New to machine polishing, some questions....

[bigterp]

Thanks for all the replies, suggestions, tips, etc., etc. Much appreciated. I think I'm sold on the GG6. Was originally settled on the HF, but after hearing the bad reviews on the new model and the advice here, I'd be much better served with the GG6 for sure. Also settling in the LC flat pads, unless you guys recommend something else? I see someone mentioned the LC hybrid force pads. I'm not familiar with all the different pad types so I'm open to suggestions. Took a few quick pictures this evening of what I'm working with. Opinions welcomed!! Didn't have the best lighting, and no QD to wipe up a bit (it's been raining here all day). But you should be able to get a good idea of what I got going on. Truck was washed, clay barred and waxed approximately 3 weeks ago, and then washed 3 days ago to give you a sense of where it's currently at. The Flex was washed 3 days ago.

Here are a couple areas with surface scratches and marring.





And here is a shot of the paint condition in general .Pretty good IMO.




Here is my wife's Flex.

[PaulMys]

If it were me, I would save up if need be and get a flex 3401, 4 7/8 backing plate (I think that's the size), and LC 5.5 hybrid force pads. You'll never go back. Literally cuts your time in half. Skip all the others, because you're going to want to upgrade

I think this may be correct for a vehicle with paint that needs real attention.

I am not even going to mention actual pro's, because a Flex to them is a no-brainer.

But, in my opinion..... Using a beast like the Flex on a hobbyist's paint year after year might "cut your time in half", but may also be overkill and remove more clear coat than you'd like, or even more than the job actually requires.

[VISITOR]

Griot's Garage 6 Inch Random Orbital Polisher
_________________________________________________

Griot's Garage 5 Inch Vented Orbital Backing Plate

Griot's Garage 3 inch HD Backing Plate
_________________________________________________

Griot's Garage 5.5 Inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads

Griot's Garage 3 inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads

OR

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 5.5 Inch

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 3.5 Inch
_________________________________________________

[mckobe]

I think this may be correct for a vehicle with paint that needs real attention.

I am not even going to mention actual pro's, because a Flex to them is a no-brainer.

But, in my opinion..... Using a beast like the Flex on a hobbyist's paint year after year might "cut your time in half", but may also be overkill and remove more clear coat than you'd like, or even more than the job actually requires.

But then you start doing your neighbors cars, your friends cars. Compliment after compliment. Then you start doing it professionally

[MarkD51]

Griot's Garage 6 Inch Random Orbital Polisher
_________________________________________________

Griot's Garage 5 Inch Vented Orbital Backing Plate

Griot's Garage 3 inch HD Backing Plate
_________________________________________________

Griot's Garage 5.5 Inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads

Griot's Garage 3 inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads

OR

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 5.5 Inch

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 3.5 Inch
_________________________________________________

Thank you for providing these clickable links for the original poster!

I agree, that all should have a PC/GG type polisher on hand. And that such should be the first tool to look toward because of the versatility they possess.

I've never used a Flex, and I have zero doubt this is the pinnacle of D/A Tools, but....

The Flex cannot be adapted and modified to use the much smaller backing plates and pads that the PC/GG can use.
And like others have touched upon, the free rotating D/A machines are more forgiving for a beginning, or hobbyist user.

The smaller plates and pads will then have the ability of being more effective and easier to use in smaller, confined areas, tight curves, bumpers, A and B Pillars.

The use of LC's Thinpro Pads will enhance the effectiveness of the free rotating D/A's such as the PC and GG tools versus the thicker LC Flat Pads.

[MarkD51]

The choice of then doing other's vehicles is of course a personal choice. But for the initial intended purposes, one can get by fine with the GG6, or PC Machines.

For professionals, yes, time is money for one and as well speed means a bit less wear and tear on the body, your arms, shoulders, hands. and overall taxation of the body.

Without the proper selection of the right choices of Pads, and Polishes/Compounds, and then finally the proper techniques, then any machine made becomes ineffective in use.

As for polishes, and over the counter purchases, Megs is always a good choice. I've used Meg's #205 Ultra Finishing Polish on a number of occasions, extremely good polish, finishes down so nicely. With this one, it's often easy to walk into any big box auto parts stores, paint supply shops, and even some wally worlds sell #205.

Paired with the LC White Foam Pads, you are going to see some serious shine created.

Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, and Wolfgang Uber Compound, another 2 killer products, these two are always in my arsenal.

[MarkD51]

Going back and re-reading your original post better, I'll comment some more.

The Orange Flat Pads are fairly aggressive. I personally might first buy 6 White, 4 Orange and 2 Black Pads.
Keep in mind, that Meguiars UC can be paired with the White Pads for more aggressive paint correction if needed.

Note that I say "if needed".

Always try and start with the least aggressive methods and products that will get the job done. I'd say better to do an 80% correction, rather than hammering the paint too hard, and depleting the thin valuable clear coat with being too aggressive.

UC is what it is, a liquid compound, and in many instances of normal paint correction to remove swirls and amp shine, a compound is not needed nor suggested generally.

