I'm gonna get the PC 7424XP on here

[Finick]

As Mark said, the GG6 has a lifetime warranty, but the PC is famous for being quite literally "bullet-proof". I have never read about anyone complaining that they are having chronic problems with their PC.

Are you saying I can.. shoot my PC???


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[Coatingsarecrack]

As mentioned above the amount of swirling and defects make a huge difference in pad and liquid selection. Also the level of which you would accept of correction you would accept.

My only recommendation would be to skip the 8mm throw and get a 15mm. I just did my 1st (and 2nd, 3rd) and a complete noob. I would have to say unless your actually trying to hurt your paint doing heavy correcting the boss 15,is pretty bubba proof. I have a friend who has a gg6 and tried both and it is a huge difference in performance. Also the vibrations of the machine was huge.

A longer throw will make polishing easier and won’t need to upgrade in future. It will truly make it faster and easier. And trust me, I got a little “ bubba” in me.


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[PaulMys]

Are you saying I can.. shoot my PC???


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Well ok. Not sure how you will get it into a syringe, though.........

[PaulMys]

As mentioned above the amount of swirling and defects make a huge difference in pad and liquid selection. Also the level of which you would accept of correction you would accept.

My only recommendation would be to skip the 8mm throw and get a 15mm. I just did my 1st (and 2nd, 3rd) and a complete noob. I would have to say unless your actually trying to hurt your paint doing heavy correcting the boss 15,is pretty bubba proof. I have a friend who has a gg6 and tried both and it is a huge difference in performance. Also the vibrations of the machine was huge.

A longer throw will make polishing easier and won’t need to upgrade in future. It will truly make it faster and easier. And trust me, I got a little “ bubba” in me.


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Very true, but some guys (most?) that are "newbies" balk at a $375-475 machine.

[MarkD51]

I have both the PC 7424, and the Griot's GG6.

You really can't go wrong with either one. Mark covered a lot of ground for you, but I will also add that the LC Flat pads are all you need right now to start.
They are GREAT pads, and I actually always go back to them even after using Thin Pro's, and Griot's Boss pads.

As Mark said, the GG6 has a lifetime warranty, but the PC is famous for being quite literally "bullet-proof". I have never read about anyone complaining that they are having chronic problems with their PC.

Yes, the GG6 has a little more power. This is true, but the difference won't really blow your mind like "WHOA!! This GG is WAY better!!".
In fact, the differences might not even be felt by a beginner.

Lastly, you mentioned "swirls". Any pics? What make and model car? What color? This will go a long way toward deciding your pad/product plan of attack.

Perhaps the 2 "dislikes" I mentioned about the/my PC7424XP, were perhaps a little harsh. And I only commented about the dislikes, and didn't sing any praises about it.

I'm very happy with this machine, and it isn't going anywhere anytime soon. I'll keep and use that machine and run it right into the ground, or until I'm planted! LOL If it should ever go down and something fails, I'm pretty handy, and if I can acquire the needed part(s) I can likely repair it myself.

You adapt, and become the machine, that's how I feel about the Porter Cable D/A. I'd be correct to say that no machine will be perfect to everyone.

And I totally agree the PC is a well built D/A and easy to handle. I've had zero operational problems with mine, I've had it almost 7 years, and placed some good use on it. Of course I take good care of my stuff.

It's kept in a Stanley Plastic Tool Box, with all the needed goodies, Backing Plates, Wrench, spare Backing Plate Washers, the Handle, and Paperwork, and pretty much looks just like the day I bought it. Even kept the box it came in too.

I'm sure there's certain dislikes and personal gripes that some might have/mention about Rupes and Flex Polishers, and there's no debate that there's no one machine that can do it all. The Flex 3401 cannot do what a Baby Griots 3", the I-BRID, or other small machines can do, get you in those tight nooks and crannies.

Yep, and I have oodles of the regular LC Flat Pads of various sizes, they're very good Pads, never had any issues like velcro Backing Plate attaching material separating on any of them. I went nuts on a few occasions with the great sales here, and I've still got a few large Cardboard Boxes full of them, many still never taken out of their sealed Plastic Bags. With that said, I think I'm good for a little while!

[PaulMys]

Perhaps the 2 "dislikes" I mentioned about the/my PC7424XP, were perhaps a little harsh. And I only commented about the dislikes, and didn't sing any praises about it.

I'm very happy with this machine, and it isn't going anywhere anytime soon. I'll keep and use that machine and run it right into the ground, or until I'm planted! LOL If it should ever go down and something fails, I'm pretty handy, and if I can acquire the needed part(s) I can likely repair it myself.

