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claybar recomendations
Gonna do the works next week (minus polish) and need to get a claybar. I had mothers and meguiars before and probally will get that but wondering if there is ones I should consider as well. I know there is the more easier ones out there like the glove you wear etc.. Which i will get too but still like to do few more rounds with the regular clary etc.
Other question is, after I do claybar, is it important to buff out or quick detail water spots or streaks or it will show when covering with wax?
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Re: claybar recomendations
Personally, I would get the FINE grade clay bar from Pinnacle or BlackFire. I would not use Meguiars, or Mothers. I think those two are a little more aggressive than the Fine poly clay offered by Pinnacle & BlackFire.
Secondly, I've had better luck with less marring using fine clay vs synthetic clay. Also, yes it would be advisable to wipe down the area after you clayed in order to ensure the area is spot free & well prepared for waxing/sealing.
"I've seen a good quality car wash look better than some guys complete detail jobs."
Mike Phillips 10/21/09
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Super Member
Re: claybar recomendations
What color is your car? I ask because unless it’s white or silver and without a ton of experience I bet you’ll leave visible marring on the paint. If you’re not planning on polishing I’d skip claying.
The ones you mentioned are fine but people seem to use clay alternatives more these days. Mitts, towels, sponges. Many options here at AG. Definitely get a fine grade as your car is new.
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Super Member
Re: claybar recomendations
Both the Mothers and Meguiars are good, I've used them both.
Pinnacle Blue Poly Clay is a very good one, is probably the mildest of all clays.
Probably a good idea to at least do a wipe down with clear water after claying. I always do prior to doing any other following steps.
I'm no lab technician to say yes or no that a clay lube might impede proper bonding of a wax or sealant, but it might be possible? Maybe others might comment some.
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Re: claybar recomendations
First step is wash the car then do an inspection. (do you need to fix swirl marks, do you care?) Then bug and tar remover, wash places you hit with tar remover. Revised: forgot the IronX step, Then clay bar and use a generous amount of clay lube. I use fine clay and if you are marring you are doing it wrong. Then wash, clean and make sure car is dry, use a blow dryer to get all water. Then you decide if you need or want to do a paint correction or just apply polish with a polishing pad. when you complete the process use a IPA that removes all correction and polish residue. Then apply sealant, ceramic, or wax. But always use IPA before you apply whatever protection you decide to use. Mike Phillips has a complete section and very good educational videos on every aspect of detailing.
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Super Member
Re: claybar recomendations
Why not polish after?!
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Re: claybar recomendations
Originally Posted by
2wookies
Why not polish after?!
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Have to practice first as I haven’t done it yet will practice on my Mazda 3 after reading mikes book and YouTube’s . Then do it on my x3 after . Practice makes perfect right lol
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Super Member
Re: claybar recomendations
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Re: claybar recomendations
When I say polish I use a DA and a product like Meguiars Ultra Polish with a white pad. This is the last step in any correction. It can also be done by itself. After you polish you want to protect the paint you have just so spent so much time getting to shine. Polishing does not protect, it creates shine. you could also use a one step.
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Re: claybar recomendations
No problems to clay and wait until you are ready to polishing with the DA. Apply a spray wax/QD to protect your paint until you are polishing it. The Pinnacle Poly Clay fine grade seems to be a nice one. If you want get a dedicated clay lube I would recommend Dodo Juice Born Slippy clay lube concentrate or Carpro Immolube. The lubrication from these ones is impresive. And helps you to get less chance of clay marring. Also folding the clay bar often is another way to be holding down the marring.
I do a chemical decon with a tar remover and iron remover if needed. This helps you get the claying easier done. An iron remover at least to get the iron particals easier off than claying alone. Even new cars can have a lot of iron particals and industrial fallout in it's paint. If you where to notice no color changing when you apply the iron remover you can save it for later.
Many ways to go and this just how I do it and sees on it.
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