Most durable ceramic coating?

**392hemi** · 03-20-2019, 03:39 PM

Originally Posted by bryanviper

So I'm in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. I have tried 2 or 3 different ceramic coatings all which never last through our winters due to all the junk they put on the roads. I have done, cquartz UK, cquartz UK 3.0, Geyon Pure.

This spring im going to try Gtechniq, 1 layer of Crystal Serum Light + 2x layers of EXOv4. They are calling for a few years of durability but we will see.

Oh wow that's interesting. Did you try a wash with reload see if it was just bonded contaminats?

This is the reason I dont want to waste the time or effort on coatings. I dont have access to a hose and deal with a lot of stuff on the roads, especially winter.

Its easier for me to really just spot polish and apply my LSP or use any drying aid on my LSP and not worry about masking the properties of said LSP.

I of course have problems, so will probably be applying CQUK3.0 once I can do a full polish once warmer.

**nvestr** · 03-20-2019, 08:40 PM

Originally Posted by bryanviper

So I'm in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. I have tried 2 or 3 different ceramic coatings all which never last through our winters due to all the junk they put on the roads. I have done, cquartz UK, cquartz UK 3.0, Geyon Pure.

This spring im going to try Gtechniq, 1 layer of Crystal Serum Light + 2x layers of EXOv4. They are calling for a few years of durability but we will see.

I am located in Atlantic Canada - so much worse winter road conditions than Toronto and much more road salt, etc.

I did a CSL application on my brand new Volvo XC90 in December. I've noticed the water beading performance on the lower panels is not great compared to the hood, above the belt line, etc. I applied in my garage in December, in a high-humidity, relatively low temperature environment (around 13-15 degrees C) and left only 30 hours to cure after application. Vehicle was exposed to salt and slush about 30 hours after application.

At this point, I am not sure if the coating would have benefited from additional cure time, especially in the environment it was applied in and with what it was exposed to not long after. The other possibility is that the coating is contaminated somehow and this is affecting the hydrophobic properties - I have since decontaminated with Iron-X and CarPro Reset washes, etc. with no real improvement to the water properties on the lower panels.

I do wonder how differently the coating would behave if I had applied EXO on top.

I have another new vehicle arriving in May. With this one I will try a layer of CSL covered with 2x layers of EXOv4. I will let it to cure longer than 24 hours and obviously in May it will not be exposed to salt during the curing process.

**Trip** · 03-20-2019, 08:53 PM

Try out the Polish Angel Viking coat. I have noticed it Far exceeds durability than the CQuartz UK 3.0. I have a white truck with the Cquartz and it’s covered with deposits. Tried the Ironx and now going to have to clay. My lower door panels are like bar metal.I’m in Southern Ontario. They put a lot of salt and brine down in the roads here

**11B250** · 03-21-2019, 05:55 PM

Originally Posted by 392hemi

Oh wow that's interesting. Did you try a wash with reload see if it was just bonded contaminats?

This is the reason I dont want to waste the time or effort on coatings. I dont have access to a hose and deal with a lot of stuff on the roads, especially winter.

Its easier for me to really just spot polish and apply my LSP or use any drying aid on my LSP and not worry about masking the properties of said LSP.

I of course have problems, so will probably be applying CQUK3.0 once I can do a full polish once warmer.

You sound like me... LMAO

**fly07sti** · 03-21-2019, 07:39 PM

Originally Posted by ejaf

Fly,

Can you elaborate on this point? Right now, I use Hyperwash, but use Aquawax as a drying aid. Are you saying I shouldn't, because it's not allowing the "full effect/water show"?

Eric

Exactly. It’ll mask your coatings water behavior.

**bryanviper** · 03-21-2019, 07:49 PM

Yup tried carpro Reset, decon, even degreaser etc. While it helped slightly did not bring the beading back on the lower part of the doors which get hit the worst.

Originally Posted by 392hemi

Oh wow that's interesting. Did you try a wash with reload see if it was just bonded contaminats?

This is the reason I dont want to waste the time or effort on coatings. I dont have access to a hose and deal with a lot of stuff on the roads, especially winter.

