and proficiency.

I see that Collinite has been mentioned as a protectant, and yes, that might be my second option and choice, and often was my personal choice for many years before the advent of Coatings.

While Collinite #845 Insulator Wax is an outstanding protectant hybrid Sealant-Wax, it is not Collinite's most durable product. That title goes to Collinite #476 Super DoubleCoat Paste Wax.

Yes, it is harder to apply and remove versus #845, but the effort and time is worth it. It must be applied as thin as possible, a dampened Foam Applicator would be the best choice, and then do the swipe test to find when it's optimal to remove.

There may be some other suggestions as to a more "conventional", yet durable paint protectant. While I have such on hand myself, I've never had the chance to use it yet on a vehicle, and some may suggest it. That product is Sonax Polymer Net Shield. (PNS it is usually called here)

It comes in an Aerosol Can, and as Mike Phillips once stated, that it was the closest thing to a Coating in his opinion.

As for Rain-X, or other windshield products, yes use them, but as I've found, when things turn icy, and with wicked ice storms, using any such products won't mean the ice is going to somehow magically just fall off the glass.

That still, time must be allowed for vehicle warm up with the defrosters set to high if you're caught with the vehicle outside during such weather events. Then out comes the ole Ice Scraper and Brush.

That happened to my Tahoe 2 winters ago in Wisconsin, the entire vehicle was one complete sheet of ice, couldn't even get in it! All Doors were totally iced shut! Even all the seams. Like somebody sprayed it down with a hose in sub-freezing temps.

As for any outside Vinyl-Plastic Trim, one product that works very well, and is very easy to use, is Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant (WETS) Also great on Rubber Trim, Weatherstripping also.

[MarkD51]

As for Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, I myself have only used it for one purpose. And that is for cleaning the Diamond Stylus on my ZYX Airy 3X Moving Coil Phono Cartridge. This Cartridge lists out at $3,000.

Magic Eraser is an ultra hard Melamine Foam, with a latticework of millions of little fingers-strands.
No, you don't want to drag such a product across a Stylus, as you'll rip the Diamond Stylus right out!

I mearly "dunk" the stylus into a small cube a few times, via the Cueing Lever on the Tonearm is all. It's hard enough to scrape-rid the Stylus of all cruds and films, yet not as hard as a Diamond to cause it any harm. Liquid cleaners are not recommend on this Cartridge, due to its hollow Boron Cantilever which any liquids can wick up into the Cantilever via capillary action and possibly harm the Cantilever Suspension Materials.

[acuRAS82]

Hello, Syracuse native here (Marcellus). I recommend looking eastward to Utica's Collinite (don’t have to go to zUtica, pick it up here) for strong winter protection. Maybe TW SNS does well on top of it? That could be a very resistant combo if they play nicely.

As far as garage in the winter, my attached garage in Pittsburgh stays warm enough most of the time (above freezing to be able to do Rinseless and waterless washes in the winter. ONR can do that for you. It’s pretty cool to drive out of your garage in winter with a clean, shiny car... doesn’t stay that way long but definitely will make people check you out during the first part of the day.

[bcat]

Thank you for your very thoughtful reply.

There are weeks at a time when it is at or below zero for a week at a time when everyone's car is a mess and even thinking about washing makes the doors an locks freeze. So my expectations about the car's appearance in winter is realistic. But we do get days in the low to mid-forties when everyone flocks to the do-it-yourself car wash to hose off the salt on and under the car with some warm soap and water. Heating my garage is not an option (and local lore has it that cars corrode faster in heated garages because the slush and ice doesn't stay frozen and in a less active state.) I'm hoping that if my car goes into winter in good enough shape that in my garage (and out of the wind) on warmish days waterless or rinse free care along with massive amounts of DYI car wash water to flush on warm winter days will get me through OK.

With the new car purchase I don't think I can afford a professionally applied coating, so I think between now and Mid October or so I'm going to have to do my research and then make an honest assessment of what level of protection I can achieve given my budget and my skill level.

My new car is all electric - no tail pipe, no oil or gas emissions of any kind and I can pre-condition the car and turn on the heater, defroster remotely with the phone app so I'm hoping that I won't have to dip into my vast collection of ice scrapers as much as before.

Your situation is typical of what many face in the upper Midwest and colder climes in winter months.
Sometimes horrible road conditions, a vehicle that is bought to be used, not stored and looked at, and the mention of an unheated garage, which might mean long periods of time where you cannot do a thing as far as washes, and other detailing tasks.

Some things can be done, others perhaps can't.

Some type of safe heating system for the garage would be one plan, but can be costly if done right. Yes, I've used things like propane fired Torpedos, and while they can help raise the temps in a garage to where a wipe down, and possibly other detailing tasks can be performed, they can also be dangerous.

One, they are not vented, meaning carbon monoxide, and also exhausting oxygen supply in the garage.

If a proper heater is not an option, my next plan, and would probably be my personal choice no matter what, would be a durable Paint Coating. I don't think anyone would debate the durability and protection offered of a good Coating product versus lesser waxes and sealants. If not a coating, then has been mentioned, look towards the most durable more conventional products that can be had.

The bottom line is getting as much protection within your means and proficiency.

