Cquartz uk cure then gliss

[BudgetPlan1]

What you can do is start a timer as you begin and as it approaches 1 hour stop at your current panel and repeat the same ones you did at first. Then do the rest of the car which should take less than 1 hour and repeat those panels. Helps you get the 2 coats down without having to wait overnight. If you have time do gliss after 4 hours, if not do that one next day. I find that layering coatings works better if you do while they’re not far along the curing process and you get more out of it. If they are too cured they reject the new coat (depends on what you’re using) and most of that new coat gets wiped away.

Pretty much how I did it when I wanted to finish 2 layers of Cquartz UK 3 and 1 layer of Gliss V2 in a single day. Was a new F250 Super Duty pickup, broke into cab-forward and cab-back sections, each of which I could cover with the UK in about 45 minutes.

1st layer on 'cab forward' took about 45 minutes, then did 2nd layer. Same deal for the 'cab back' section. By the time I was with the 2nd layer on the back section, waited about 3hrs and then did the entire thing with the Gliss. Came out very nice, good stuff.

[mrmarkmac]

What you can do is start a timer as you begin and as it approaches 1 hour stop at your current panel and repeat the same ones you did at first. Then do the rest of the car which should take less than 1 hour and repeat those panels. Helps you get the 2 coats down without having to wait overnight. If you have time do gliss after 4 hours, if not do that one next day. I find that layering coatings works better if you do while they’re not far along the curing process and you get more out of it. If they are too cured they reject the new coat (depends on what you’re using) and most of that new coat gets wiped away.

Because it was my first time using CQ, I started pretty slow. My 45 min alarm went off after the trunk and first rear corner panel. So I just went back and re-did them. After that I picked up sped but basically broke the car up in 4 sections and did second coat before starting the next.

I was really impressed with Eraser doing two pre-wipe downs before CQ. Caught a couple small patches of polish that just wiped right off.

Pretty much how I did it when I wanted to finish 2 layers of Cquartz UK 3 and 1 layer of Gliss V2 in a single day. Was a new F250 Super Duty pickup, broke into cab-forward and cab-back sections, each of which I could cover with the UK in about 45 minutes.

1st layer on 'cab forward' took about 45 minutes, then did 2nd layer. Same deal for the 'cab back' section. By the time I was with the 2nd layer on the back section, waited about 3hrs and then did the entire thing with the Gliss. Came out very nice, good stuff.

GLISS is good stuff. I was amazed at how much more slick it felt after my first test area. Dragging the MF across GLISS vs just CQ was a huge difference. Even buffing it off seemed so slick.

My only negative about Gliss was how hard it is to see flash. I tried leaving it for 30 sec, 1 min, 2 min and probably a little more, and each time I couldn't see much, if any white reside, but it just wiped right off. My fear is I missed some somewhere.

I now understand why Carpro suggest great ambient light and not spot lighting. I wish I had better lighting for the sides of the car. Trunk, roof and hood were all easy to pickup high spots. What I found worked best on the sides was to setup a shop light at one end of the car, and look at the side of the car with the shop light behind me. I even turned off all the lights and used a high power flash light that highlighted a few high spots because there was no other light source to camouflage it.

Long two days but so worth it. In the end I did the following on a virtually brand new car;

Spray down, foam cannon wash, spray down.
MF Mitt wash and spray down
IronX, then MF Mitt wash, foam cannon, spray down
Dry
Clay
Tape trim
Polish with 205
2 x Eraser wipe down
2 X CQuarts UK 3.0
Gliss

Now I need to do wheels and trim with DLUX, and leather coatings next weekend. Hopefully its just easy street for the next year with Reset washes.

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

[SWETM]

Because it was my first time using CQ, I started pretty slow. My 45 min alarm went off after the trunk and first rear corner panel. So I just went back and re-did them. After that I picked up sped but basically broke the car up in 4 sections and did second coat before starting the next.

I was really impressed with Eraser doing two pre-wipe downs before CQ. Caught a couple small patches of polish that just wiped right off.



