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  1. #11
    Senior Member BadgerRivFan's Avatar
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    Quote Originally Posted by BadRims View Post
    I have tons of unused new polishing pads. Are there other negatives to polishing with contamination (I can see and feel it)? Perhaps throw the pads away after one panel/section?

    With regards to why I would polish first, i would only do it in the interest of time as the claying is taking a long time.

    big thank you for everyone’s response. I’ve been so distraught over this I couldn’t sleep last night.
    First of all, take a deep breath and don’t worry so much about this... it’s not the end of the world. Nothing to lose sleep over. It’s going to be just fine.

    My advice would be not to compound your initial “mistake” by continuing to do things improperly. It may be more time efficient to pound a nail with a sledge hammer, but does that mean you should do it?

    The point is using the right tool for the job it is intended to do is the best way to go.

    Foam, wool, and microfiber polishing pads are not contaminate removal tools. If you want to be more efficient by using your machine polisher, consider something like the Nanoskin Autoscrub system products for mechanically decontaminating paint:

    Nanoskin Car Care Products, nanoskin autoscrub system

    I have not personally used them, but it could be an option.

    If it takes you some time to correct your mistake then that’s the price you will have to pay for rushing the process (IMHO CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove).
    ​Al Schmidt
    "Adventure, is a car called Riviera..."

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  3. #12
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    What clay do you use?
    Mother's is the only one I've tried. I'll order the Meguiars. Thank you for the tip.

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  5. #13
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    Quote Originally Posted by BadgerRivFan View Post
    First of all, take a deep breath and don’t worry so much about this... it’s not the end of the world. Nothing to lose sleep over. It’s going to be just fine.

    My advice would be not to compound your initial “mistake” by continuing to do things improperly. It may be more time efficient to pound a nail with a sledge hammer, but does that mean you should do it?

    The point is using the right tool for the job it is intended to do is the best way to go.

    Foam, wool, and microfiber polishing pads are not contaminate removal tools. If you want to be more efficient by using your machine polisher, consider something like the Nanoskin Autoscrub system products for mechanically decontaminating paint:

    Nanoskin Car Care Products, nanoskin autoscrub system

    I have not personally used them, but it could be an option.

    If it takes you some time to correct your mistake then that’s the price you will have to pay for rushing the process (IMHO CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove).
    You're right on all counts. I'll purchase part of the nanoskin system (looks like they have a few good products). What makes all of this really bad is I paid someone a lot of money to do this.... It would be easier to stomach if I had done it (in fact, I have done it before).

  6. #14
    Senior Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    I wonder how defensive the coating is in protecting any contaminants underneath. What I mean by that is, will claying now (and/or iron x'ing) without removing the coating be less than fully effective because the coating is "blocking" access to all the contaminants underneath?

    That was an interesting video Tony shared above. Based on how robust coatings are to remove, I might be inclined to use a strong solvent to remove as much of the coating first and then go with Option A. That is, remove the coating and then start from scratch with wash, iron x, clay, polish, prep paint and recoat.

    I do understand some are suggesting an aggressive claying will remove both the coating AND underlying contaminants. I'm just coming from the "remove coating" first angle, then start over with the normal process of steps.

    Just my thoughts and great discussion here.

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  8. #15
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul A. View Post
    I wonder how defensive the coating is in protecting any contaminants underneath. What I mean by that is, will claying now (and/or iron x'ing) without removing the coating be less than fully effective because the coating is "blocking" access to all the contaminants underneath?

    That was an interesting video Tony shared above. Based on how robust coatings are to remove, I might be inclined to use a strong solvent to remove as much of the coating first and then go with Option A. That is, remove the coating and then start from scratch with wash, iron x, clay, polish, prep paint and recoat.

    I do understand some are suggesting an aggressive claying will remove both the coating AND underlying contaminants. I'm just coming from the "remove coating" first angle, then start over with the normal process of steps.

    Just my thoughts and great discussion here.
    Your reasoning here is exactly why I recommended the Wax & Grease Remover first. I would think IronX wouldn't dwell very long on a coated surface.
    Wax & Grease Remover is also cheaper than a quality synthetic clay substitute.
    "I've seen a good quality car wash look better than some guys complete detail jobs."
    Mike Phillips 10/21/09

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  10. #16
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    A

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  12. #17
    Senior Member LSNAutoDetailing's Avatar
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    So when my dog has to go the veterinarian, and they give me options, I always ask, "Doc, what would you do if this were YOUR dog?" Then I get my answer.

    IMO, if this was MY CAR... I would carve out two days to "do the needful." Doing the needful is basically following the tried and true steps, as I've learned from Mike Philips, Renny Doyle and Jason Rose.


    First, how do you know that the car wasn't prepared properly? One drive home from the shop and any car has the potential to fail a baggy test to some degree. With that said, you're asking if you should clay or not clay... Those were the two options given, yet, you said you clayed and felt it was getting off decontamination... So I guess you're claying..