I see that Collinite has been mentioned as a protectant, and yes, that might be my second option and choice, and often was my personal choice for many years before the advent of Coatings.

While Collinite #845 Insulator Wax is an outstanding protectant hybrid Sealant-Wax, it is not Collinite's most durable product. That title goes to Collinite #476 Super DoubleCoat Paste Wax.

Yes, it is harder to apply and remove versus #845, but the effort and time is worth it. It must be applied as thin as possible, a dampened Foam Applicator would be the best choice, and then do the swipe test to find when it's optimal to remove.

There may be some other suggestions as to a more "conventional", yet durable paint protectant. While I have such on hand myself, I've never had the chance to use it yet on a vehicle, and some may suggest it. That product is Sonax Polymer Net Shield. (PNS it is usually called here)

It comes in an Aerosol Can, and as Mike Phillips once stated, that it was the closest thing to a Coating in his opinion.

As for Rain-X, or other windshield products, yes use them, but as I've found, when things turn icy, and with wicked ice storms, using any such products won't mean the ice is going to somehow magically just fall off the glass.

That still, time must be allowed for vehicle warm up with the defrosters set to high if you're caught with the vehicle outside during such weather events. Then out comes the ole Ice Scraper and Brush.

That happened to my Tahoe 2 winters ago in Wisconsin, the entire vehicle was one complete sheet of ice, couldn't even get in it! All Doors were totally iced shut! Even all the seams. Like somebody sprayed it down with a hose in sub-freezing temps.

As for any outside Vinyl-Plastic Trim, one product that works very well, and is very easy to use, is Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant (WETS) Also great on Rubber Trim, Weatherstripping also.

[bcat]

So,you are suggesting that to put my package of magic erasers to good use I should tell my husband I need to buy lots things that contain diamonds--jewelry, audiophile turntables, drill tips, etc.?
OK I'll chuck the Magic erasers.

As for Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, I myself have only used it for one purpose. And that is for cleaning the Diamond Stylus on my ZYX Airy 3X Moving Coil Phono Cartridge. This Cartridge lists out at $3,000.

Magic Eraser is an ultra hard Melamine Foam, with a latticework of millions of little fingers-strands.
No, you don't want to drag such a product across a Stylus, as you'll rip the Diamond Stylus right out!

I mearly "dunk" the stylus into a small cube a few times, via the Cueing Lever on the Tonearm is all. It's hard enough to scrape-rid the Stylus of all cruds and films, yet not as hard as a Diamond to cause it any harm. Liquid cleaners are not recommend on this Cartridge, due to its hollow Boron Cantilever which any liquids can wick up into the Cantilever via capillary action and possibly harm the Cantilever Suspension Materials.

[bcat]

Greetings from the Town of Salina. They are actually tapping into the old salt beds at the end of Onondaga Lake and mixing up a slurry of brine an blue dye and who knows what to spray/spread on the roads. It works pretty good on the roads, but makes for very heavy end of the driveway after the plow has come conditions.

Good to hear about the rinseless and waterless working in your garage; I was hoping it would. Collinite is from Utica, huh. Will look into it since you and other Sr. members here have recommended it.

Hello, Syracuse native here (Marcellus). I recommend looking eastward to Utica's Collinite (don’t have to go to zUtica, pick it up here) for strong winter protection. Maybe TW SNS does well on top of it? That could be a very resistant combo if they play nicely.

As far as garage in the winter, my attached garage in Pittsburgh stays warm enough most of the time (above freezing to be able to do Rinseless and waterless washes in the winter. ONR can do that for you. It’s pretty cool to drive out of your garage in winter with a clean, shiny car... doesn’t stay that way long but definitely will make people check you out during the first part of the day.

[PaulMys]

I will second the recommendations for Collinite.

It's my Go-to LSP. 476s lasts the longest, and it really isn't hard to apply if you can read and follow directions. Apply Thin, one panel at a time (or two smaller panels), let haze a bit, and remove.

You will get at least 6 months from 476 alone.

[UncleDavy]

The Magic Eraser does have its place in detailing but I would not recommend it for a brand new car. On older cars it is very useful in removing old wax residue from black trim. It can also be used for polishing scratches under door handles. For interior glass I would definitely recommend Zap Cloth. It is a superb product. It cleans the haze on interior glass without streaks and without chemicals.

[ducksfan]

I've seen a lot of discussion on using the magic eraser in the inside glass and planned to use it when the windows were not coming clean with the glass cleaner and the mf towels. Is that the proper usage or is this another YouTube not so wonderful "tip"? Does the glass have a sealant or special coating on it from the factory?

RE the ONR how do decide what is good for plain ONR and what is good for ONR with wax?

Well, others have weighed in on the magic erasure. I've only used it on older cars to clean up oxidized rubber and stuff like heal marks on plastic door thresholds. I would be leary of using it on glass and wouldn't try it on new glass for the first try. It has it's place. But I wouldn't think a newer car is that place.

I like regular ONR. If I want to add wax, I use optimum car wax with it. You would think the end results would be the same. But, to me, ONRWW leaves a duller look.

I know ONRWW will build a film. So, I would only use ONR to wipe down an interior.