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  1. #21
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    Re: "Acid baths" for ceramic coatings that have been on for 6 months plus???

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    How long did you let the Cosmic Spritz sit before wipe it off?

    I'm not sure about the acid bath would fix this. If it's dried on Cosmic Spritz. Or is it that you think it was not clean enough before application of the Cosmic Spritz?
    Idk it was perfect before I applied the cosmic spritz. I wiped it off instantly. When I noticed it happening I started applying it in 1ft x 1ft sections and wiping off immediately.

    That seemed to take it off but it took a panel before I noticed it. I think it's only on the 1 panel now but I'm afraid to use the cosmic spritz again.

    As far as I know I'm comfortable saying I did everything right cosmic v2 application wise.

  2. #22
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    Re: "Acid baths" for ceramic coatings that have been on for 6 months plus???

    Do you spritz on the paint?

    It can be a little too much of product that way sometimes. Spritz in the mf towel and spread it out and then remove it can be easier to buff it off. And this way you don't need to be spritzing the mf towel every time you spread it out as you get it more saturated as you go. On an already protected paint 1-2 sprays per panel is what only is needed. As this is very concentrated stuff it's goes a long way.

    Humidity plays a big part with SiO2 heavy products. With a high humidity environment you apply it in can be a trouble with the application. As they can dry faster initially and then take a little longer to cure fully. So even a dew can effect the applications. Or if you have washed in the garage and even outside in hot temperature you have the water that evaporates around the car. This is extreme cases though and not so common.

    And to get it too even more extreme. If your paint is very flat and compounded and polished to get there and even wet sanded for that flat reflective paint we like. Then when you use a coating it's flatten the surface even more. And more so if more layers is done. I think that these kind of paints can not accept more protection on it but very little. And the product leftover has to go somewhere. That's back into the wipe off mf towel. Remember that this is on a very small level and not visible to the eyes. I don't know but just think this as experienced when used these kind of stout protection products very often. And the more streaking galour I got after every application. Then the finish got kind of hazy look. Don't know if it's the same for you. There are so many variables it can be.

    How old is your bottle of Cosmic Spritz?

  3. #23
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    Re: "Acid baths" for ceramic coatings that have been on for 6 months plus???

    Quote Originally Posted by fightnews View Post
    Iron removers are essential. I could see the orange rust spots on my black hood before I decontaminated it. I also saw them disappear. Have u never used an iron remover on your car?
    Yes, I use IronX. It's ph 6-7, so it doesn't seem too bad. Curious to know, what coating you trying to clean, and do you remember how long its been on the paint?
    "I've seen a good quality car wash look better than some guys complete detail jobs."
    Mike Phillips 10/21/09

  4. #24
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    Re: "Acid baths" for ceramic coatings that have been on for 6 months plus???

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    Do you spritz on the paint?

    It can be a little too much of product that way sometimes. Spritz in the mf towel and spread it out and then remove it can be easier to buff it off. And this way you don't need to be spritzing the mf towel every time you spread it out as you get it more saturated as you go. On an already protected paint 1-2 sprays per panel is what only is needed. As this is very concentrated stuff it's goes a long way.

    Humidity plays a big part with SiO2 heavy products. With a high humidity environment you apply it in can be a trouble with the application. As they can dry faster initially and then take a little longer to cure fully. So even a dew can effect the applications. Or if you have washed in the garage and even outside in hot temperature you have the water that evaporates around the car. This is extreme cases though and not so common.

    And to get it too even more extreme. If your paint is very flat and compounded and polished to get there and even wet sanded for that flat reflective paint we like. Then when you use a coating it's flatten the surface even more. And more so if more layers is done. I think that these kind of paints can not accept more protection on it but very little. And the product leftover has to go somewhere. That's back into the wipe off mf towel. Remember that this is on a very small level and not visible to the eyes. I don't know but just think this as experienced when used these kind of stout protection products very often. And the more streaking galour I got after every application. Then the finish got kind of hazy look. Don't know if it's the same for you. There are so many variables it can be.

    How old is your bottle of Cosmic Spritz?
    I spray the towel to apply and the bottle of spritz was brand new.

    Now glasscoat is supposed to be chemical resistant so could I use an app like Wolfgang apc diluted to paint safe level?

    Can these type of products be used on ceramic coatings in general? Are people doing this for heavier degreasing?

  5. #25
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    Re: "Acid baths" for ceramic coatings that have been on for 6 months plus???

    Quote Originally Posted by expdetailing View Post
    Yes, I use IronX. It's ph 6-7, so it doesn't seem too bad. Curious to know, what coating you trying to clean, and do you remember how long its been on the paint?
    Its brand new its cosmic v2 glasscoat

  6. #26
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    Re: "Acid baths" for ceramic coatings that have been on for 6 months plus???

    Quote Originally Posted by fightnews View Post
    I spray the towel to apply and the bottle of spritz was brand new.

    Now glasscoat is supposed to be chemical resistant so could I use an app like Wolfgang apc diluted to paint safe level?

    Can these type of products be used on ceramic coatings in general? Are people doing this for heavier degreasing?
    I don't know the exactly claim from the ph levels it holds up to. Most of the prewashes I use is on the alkaline side between ph 9-12 depending on the dilution of some. Generally speaking the coatings is very chemical resistant if you just spray on and let it dwell and rinse off. With aggitations and used often when you get over the ph 12 level they can shorten the longevity from the coating. And I think that you don't really take it off when the water behavior degrades to almost looking flat. But you have weared and change the hydrophobic top layer of the coating. This is just what I think and it's hard to prove it to LOL.

    That's why I use a little stronger than the ph neutral cleaners. As I don't need to be aggitate them and often if it's not works on the first application and PW clean rinsing it off. The second time it's useally does work if I have the right chemical cleaner for the dirt I would take off. Remember that the ph levels is as a benchmark exept when it comes to solvents. And some kind of those solvents is very harsh on coatings and even the clearcoat.

    Then it's not always needed to the dirt being rinsed off with the PW. But the chemicals has loosened the bond of the dirt so it gets off easier when you do the contact wash. You can test it very gently with a wet mf towel and see if it comes off with a wipe or two. This is often the way with the road film. Even if it's don't rinse clean when I wash 2-3 wipes with a mf wash mitt or mf wash pad and it's clean.

    So with an APC I don't know what's in it or which ph level it has. I first start with a weak APC solution and see where it gets me. And if needed I ad up to the recommended normal strength dilution. To see if it's doing it's job or not. If it don't gets there with 2 applications and a normal strength dilution. Then it's not effective on the kind of dirt I try to remove or at least softens to be easy to wash off. Often the APC can be hard to rinse off clean as it's often made for being aggitated with so it foams up a little. And being to wipe it off with a damp mf towel. So much depending on how easy it is to rinse off clean too and if it is prone to leave the surfactans behind. This I notice when I wash with Reset and the water behavior comes back after being degraded by the APC. As you see the APC can be a little tricky if it's works great or not on the paint and the kind of dirt you have there. Also it can be a big difference if you dilute it strong or weak. So if I'm not going to be reapplying or top the LSP. I go with weak to normal strength dilution of the APC. And since I have no experience with just McKees 37 APC. I can not say if it's safe or not. But an email to them and ask if you can use it on their coating without any problems and with what dilution. It would be safe on the Cosmic v2 coating too I think.

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