    Ok, if it were my car I would do it properly myself to give it a full fresh new beginning:

    - Engine / Engine bay
    - Wheels / Tires / Wheel Wells
    - Iron-X (done in the shade, let it dwell per instructions) --> Go right to foam bath
    - Foam Bath 2 bm / 2 wash mitts and agitate the soap / iron-x mix....
    - Rinse
    - Inspect the paint / do
    the baggy test...
    - Clay (you can use clay or a nano-skin mitt). For my cars, I use Pinnacle Fine Poly Clay and Megs D114 as my clay lubricant. D114 is no longer available but it's replacement is McKee's 37 N914. The reason for this is it will leave nothing behind... no wax no fillers.
    - After clay, inspect the paint. If you want to use a coating you have to used a dedicated polish. At present, I believe the only AIO for coatings is CarPro Essence.
    - Paint Correction ---> do a test spot... See what least aggressive pad and product will yield the highest results. Use lots of pads. (typically 6 for an entire vehicle).
    - Inspect the paint... Make sure you eliminated any marring or light scratches... Don't get OCD on a few random scratches that didn't come out during the polishing session. You'll get into trouble real fast if you start chasing those down.
    - Wipe down - Either an IPA or Car Pro Erasure: I like Erasure because it's all pre mixed and it's bubba proof and it has lubricity... It smells nice too. It's pricy but I know what results I'll get and I know I wont be putting scratches back in the car.
    - Apply the coating... Make sure you do a test spot... time / temp / humidity all play a factor. USE LOTS of Car Pro MF/Sued towels. Always follow up with a second towel. Change them out often. Use a good light, like Scangrip, or even better have a second person with a Scangrip follow behind you. If you don't have a second person, work in small sections... but be DARN sure you get every bit of it off because once it dries... you're fighting high spots.
    - Final inspection
    - Finish the detailing ---> coating plastics, trim, tail lights, wheels... dress wheels, etc...

    That's what I would do....

    Paul_G www.lsnautodetail.com IDA CD-SV

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  14. #18
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul A. View Post
    I wonder how defensive the coating is in protecting any contaminants underneath. What I mean by that is, will claying now (and/or iron x'ing) without removing the coating be less than fully effective because the coating is "blocking" access to all the contaminants underneath?

    That was an interesting video Tony shared above. Based on how robust coatings are to remove, I might be inclined to use a strong solvent to remove as much of the coating first and then go with Option A. That is, remove the coating and then start from scratch with wash, iron x, clay, polish, prep paint and recoat.

    I do understand some are suggesting an aggressive claying will remove both the coating AND underlying contaminants. I'm just coming from the "remove coating" first angle, then start over with the normal process of steps.

    Just my thoughts and great discussion here.
    Just to clarify what I meened. There seems to be contaminants that is taken off by claying. And this is for these contaminants and not that you would remove the coating. It's for the followed step to remove the coating. So just take off the contaminants that has not been covered by the coating in this case.

    Then it's a judgement call to make if you would strip the coating off chemically or physical. After the claying I would do the baggie test to feel if the paint is smooth or if you still feel some bumps on it. If it's not smooth from the feel from the baggie test I would try to knock the coating down with several applications of a wax and grease remover. This is so if the coating is holding the contaminants so strong that the clay don't be able to pull it off. Then there can be contaminants big enough to do damage when you polishing the coating off. If you get a smooth feeling from the baggie test. I would think that the contaminants that is trapped under the coating is so small that it would be no problem to polishing them off. And to be on the safe side. A couple of wipe downs with the wax and grease remover followed by the polishing would be a great choice to do.

    This is also much of a guessing game as it's impossible to know what to do without getting to look at it. If you have a inspection light and can capture the dirt in the coating with pictures. But this is more about the feel of the paint to get a knowledge about how big the contaminants are. Or if the imbedded dirt and contaminants is so small that it would be safely polished off.

    Sorry to hear about what you experienced when you trusted someone to do a great work on your car. But I think that you will be able to fix this. It's just a PIA to be doing so and there are some different ways of doing it.

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  16. #19
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    Re: CQuartz UK applied with no prep work - how to best remove

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    Just to clarify what I meened. There seems to be contaminants that is taken off by claying. And this is for these contaminants and not that you would remove the coating. It's for the followed step to remove the coating. So just take off the contaminants that has not been covered by the coating in this case.

    Then it's a judgement call to make if you would strip the coating off chemically or physical. After the claying I would do the baggie test to feel if the paint is smooth or if you still feel some bumps on it. If it's not smooth from the feel from the baggie test I would try to knock the coating down with several applications of a wax and grease remover. This is so if the coating is holding the contaminants so strong that the clay don't be able to pull it off. Then there can be contaminants big enough to do damage when you polishing the coating off. If you get a smooth feeling from the baggie test. I would think that the contaminants that is trapped under the coating is so small that it would be no problem to polishing them off. And to be on the safe side. A couple of wipe downs with the wax and grease remover followed by the polishing would be a great choice to do.

    This is also much of a guessing game as it's impossible to know what to do without getting to look at it. If you have a inspection light and can capture the dirt in the coating with pictures. But this is more about the feel of the paint to get a knowledge about how big the contaminants are. Or if the imbedded dirt and contaminants is so small that it would be safely polished off.

    Sorry to hear about what you experienced when you trusted someone to do a great work on your car. But I think that you will be able to fix this. It's just a PIA to be doing so and there are some different ways of doing it.
    This is very helpful - THANK YOU. All of the suggestions on this thread are going to help as I dive into it this weekend. I tried one round of the discontinued Griots Garage Paint Prep as I had it on hand but nothing much came of it (as expected).

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