Its easier for me to really just spot polish and apply my LSP or use any drying aid on my LSP and not worry about masking the properties of said LSP.

I of course have problems, so will probably be applying CQUK3.0 once I can do a full polish once warmer.

**bryanviper** · 03-21-2019, 07:51 PM

Interesting sounds like the same issue I have been having year after year lol. However I apply mine in the spring and top up using carpro reload so it has a few more months on it. In a few weeks once the weather gets better I will be using Gtecniq CSL + 2x layers of EVOv4. Hopefully this will make a big difference.

Originally Posted by nvestr

I am located in Atlantic Canada - so much worse winter road conditions than Toronto and much more road salt, etc.

I did a CSL application on my brand new Volvo XC90 in December. I've noticed the water beading performance on the lower panels is not great compared to the hood, above the belt line, etc. I applied in my garage in December, in a high-humidity, relatively low temperature environment (around 13-15 degrees C) and left only 30 hours to cure after application. Vehicle was exposed to salt and slush about 30 hours after application.

At this point, I am not sure if the coating would have benefited from additional cure time, especially in the environment it was applied in and with what it was exposed to not long after. The other possibility is that the coating is contaminated somehow and this is affecting the hydrophobic properties - I have since decontaminated with Iron-X and CarPro Reset washes, etc. with no real improvement to the water properties on the lower panels.

I do wonder how differently the coating would behave if I had applied EXO on top.

I have another new vehicle arriving in May. With this one I will try a layer of CSL covered with 2x layers of EXOv4. I will let it to cure longer than 24 hours and obviously in May it will not be exposed to salt during the curing process.

**SWETM** · 03-22-2019, 01:43 PM

I will still preach about testing a tar remover in harsh winter weather environment. And I would even say if they don't stand up to a tar remover monthly or so they are no real coatings.

Carpro CQUK is a popular coating here in Sweden. And on forums here I have not heard of any that has come shorter to 2 years. There are some that have company cars that they drive long distances. Those can miss the 2 year mark. Another one that you can see shorter longevity from is if you only do 1 layer of the CQUK. If you live in a harsh environment the second coat will not get you the double longevity from it. But say 6-12 months extra. And to stretch the longevity even more you could use Essence first with the Glosspad from Carpro and follow instructions how to do. And you get a harder bond to your coating and can be up to 6 months extra longevity. But mostly is how you take care of your car. Carpro and Gyeon and Gtechnic has been big in the DIY scene. And if you look at their products for maintance they are not cheap but you could look for other brand with the same function. That being said some products is hard to find outside of the coating companies. Take Blackfire for an example have had their coating out for a good while now. But only resently made a car soap that is more for the coating. Even Griots Garage that don't have a coating yet. Have come out with products you clean with that don't interfear with coatings.

It's not a problem generally speaking that you get a coating clogged. The protection is still there. And water behavior and self cleaning ability is just really a cosmetic thing as it's gets faster dirty and the gloss drops. I'm starting to think I will get a bug remover and see how effective those are on takeing tar and oil based and petroleum based dirt off a winter car here in Sweden. I honestly think that it's too gentle to handle tar spots that has been on for a while. But some road film it can be effective on. And this is cause different chemicals desolves different kind of dirt and contaminants. Will ad also that they are different in effectiveness too these different chemicals. They don't just take one specific dirt either just more effective on some than others and vice versa.

Read the description of Gtechnic W7 Tar and Glue remover. How they describe it's made to be a maintance product on their coatings.

GTechniq W7 Tar and Glue Remover

And even if not described on AGO the Carpro TarX and Gyeon Tar is also ceramic coating safe. Work in small sections in the beginning so you don't get these to dry on the paint and you will be fine. And also rinse them off thoroughly. Sometimes if much of the kind of dirt these desolves you could be needed to reapplication them 1-2 times. Just think of all of that rubber residue when tires wears. That's get on the roads and can be mixed and desolved with other dirt and liquids. And sprayed up from the tires and the wind flow on the back of the car.