Start with the polish first, and with the White Pads. Do the proverbial test spot and tape off a section. Commonly the hood receives the most beating, and is a good easy place to start. If you like the results with your processes, then simply repeat these processes on the rest of the vehicle.

Where you have noticed deeper sleeks-scratches, then perhaps switch to and try the Orange Pads with Polish next, or other combinations, Compound with White Pads Again, the least aggressive methods, before stepping up going more aggressive, and when going more aggressive, do such incrementally.

Yes, Collinte #845 is a tremendous hallmark product. It is very well liked here my many. I've used #845 and #476 Paste for literal decades on many of my own vehicles, and many others rides. Last vehicle I did with #845 was my friend's son's 2013 Summit White ZL-1 Camaro. It's pretty much a Sunday show car only, not driven daily.

A month after I did it, I recall him singing praises that he had tons of bugs on the front, and when he went to wash the car, the bugs fell off the front just with the spray hose, before he even began to wash.

I like applying this one by hand, with a dampened foam applicator. Apply as thin as possible. Even on your pickup truck you should be using around an ounce of product at most.

Reason I like applying by hand, is removal and clean up is easier, that I'm not applying tons of this product into cracks, crevices, seams, and trim where it then becomes harder to totally remove.

Keep us posted!

[bigterp]

The use of LC's Thinpro Pads will enhance the effectiveness of the free rotating D/A's such as the PC and GG tools versus the thicker LC Flat Pads.

Do you recommend the Thinpro pads over the regular LC flat pads? I was thinking the flat pads would be a bit more forgiving. They are also more economical.

Paired with the LC White Foam Pads, you are going to see some serious shine created.

For LC pads in general, do you recommend the white pad for the final polishing step? For the flat pads there is also green, blue and black that are labeled as finishing pads. Really not sure which color I should get for that step. Aggression from most to least it goes white, green, blue then black. But they say "Compounding with a yellow or orange pad may leave a light haze. You will need the white or black pad to refine the paint to its original shine and texture. The blue pad will then give you a uniform wax application." Confusing me a bit. After looking at the Thinpro pads, I think I'll at least pick up one of those in red just for wax application.

[bigterp]

Going back and re-reading your original post better, I'll comment some more.

The Orange Flat Pads are fairly aggressive. I personally might first buy 6 White, 4 Orange and 2 Black Pads.
Keep in mind, that Meguiars UC can be paired with the White Pads for more aggressive paint correction if needed.

Note that I say "if needed".

Always try and start with the least aggressive methods and products that will get the job done. I'd say better to do an 80% correction, rather than hammering the paint too hard, and depleting the thin valuable clear coat with being too aggressive.

UC is what it is, a liquid compound, and in many instances of normal paint correction to remove swirls and amp shine, a compound is not needed nor suggested generally.

Start with the polish first, and with the White Pads. Do the proverbial test spot and tape off a section. Commonly the hood receives the most beating, and is a good easy place to start. If you like the results with your processes, then simply repeat these processes on the rest of the vehicle.

Where you have noticed deeper sleeks-scratches, then perhaps switch to and try the Orange Pads with Polish next, or other combinations, Compound with White Pads Again, the least aggressive methods, before stepping up going more aggressive, and when going more aggressive, do such incrementally.

Yes, Collinte #845 is a tremendous hallmark product. It is very well liked here my many. I've used #845 and #476 Paste for literal decades on many of my own vehicles, and many others rides. Last vehicle I did with #845 was my friend's son's 2013 Summit White ZL-1 Camaro. It's pretty much a Sunday show car only, not driven daily.

A month after I did it, I recall him singing praises that he had tons of bugs on the front, and when he went to wash the car, the bugs fell off the front just with the spray hose, before he even began to wash.

I like applying this one by hand, with a dampened foam applicator. Apply as thin as possible. Even on your pickup truck you should be using around an ounce of product at most.

Reason I like applying by hand, is removal and clean up is easier, that I'm not applying tons of this product into cracks, crevices, seams, and trim where it then becomes harder to totally remove.

Keep us posted!

I responded to your previous post before I saw this one. Seems to have gotten lost though?

Excellent advice!! Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!!

Did you see my pictures back in post #21? After seeing those, do you still recommend what you said above?

[bigterp]

The use of LC's Thinpro Pads will enhance the effectiveness of the free rotating D/A's such as the PC and GG tools versus the thicker LC Flat Pads.

Do you recommend the Thinpro pads over the regular LC flat pads? I was thinking the flat pads would be a bit more forgiving. They are also more economical.

Paired with the LC White Foam Pads, you are going to see some serious shine created.

For LC pads in general, do you recommend the white pad for the final polishing step? For the flat pads there is also green, blue and black that are labeled as finishing pads. Really not sure which color I should get for that step. Aggression from most to least it goes white, green, blue then black. But they say "Compounding with a yellow or orange pad may leave a light haze. You will need the white or black pad to refine the paint to its original shine and texture. The blue pad will then give you a uniform wax application." Confusing me a bit. After looking at the Thinpro pads, I think I'll at least pick up one of those in red just for wax application.