GLISS is good stuff. I was amazed at how much more slick it felt after my first test area. Dragging the MF across GLISS vs just CQ was a huge difference. Even buffing it off seemed so slick.

My only negative about Gliss was how hard it is to see flash. I tried leaving it for 30 sec, 1 min, 2 min and probably a little more, and each time I couldn't see much, if any white reside, but it just wiped right off. My fear is I missed some somewhere.

I now understand why Carpro suggest great ambient light and not spot lighting. I wish I had better lighting for the sides of the car. Trunk, roof and hood were all easy to pickup high spots. What I found worked best on the sides was to setup a shop light at one end of the car, and look at the side of the car with the shop light behind me. I even turned off all the lights and used a high power flash light that highlighted a few high spots because there was no other light source to camouflage it.

Long two days but so worth it. In the end I did the following on a virtually brand new car;

Spray down, foam cannon wash, spray down.
MF Mitt wash and spray down
IronX, then MF Mitt wash, foam cannon, spray down
Dry
Clay
Tape trim
Polish with 205
2 x Eraser wipe down
2 X CQuarts UK 3.0
Gliss

Now I need to do wheels and trim with DLUX, and leather coatings next weekend. Hopefully its just easy street for the next year with Reset washes.

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

Cut the coating applicator to fit in the honeycomb grill with a cut up suede applicator towel on it. And the same process when wipe it off or level it. Could maybe work?

[Bruno Soares]

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

I used a Poly-Foam Tipped Swab. Not finding many options (if any) at Autogeek. I got mine elsewhere.

[Eldorado2k]

Anyone have suggestions for how to coat a honeycomb plastic grill with DLUX? I may just do Gliss given how easy it was to wipe, as they honeycombs are only big enough to put one finger in. They are the one spot where water and dirt settle after a wash and always seemed to leave a little residue. Would love to have them slick so water can just be blown out after wash.

Reading this has finally given me a good reason to look into buying an SiO2 spray on hose off coating.

Normally what I do is hit those grills with a boars hair brush dipped in plenty of suds at the end of a wash, then finish off the rinse at the grill and immediately blow dry the grill 1st in order to help prevent any spotting, but something like McKee’s Hydro Blue should make a big difference or what do you guys think?

[mrmarkmac]

Reading this has finally given me a good reason to look into buying an SiO2 spray on hose off coating.

Normally what I do is hit those grills with a boars hair brush dipped in plenty of suds at the end of a wash, then finish off the rinse at the grill and immediately blow dry the grill 1st in order to help prevent any spotting, but something like McKee’s Hydro Blue should make a big difference or what do you guys think?

Actually maybe I just tape off the area and hit it with reload. Then use reload at end of each wash on grill only.

[Eldorado2k]

Actually maybe I just tape off the area and hit it with reload. Then use reload at end of each wash on grill only.

That sounds like alot of work. Just imagine trying to wipe in reload on this grill after every wash. Lol.



I’d rather just spray and blow dry.

[mrmarkmac]

I was thinking of just spraying reload to properly apply. Easier than applying by hand with DLUX. Then whenever I wash just spray on grill when wet as a drying agent.

I have an upper and lower Grill with as many holes but smaller. That’s why I’m trying to figure out how to easily do it and avoid any significant maintenance for a while.

[Eldorado2k]

I was thinking of just spraying reload to properly apply. Easier than applying by hand with DLUX. Then whenever I wash just spray on grill when wet as a drying agent.

I have an upper and lower Grill with as many holes but smaller. That’s why I’m trying to figure out how to easily do it and avoid any significant maintenance for a while.

Have you tried Reload before?

If you spray Reload as a drying aid after every wash you’ll still have to reach your finger into every nook & cranny of the grill. That’s pretty tedious.

[mrmarkmac]

No, never tried it but now that you describe the process I won’t be for this purpose. I thought it may be an easier application than CQ or DLUX because you spray it.