Ceramic Coating water spots

[brunoranger]

You didn't mention if you have a polisher or not? I hate to assume but assuming you do have some brand of free spinning random orbital polisher - I would recommend getting a quart of BLACKFIRE One Step. At this time it only comes in quarts as it's targeted at Pro Detailers. Use this with a foam "polishing" pad, not foam cutting, not foam "finishing" but right in the middle, foam "polishing" pad.

Use it like a compound or polish - that is, work small sections at a time, about 16" by 16", (that's the size of the average microfiber towel. Then make 8 section passes. If you don't know what a section pass is, let me know I have an article on that, I coined the term for our industry.

You can apply to the entire car and then wipe off.

Your car will look great and chances are you will have removed the majority of all the water spots or imprint rings.

Moving forward, anytime you see defects that you want to remove just repeat to the area of defects. If you want the car to look amazing for Date Night then hit the upper half of the car, hood, trunk and tops of fenders. This is just a quickie. The product is so easy to use and doesn't micro-mar like some one-step AIOs.


KISS - Keep it Simple Simon

Hey Mike....just ordered it. I do have a DA Torqx. I have a Buff and Shine Blue Foam Polishing Pad...just to confirm, do the whole car and then wipe off? Or wipe off each section afterward?

Thanks!

[fly07sti]

Hey Mike....just ordered it. I do have a DA Torqx. I have a Buff and Shine Blue Foam Polishing Pad...just to confirm, do the whole car and then wipe off? Or wipe off each section afterward?

Thanks!

Not to rain on your parade, it’s going to takes more than one pad. Hopefully you have more. If you’re using an AIO in doors I’d suggest doing the entire vehicle (after your test spot to see how many passes gives you your desired results). If you’re going to be outdoors, I’d suggest wiping off as you go.

[Coatingsarecrack]

Not to rain on your parade,

Lol... water spots..... rain on your parade.... I’m picking up what your puttin down.



Also he’s right. Definetly need more than one pad to do right.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[brunoranger]

You didn't mention if you have a polisher or not? I hate to assume but assuming you do have some brand of free spinning random orbital polisher - I would recommend getting a quart of BLACKFIRE One Step. At this time it only comes in quarts as it's targeted at Pro Detailers. Use this with a foam "polishing" pad, not foam cutting, not foam "finishing" but right in the middle, foam "polishing" pad.

Use it like a compound or polish - that is, work small sections at a time, about 16" by 16", (that's the size of the average microfiber towel. Then make 8 section passes. If you don't know what a section pass is, let me know I have an article on that, I coined the term for our industry.

You can apply to the entire car and then wipe off.

Your car will look great and chances are you will have removed the majority of all the water spots or imprint rings.

Moving forward, anytime you see defects that you want to remove just repeat to the area of defects. If you want the car to look amazing for Date Night then hit the upper half of the car, hood, trunk and tops of fenders. This is just a quickie. The product is so easy to use and doesn't micro-mar like some one-step AIOs.


KISS - Keep it Simple Simon

hey mike a couple more questions....

when you say 8 section passes do you mean even in direct sunlight or in the shade? How many if I am in the sunlight to avoid dry buffing?

also, what should my hand speed be with this product? Should I move it faster than normal or the 1 inch per second method?

[mpulsiv]

Water beading is bad for paint - it causes water spots and worse water spot etchings or imprint rings. This causes you to have to abrade the paint.

I'm speechless now Doesn't traditional wax exhibit poor water beading property compared to sealants, ceramic coating and SiO2 washes? However, Wolfgang says otherwise.
Pardon my ignorance but is there a solution to the problem for wet climates and hard water to keep the factory paint in mint condition?

[Mike Phillips]

hey mike a couple more questions....

when you say 8 section passes do you mean even in direct sunlight or in the shade? How many if I am in the sunlight to avoid dry buffing?

also, what should my hand speed be with this product? Should I move it faster than normal or the 1 inch per second method?

Start early, while it's cool and knock out all the horizontal panels first.

Section passes? You have to work the abrasives against the paint for some measure of time just so they can do their job. So yeah, 8 section passes is a good rule of thumb. If you have to work in direct sunlight, then read my tips here,


Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight

[Mike Phillips]

I'm speechless now

Doesn't traditional wax exhibit poor water beading property compared to sealants, ceramic coating and SiO2 washes?

No.