You adapt, and become the machine, that's how I feel about the Porter Cable D/A. I'd be correct to say that no machine will be perfect to everyone.

And I totally agree the PC is a well built D/A and easy to handle. I've had zero operational problems with mine, I've had it almost 7 years, and placed some good use on it. Of course I take good care of my stuff.
It's kept in a Stanley Plastic Tool Box, withal the needed goodies, Backing Plates, Wrench, spare Backing Plate Washers, and the Handle, and pretty much looks just like the day I bought it.

I'm sure there's certain dislikes and personal gripes that some might have/mention about Rupes and Flex Polishers, and there's no debate that there's no one machine that can do it all. The Flex 3401 cannot do what a Baby Griots 3", the I-BRID, or other small machines can do, get you in those tight nooks and crannies.

Yep, and I have oodles of the regular LC Flat Pads of various sizes, they're very good Pads, never had any issues like velcro Backing Plate attaching material separating on any of them. I went nuts on a few occasions with the great sales here, and I've still got a few large Cardboard Boxes full of them, many still never taken out of their sealed Plastic Bags. With that said, I think I'm good for a little while!

Totally agree, Mark.

I was just trying to mention something else that you didn't cover. (Which was tough, btw......) Lol

In my 40 years of using ANY power tool(s), there is always some little thing for which I thought: "Hmm..... well if this were a little different.......".

But then again, the next guy might like that feature the best.....

[Finick]

Well ok. Not sure how you will get it into a syringe, though.........

Don’t you worry about that. I will get it done


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[Finick]

As mentioned above the amount of swirling and defects make a huge difference in pad and liquid selection. Also the level of which you would accept of correction you would accept.

My only recommendation would be to skip the 8mm throw and get a 15mm. I just did my 1st (and 2nd, 3rd) and a complete noob. I would have to say unless your actually trying to hurt your paint doing heavy correcting the boss 15,is pretty bubba proof. I have a friend who has a gg6 and tried both and it is a huge difference in performance. Also the vibrations of the machine was huge.

A longer throw will make polishing easier and won’t need to upgrade in future. It will truly make it faster and easier. And trust me, I got a little “ bubba” in me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gotta say this is how I also feel about this as well. If I could go back, I’d tell myself to invest the extra 2-300 and future proof myself.

I ended up buying an mt300, and it really backed me into a weird position. I don’t enjoy using it as a 3” machine because of the rust style chassis, and I actually don’t like my PC as a 3” machine either.

A better course of action would’ve been to buy something like a boss 15, or (and I think this is the option that would’ve suited my needs beat) a flex 3401. Lately a 3401 or a mille is a really attractive tool for me, just so that I could thoroughly handle more extreme contours and edges.

Having an mt300 that would likely go unused is what really holds me back from upgrading though. In hindsight spending the money up front would’ve put me in a better position.

If budget allows, and the desire is there, I definitely think everyone should get a nicer polisher if they can.


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[animescreen]

Keep in my that with the PC Machine you'll need to buy a least one Backing Plate. Better yet 2 at first if you can afford them. I'd buy the Griots Garage 5" Ventilated Backing Plate, and a 3.5" Lake Country Yellow Urethane Backing Plate. Then accordingly use Lake Country thin flat 4" and Thinpro 5.5" Pads.

For correcting purposes, the White Pads are a good place to start, and I'd say let the majority of the Pads you buy be this color. Agressiveness of cut can then be slightly adjusted-modified by the use of different grade Polishes and Compounds. I'd say at a minimum you should have 4-5 White Pads of both 4" and 5.5" on hand. A couple more coarser Orange Pads would be good to have too on hand, at least to start with in your collection.

As for Polish Chemicals, I might recommend Wolfgang, the Total Swirl Remover and Finishing Glaze. Or opt to negate getting the Finishing Glaze, as Total Swirl Remover does finish down very nicely, and get the Wolfgang Uber Compound and TSR instead.

Many other Polish options, in fact countless. Meguiars #205 is also a very nice Finishing Polish.

I would say to take things in stride and not rush, the washing, and decon of claying, iron-x, drying, etc might take you the better part of one day, in fact maybe all day. Perhaps that should be the first day's plans and goals to achieve. You may also begin to mask-tape needed areas after your sure everything is dry. Oh, let's not forget the interior, that can take some good time too.

On the next day, you then should be able to only need to do a precautionary wipe down with a MF Towel, then begin the Polishing processes. If all goes well, you should be able to complete polishing of the entire vehicle, then lay down your favorite wax, or sealant, finish up trim dressing, tires, wheels, etc.