Most waxes, any brand bead water really well, at least initially after application. Water beading falls off or lessens DEPENDING upon how you TOUCH the paint.

Touch = washing and wiping - anyway you TOUCH the paint.

Touch = micro-abrading - you ABRADE off the wax and water beading diminishes.

Wash your car with a brick and the wax won't last very long due to what's touching the paint.

Wash your car with multiple soft clean microfiber towels or mitts and use good technique and the wax will last longer and water beading will last longer.

Real simple stuff.

However, Wolfgang says otherwise.

Pardon my ignorance but is there a solution to the problem for wet climates and hard water to keep the factory paint in mint condition?

Use a ceramic paint coating and keep the car clean, this would mean frequent washing and when you wash do it carefully.

[NSM]

Mike,
Thanks for all of your helpful info on water stains. I recently purchsed a used 2011 BMW with Space Grey paint. The previous owner kept the car outside for most of it's life. The car has a lot of mirco etching water stains, definitely type II. My initial first attempt at paint correction was with a Flex XC 3401 using Lake Country Hydro Blue cutting pad and Meguiars 101 followed by Meg's 205 with Lake Country Hydro Tangerine pad. This took a good deal of the sting out of the etchings but, did not take all of the micro pitting out of the finish.
Would you recommend continued multiple passes with the combo I listed or would you recommend a slightly more aggressive pad/compound combo? I also have a rotary with a few whool pad options but, really want to use that as a last resort.
I'd greatly appreciate some direction/recommendation. I will try to snap some pictures and get them uploaded for reference this evening. THANKS!

[Mike Phillips]

Mike,

Thanks for all of your helpful info on water stains.

Welcome to AutogeekOnline!


In my opinion, the Type II water spots or what I call crater etchings, are the WORST type of paint defect to have to remove.

I recently purchsed a used 2011 BMW with Space Grey paint. The previous owner kept the car outside for most of it's life. The car has a lot of mirco etching water stains, definitely type II.

BMWs tend to have really nice paint jobs from the factory. So you have that working for you.

My initial first attempt at paint correction was with a

• Flex XC 3401
• Lake Country Hydro Blue cutting pad with Meguiars 101
• Meg's 205 with Lake Country Hydro Tangerine pad.

This took a good deal of the sting out of the etchings but, did not take all of the micro pitting out of the finish.

In my opinion, the above is a quality collection of tools, pads and products. The tool plus the combination of the pad and compound is a respectable combination a person could use for any type of paint defects.

Would you recommend continued multiple passes with the combo I listed or would you recommend a slightly more aggressive pad/compound combo?

You ask a very good question and I recently wrote an article that is 100% spot on for this topic. I'll include it in a follow-up reply. The BIG PICTURE is this,

Is this your daily driver?

Or is this you new-to-you special toy?

I also have a rotary with a few whool pad options but, really want to use that as a last resort.

Switching to a rotary buffer with a wool pad, using the same compound would be a the next level in getting aggressive.

Question: Are the water spots for the most part limited to the horizontal panels? In other words, are the vertical or side panels free from water spots?

I'd greatly appreciate some direction/recommendation.

See my next post...

I will try to snap some pictures and get them uploaded for reference this evening.

THANKS!

Easiest way to get a picture on the forum is to either "attach" it or get the TapaTalk App.


Link for TapaTalk for iPhone


Link for TapaTalk from Google Play

[Mike Phillips]

More...

Would you recommend continued multiple passes with the combo I listed or would you recommend a slightly more aggressive pad/compound combo?

I would first point out how thin the factory clearcoat is by sharing this article,

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips


Next, I would share this article and ask you to read through it,

When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?


After reading both of the above articles and thinking about the information presented, factor that information with how the BMW will spend most of it's life under your ownership and where you life.


Will it spend most of it's life under cover? Garage parked at home, undercover parking where you work?

Do you live in South Florida, Dallas, Texas, Arizona? or in North Dakota? Exposure to extreme sun and rain are hard on thin clearcoats.


Me?

Usually after I do an aggressive step like you performed, whatever defects or remnant's of defects are left in the paint.... I might choose to live with them, especially if the car in question is a daily driver.


If you really want a near-perfect finish, then hit the affected panels again with fresh, dry foam cutting pads and then call it "done". You can also try the wool pad/rotary approach, just be careful on edges, raised body lines.

And of course, re-polish after the compounding step and then the rest of the time you own the car, wash gently.