Have a good number of soft clean MF Towels on hand, one terry towel can be used to help clean the Pads on the fly here and there, and even an old toothbrush can come in handy for lightly brushing the faces of the Polishing pads as you go. After 2-3 panels, swap out the existing Pad for a clean fresh one, and continue.

After tallying up the costs for the machine, plates, pads, polishes, tapes, maybe some towels, and other little accessory goodies, you might get some sticker shock! I know, it happens. You'll maybe say, wow, I have to spend hundreds of dollars just to get this one job done! But keep in mind you'll have these tools on hand for the future and for other vehicles as well.

Some other good things to have on hand and will aid maintaining the polishing pads, is to have a good Pad Cleaner on hand.

Yes, the Mike Phillips Book will be the Bible, very good to have on hand. There's countless videos on the web showing polishing techniques used with the Porter Cable Machine, as well with other machines. Mike Phillip's Vids are usually the very best, concise, correct, and orthodox methods.

ONE BACKING PLATE (BETTER YET 2)? I’m not sure what backing plate does (I’m a newbie lol) I guess the porter cable I got came with one backing plate but heard it’s like useless?
Are you referring to this? Griots Garage 5 Inch Vented Orbital Backing Plate This will work with the Porter cable?
Can’t seem to find the link for the lake country 3.5 backing plate. (not sure what the backing plate does or why size different.. I eventually will lol)
Lake Country thin flat 4" and Thinpro 5.5" Pads are for polish you recommended but what about pads for wax? The pad that comes with porter cable can I use this to wax my whole car in one session?
Wash, decon of claying (not sure what decon is lol but do not claybar), iron x and drying I’ll do in one day.
Next day I will do masktape then do polish and then wax.
How many pads should be good for a compact suv x3. How do you wash them afterwards so I can reuse 4-5 month down the line without polish drying and scratching car? Guess that is where pad cleaner comes to play.
But you are right I spent a lot so far but eventually I’ll find products that work and then get like bulk pricing.

[animescreen]

Oh, Others here might suggest bypassing the PC7424XP for the Griots Garage GG6 instead.

Pros and cons of both I'd say. The GG might be a tad more powerful, and also possesses a lifetime warrantee. The PC I believe only comes with one year. Should the GG6 break 5 years from now, simply call, send it back, and even if that particular machine is now no longer made, GG will send you the latest-greatest version.

I have the PC BTW. And own a GG Boss-15, and GG-3" as well.

I've been happy with my PC, but might mention two dislikes. One, it comes with an almost useless Backing Plate and permanently attached 6.5" Pad. About all that can be done with it, is attach MF Bonnets, and use to apply-remove waxes is about all.

Another, is there are detents in between all speeds on the PC, except in between speed 5 and 6. That was dumb I felt, poor that there wasn't a speed 5-1/2 on the rotary speed dial. Sometimes the PC can seem to struggle on speed 5 with 5.5" Pads or larger, and it becomes critical to use good form, proper angle and pressure to the panel you are polishing.

And speed 6, the highest setting seems a little bit too much IMO.

You'll note mentioned with either machine, since either free wheeling machine can be stalled (in rotation only) when polishing, that it's smart to mark the backing plates so one can keep an eye on Pad rotation as they polish.

While polishing, and when you note pad rotation slowing or ceasing, it's at those times that correction abilities of either machine diminish.

The reasons why stalling occurs is not only caused by the end user, and how they use the machine, but automobiles are not a perfect "flat" surface in many areas, and dips, curves, can cause difficulties when polishing.

It becomes important to maintain that the polishing pad is parallel to the surface at any given point, and attention paid to downward pressure, speed of passes, and of the machine itself.

That if for say in a certain area your pad rotation is slowing due to body curves or dips, then one must also learn to compensate by some other means as well by possibly slowing the rate of section passes they make and/or adjust downward pressure slightly, so the pads and products will effectively work and do their intended jobs in those areas.

Think of a Vinyl Record going round and round on a Record Player. That's what you wish to maintain for effective paint correction.

I got the porter cable after getting the mikes dvd and book which he uses the pc so I can easily use it I guess (probably not the best answer but still heard good stuff about this machine).
So the plates you recommended earlier works for the pc ?

I have the PC BTW. And own a GG Boss-15, and GG-3" as well.

I've been happy with my PC, but might mention two dislikes. One, it comes with an almost useless Backing Plate and permanently attached 6.5" Pad. About all that can be done with it, is attach MF Bonnets, and use to apply-remove waxes is about all.

I heard about the marking the backing plate so you know its moving.. good point

So my x3 has lot of curves etc and dips. So these little tip on the hood for example, I need to put slightly more pressure and go slow (while going parallel each time) to cover these crevices etc right?